Hp to stock components.

Ok, can I put 542hp and 444 foot lbs of torque to stock crank, rods, and block? Is it too risky? I'm looking at Vic Jr. heads/intake, 650cfm Speed Demon, 10:1 Trick Flow pistons, .547/.595 286/298 adv 236/248 @.050 trick Flow cam, Comp 1.6 Pro RR's, Ford Racing hydro roller lifters, and possibly an Edelbrock Performer RPM Nitrous kit running about 100hp shot (100-250 adjustable). Will this total a stock block and bottom end? I really dont want to have to buy a $500 crank and $500 rods with a $1k+ block.

I think stock blocks crack at around 450-500 horsepower, IIRC. It may live to 550 with a stud girdle,blueprinting and a really good balance.

If I was you I'd visit dss racing's website, it's pretty much THE place to start looking for shortblocks.

I would seriously consider a sportsman, Boss, or R block for your intentions.

HOLY CRAP. what are you thinking! of course you cant have stock rods and what not. With that much power on tap, the internals are gona disintegrate! Ok if you keep the block, but you MUST upgrade the internals. Or else please keep it running under 4500 rpm!

I've seen 650+ horsepower on a stock block with a stock crankshaft with stock rods and spinning the motor to 7,000 w/o a rev limiter (sounds safe eh?). The car's had that set-up for about a year and it's running fine. Then again, it has a stud girdle, it's been blueprinted and put together by a Mustang genius. To be honest, I think you really have to go on a case by case basis. I know one guy who was building a 347 stroker, and the day after he built it, the crankshaft snapped at the damper. Putting together a 347 is not like putting together a 302. Most 347 kits come with at least 5140 crankshafts, and it only lasted one day. Here's one guy, running stock internals (except for pistons) with 650 horsepower no problem, another guy puts together a high end 347 and snaps the crank by day 2. What I mean is it really depends on how the motor is put together, and whether or not the actual castings you will be using are up to the task. The block by the way SHOULD be okay at that power level. In any case, I don't think you need to step up to the R302 block, a sportsman block should be good enough and it's only about half the cost of the R302. By the way, how did you come up with such an exact horsepower figure? Is the engine already assembled or is it a Desktop Dyno guess?

Desktop Dyno guess figured in with a half dozen or so professional opinions.

Stud girdles or main supports?

Stud girdles or main supports?

They are the same thing. All they are going to do is reduce the risk of losing your rotating assembly not if, but when the block splits.

You didnt say just what engine you are talking about, so I'll assume an '87-93 5.0. Yes the engine will take it, but not for long. The weak point is the block; the pistons, rods, and crank will hold enough for the block to split. The sportsman blocks are just older style 302 blocks with a little more iron, but they arent really much stonger. They used to be rated at 600hp, but Ford Motorsport reduced that to 400 because they frequently cracked below 600.

Your other option is a 408W stroker. Properly built you wont even need nitrous to hit 544hp. You might get close to that at the wheels.

The 542hp is naturally aspirated fly wheel hp. I'm assuming I'll put somewhere around 420hp-430hp on the ground with a C-4. The nitrous is just a little extra kick to make sure I hit 10's in the 1/4. I'm not sure yet if I want to run nitrous or not. But yes using a 87-93 5.0 block bored .030 to a 306. But, if I have to buy a crank and rods I may stroke it on out to a 331. I have thought about a 347 but I want better oil control and a taller piston for less ware, which I can get from a 331, and still gain a little more torque.

Jeez, even out of a 331 you'll be hard pressed to get that kind of power. If you're going to be putting more money into a stroker with your block-splitting power goals, I would consider an R302 or Dart.