Turbo Cost ?
5th Gen. Accord
01-25-2002, 09:50 PM
How much would it be to get a turbo and get it istalled with all the required components for a stock accord. and how much HP will it give. Can you get a used one for a junk yard or anything?
super 96 accord
01-26-2002, 05:10 PM
I have a 96 and I'm putting in a 97 JDM H22A w/a custom turbo and my guy said it'll be over 300HP easy. The turbo setup is costing 4K installed.
ACCORDLVR
02-03-2002, 04:57 AM
i think he was asking about a turbo kit for one of the f22 motors.
hell of a ?, i've never seen a kit for one. sure turbonetics can hook you up with one w/ a custom exhast manifold. good luck!
b.t.w.-to all the numbnuts who swear the f22 has no potential::flipa:
hell of a ?, i've never seen a kit for one. sure turbonetics can hook you up with one w/ a custom exhast manifold. good luck!
b.t.w.-to all the numbnuts who swear the f22 has no potential::flipa:
joe holeshue
02-11-2002, 08:18 PM
go to the junk yard there are many cars that you can pull a turbo off of
my choice would be the volvo it has a garrett t3 turbo whith internal waste gate probably the same turbo that you'll get in and turbo package if not better.well it's alot better it'l only cost you 35 bucks.hardware store for the rest or the stuff
ebay for blow off vave and( intercooler if you can't find a good one in the junkyard)
me and a few of my friends have this setup and nothing can beat the price for an extra7-25lbs of boost
total cost will be around 500 with boost gauge an extra 200 for install if you can't do it youself
my choice would be the volvo it has a garrett t3 turbo whith internal waste gate probably the same turbo that you'll get in and turbo package if not better.well it's alot better it'l only cost you 35 bucks.hardware store for the rest or the stuff
ebay for blow off vave and( intercooler if you can't find a good one in the junkyard)
me and a few of my friends have this setup and nothing can beat the price for an extra7-25lbs of boost
total cost will be around 500 with boost gauge an extra 200 for install if you can't do it youself
drift
02-11-2002, 09:03 PM
i just did mine up... ended up buying a revhard manifold instead of making one... saves you a lot of heartache that way.
mine was on an H22A tho. used a Garrett T3 from a Saab. the turbo has been completely rebuilt and rebalanced.
probably going to upgrade my compressor to a .60 A/R trim setup to flow more air... it gets a bit shortwinded at 6000rpm tho. the setup i have would be about perfect for an F22.
if you need a parts list, follow along:
Garrett T3 turbo with at least a .45 A/R compressor trim, swing valve assembly, and actuator. these can easily be found on 80's Saabs and Volvos. i prefer to stay oil cooled only for an easier install, and prefer to stay away from Ford turbos... they are T3, but their housings are different and make for a pain in the butt on install. if you buy used, tear it down, inspect it, then rebuild it. not worth putting a worn turbo on and blow a bunch of smoke. Garrett T3's are the most common, most copied, turbo in the OEM. all turbo rebuilders can work with it, and the parts for it are the cheapest due to it's popularity. from .30A/R trims to .60 A/R trims, the compressor is designed for fast spoolup and is able to flow as much or as little as you need it to.
Manifold... either buy one or build one. the former is simpler for $400 or so, the latter will cost a lot unless you do it yourself or have friends. make sure it will position the turbo properly so it fits between the radiator and block if you have it made or make it.
Mandrel bent tubing. 2.25"-2.5" should be fine for intake piping. just cut them at the angles needed then either weld them together to fit, or use silicone hose and clamps to keep it together.
Downpipe. to connect from turbo outlet to cat converter. either make your own with mandrel bent pipe at 2.25" and a flex tube, or have someone make one to fit. you cannot buy a downpipe for your application, as most are designed for external wastegate and/or a different turbo exhaust housing.
Fuel Management Unit. the easiest to get you rolling would be the Vortech or Cartech FMU. it's a simple boost dependant fuel pressure riser. you just hook it up inline witht he fuel return, after the fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel pump. you'll need it to flow enough fuel at the rail pressures you'll be running.
Various NPT fittings. the most important will be a "T" fitting to tap the oil feed line into. just tap into the oil pressure switch, located in the back of the block, next to the oil filter. another fitting will also be used to tap into the oil pan for the oil return line from the turbo.
Various hoses and clamps. not only silicone to join piping together, but also some fuel line and oil lines as described above.
Boost and A/F meters. you need to know how much you're boosting to stay within limits,a nd you need the A/F meter to ensure you're running the right mix.
Intercooler. this part is optional, but it increases performance and prevents detonation by cooling the intake charge air.
Air filter. get a cone style that fits the turbo compressor inlet.
Blow off valve. keeps the air pressure from spiking within the piping when the throttlebody is suddenly closed. the pressure spike usually reverses and causes the turbo wheels to backspin, causing excessive wear on the turbine shaft and bearings. the blow off valve will sense the spike, and pop open to vent off the excess pressure, extending the life on your turbine.
if you're not very handy or creative, it's best you dont bother trying to do this... or get someone else to do it for you.
mine was on an H22A tho. used a Garrett T3 from a Saab. the turbo has been completely rebuilt and rebalanced.
probably going to upgrade my compressor to a .60 A/R trim setup to flow more air... it gets a bit shortwinded at 6000rpm tho. the setup i have would be about perfect for an F22.
if you need a parts list, follow along:
Garrett T3 turbo with at least a .45 A/R compressor trim, swing valve assembly, and actuator. these can easily be found on 80's Saabs and Volvos. i prefer to stay oil cooled only for an easier install, and prefer to stay away from Ford turbos... they are T3, but their housings are different and make for a pain in the butt on install. if you buy used, tear it down, inspect it, then rebuild it. not worth putting a worn turbo on and blow a bunch of smoke. Garrett T3's are the most common, most copied, turbo in the OEM. all turbo rebuilders can work with it, and the parts for it are the cheapest due to it's popularity. from .30A/R trims to .60 A/R trims, the compressor is designed for fast spoolup and is able to flow as much or as little as you need it to.
Manifold... either buy one or build one. the former is simpler for $400 or so, the latter will cost a lot unless you do it yourself or have friends. make sure it will position the turbo properly so it fits between the radiator and block if you have it made or make it.
Mandrel bent tubing. 2.25"-2.5" should be fine for intake piping. just cut them at the angles needed then either weld them together to fit, or use silicone hose and clamps to keep it together.
Downpipe. to connect from turbo outlet to cat converter. either make your own with mandrel bent pipe at 2.25" and a flex tube, or have someone make one to fit. you cannot buy a downpipe for your application, as most are designed for external wastegate and/or a different turbo exhaust housing.
Fuel Management Unit. the easiest to get you rolling would be the Vortech or Cartech FMU. it's a simple boost dependant fuel pressure riser. you just hook it up inline witht he fuel return, after the fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel pump. you'll need it to flow enough fuel at the rail pressures you'll be running.
Various NPT fittings. the most important will be a "T" fitting to tap the oil feed line into. just tap into the oil pressure switch, located in the back of the block, next to the oil filter. another fitting will also be used to tap into the oil pan for the oil return line from the turbo.
Various hoses and clamps. not only silicone to join piping together, but also some fuel line and oil lines as described above.
Boost and A/F meters. you need to know how much you're boosting to stay within limits,a nd you need the A/F meter to ensure you're running the right mix.
Intercooler. this part is optional, but it increases performance and prevents detonation by cooling the intake charge air.
Air filter. get a cone style that fits the turbo compressor inlet.
Blow off valve. keeps the air pressure from spiking within the piping when the throttlebody is suddenly closed. the pressure spike usually reverses and causes the turbo wheels to backspin, causing excessive wear on the turbine shaft and bearings. the blow off valve will sense the spike, and pop open to vent off the excess pressure, extending the life on your turbine.
if you're not very handy or creative, it's best you dont bother trying to do this... or get someone else to do it for you.
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