issues starting sometimes
jangell
06-27-2004, 02:58 AM
I recently purchased a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. It's got the 2.2L I beleive. It has about 70,000 miles on it and is a very good runner and solid car other then the one issue I'm having.
50% of the time when I attempt to start the car it takes about 4 seconds before it starts. The other 40% it starts normally.. And about 10% of the time it takes either about 10 seconds of cranking or two or three short bursts (of cranking). If i hit the gas just right, it seems that it may help doing so... But doesn't completely fix it.
Any ideas what I should check / replace ... to fix this. I plan on isntalling an alarm and remote start soon, and I want this issue to be fixed before I do so.
50% of the time when I attempt to start the car it takes about 4 seconds before it starts. The other 40% it starts normally.. And about 10% of the time it takes either about 10 seconds of cranking or two or three short bursts (of cranking). If i hit the gas just right, it seems that it may help doing so... But doesn't completely fix it.
Any ideas what I should check / replace ... to fix this. I plan on isntalling an alarm and remote start soon, and I want this issue to be fixed before I do so.
jmoneydtb
06-27-2004, 01:57 PM
more than likely its the starter...my 95 did the same thing for a while and i actually had to tap on the starter sometimes to get it to crank...but then i got it replaced a little less than a year ago. but now this one is doing it again...but it was just a rebuilt starter so...but they still seem to be a bitch.
jangell
06-27-2004, 03:10 PM
I don't think that it is the starter. Because like I said, it is infact cranking.
hopeless4life
06-27-2004, 09:11 PM
First I need to know, for the about 4 seconds it take the engine to start, is the engine cold or hasn't be running for quite a bit? For the 40% it starts normally is the engine hot or warm? And when it takes 10 sec to start is it cold, or has it just been driven? Also when you depress the gas pedal to the floor after you've cranked it a couple of times does it start normally?
pjgeisler
06-28-2004, 01:28 PM
I have been experiencing similar problems for about a week. When I turn the key (with clutch pedal depressed, obviously), the car will not start. If I hold the ignition in the start position for a 2-5 seconds it may start. Often times it takes multiple tries to get the car started. Sometimes the car will begin to start when doing this, and stop...almost like there is a loose wire to the starter. I am going to check all electrical connections tonight. The other issue that just happened this morning was that the clutch pedal is mushy and engages/disengages much lower to the floor board. I got the feeling that maybe the electrical has to do with the clutch not being fully in the "depressed" position enough to allow the ignition. Is there an easy way on a 1996 2.2L to adjust the clutch pedal?
BleedDodge
06-28-2004, 02:03 PM
It's probably just the throttle position sensor or the idle air control valve. I would just change both at once, they're cheap and take minutes to change. These cars are fuel injected so whether or not you touch the gas pedal at all when cranking makes no difference. The computer tells the motor how much fuel it needs based on the readings from the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve.
jangell
06-29-2004, 01:31 PM
One thing I noticed is that if I turn the ignition on and leave it on for about 60 seconds before I try to start it.. It starts fine...
any ideas?
any ideas?
SunChief
06-30-2004, 10:42 PM
I'm not totally sure about this...but couldn't it happen if some plugs were misfiring? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. :2cents:
ponchonutty
07-02-2004, 07:00 AM
One thing I noticed is that if I turn the ignition on and leave it on for about 60 seconds before I try to start it.. It starts fine...
any ideas?
Sounds like it could be the fuel pump. See, when you first start your car, the fuel pump has to give out a bigger shot of fuel. So, if it can't and you wait for a while after you turn on the ignition before you crank it could be a good indication. One thing though is to pay attention to your anti-theft. It can also do what you are saying. Make sure it is not on or blinking when starting or driving.
any ideas?
Sounds like it could be the fuel pump. See, when you first start your car, the fuel pump has to give out a bigger shot of fuel. So, if it can't and you wait for a while after you turn on the ignition before you crank it could be a good indication. One thing though is to pay attention to your anti-theft. It can also do what you are saying. Make sure it is not on or blinking when starting or driving.
hopeless4life
07-03-2004, 08:06 PM
There is a recall on the starter wiring. But it seems like a common problem, it almost to me sounds like the car is flooding itself slightly, just enough that it won't start quickly.
jangell
07-03-2004, 10:20 PM
Any chance that it could be the fuel filter?
me06521
07-13-2004, 02:24 AM
like hopeless said there is a recall out on the starter thermal events... you should probably go out and get that fixed seeing as though it is most likely free anyways... i got that done cuz i didnt really feel like risking my transpo lighting on fire :p
sunfire2.2
07-13-2004, 03:37 AM
I have been experiencing similar problems for about a week. When I turn the key (with clutch pedal depressed, obviously), the car will not start. If I hold the ignition in the start position for a 2-5 seconds it may start. Often times it takes multiple tries to get the car started. Sometimes the car will begin to start when doing this, and stop...almost like there is a loose wire to the starter. I am going to check all electrical connections tonight. The other issue that just happened this morning was that the clutch pedal is mushy and engages/disengages much lower to the floor board. I got the feeling that maybe the electrical has to do with the clutch not being fully in the "depressed" position enough to allow the ignition. Is there an easy way on a 1996 2.2L to adjust the clutch pedal?
Check your saftey switch on your clutch. When the clutch is fully depressed, there is a switch that it hits near the floor, if you are pressing the clutch down and the starter isn't even moving and a few seconds later it goes, it is possibly that. What you can do to save some cash, is pull the wiring clip out of the switch, use a paperclip or a chunk of wire, stick it in both ends of the clip and wrap it with electrical tape. I actually used a paperclip for 2 years and my car had to be saftied because i moved so i had to put a new saftey switch on. Just remember that now your car can start without you pushing the clutch in, so if it is in gear, you don't have the clutch pushed in and you start the car, it will jump forward because you will be starting it in gear!
Check your saftey switch on your clutch. When the clutch is fully depressed, there is a switch that it hits near the floor, if you are pressing the clutch down and the starter isn't even moving and a few seconds later it goes, it is possibly that. What you can do to save some cash, is pull the wiring clip out of the switch, use a paperclip or a chunk of wire, stick it in both ends of the clip and wrap it with electrical tape. I actually used a paperclip for 2 years and my car had to be saftied because i moved so i had to put a new saftey switch on. Just remember that now your car can start without you pushing the clutch in, so if it is in gear, you don't have the clutch pushed in and you start the car, it will jump forward because you will be starting it in gear!
sunfire2.2
07-13-2004, 03:50 AM
I have been experiencing similar problems for about a week. When I turn the key (with clutch pedal depressed, obviously), the car will not start. If I hold the ignition in the start position for a 2-5 seconds it may start. Often times it takes multiple tries to get the car started. Sometimes the car will begin to start when doing this, and stop...almost like there is a loose wire to the starter. I am going to check all electrical connections tonight. The other issue that just happened this morning was that the clutch pedal is mushy and engages/disengages much lower to the floor board. I got the feeling that maybe the electrical has to do with the clutch not being fully in the "depressed" position enough to allow the ignition. Is there an easy way on a 1996 2.2L to adjust the clutch pedal?
In regards to the clutch being mushy, you can bleed the clutch and it will self adjust. Check your resevoir first, make sure you have a bottle of dot3 brake fluid. You will also need a 10 mm wrench. There is a small valve sticking out near the engine fan area, not that close, but in that area. It runs paralell to the prop rod for your hood again, not close to the prop rod, but parralell in that direction. What you want to do is top up the resevoir, leave the cap off, get a friend to press the clutch to the floor and hold it, then you losen off the valve and fluid will shoot out along with air that might be trapped in the system. Keep the pedal to the floor as you tighten the valve. Your friend can release the pedal and may need to pull it back up with their foot, this is normal because you are releasing the air out of the system and the clutch will need to readjust. Then do this 3 to 5 more times. Don't let the resevoir run dry or you will let air back into the system. You may not notice the difference even after 5 times, but if you take the car for a ride, you will notice a difference right soon. You probably have a leak somewhere in the system and you should get it checked. If the clutch is not enguaging and disenguaging properly, it can be hard on the clutch and the gearbox. If you can't find the relaease valve, ask a local garage, they might be willing to give a little free advice.
In regards to the clutch being mushy, you can bleed the clutch and it will self adjust. Check your resevoir first, make sure you have a bottle of dot3 brake fluid. You will also need a 10 mm wrench. There is a small valve sticking out near the engine fan area, not that close, but in that area. It runs paralell to the prop rod for your hood again, not close to the prop rod, but parralell in that direction. What you want to do is top up the resevoir, leave the cap off, get a friend to press the clutch to the floor and hold it, then you losen off the valve and fluid will shoot out along with air that might be trapped in the system. Keep the pedal to the floor as you tighten the valve. Your friend can release the pedal and may need to pull it back up with their foot, this is normal because you are releasing the air out of the system and the clutch will need to readjust. Then do this 3 to 5 more times. Don't let the resevoir run dry or you will let air back into the system. You may not notice the difference even after 5 times, but if you take the car for a ride, you will notice a difference right soon. You probably have a leak somewhere in the system and you should get it checked. If the clutch is not enguaging and disenguaging properly, it can be hard on the clutch and the gearbox. If you can't find the relaease valve, ask a local garage, they might be willing to give a little free advice.
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