clutch replacement and tappets

hi to all of you
am new here and just wanna get started with some questions
my clutch pedal is becoming heavier day by day and the the dealer has told me to change the clutch
am just asking what are they going to do with it?
are there any websites where they explain how to replace the clutch?
can u please help me out!

also, when starting the car in the morning, there is that "tick - tick - tick" noise. i think its the tappet... how to stop that noise?
is it harmful to the car?

thanks to all of you
amrish

The BMW 5 Series Service Manual 1989-95: 525i, 530i, 535i, 540i Including Touring By Robert Bentley explains how to change the clutch and is a good manual for most servicing.

My clutch was heavy but the failure of the thrust bearing finally made the change necessary. Make sure it's nothing silly like the return spring behind the pedal.

I have 1991 525i (m50 engine 24v) and was able to change the clutch without too much of a problem. Some of the bolts are difficult to reach. Borrow your friends socket set extensions so that you can reach from the back of the gearbox to the front for those at the top.

Tools:
You will need torx sockets for the gearbox bolts.
Clutch alignment/pilot tool and the usual selection of metric spanners, sockets, and Torque wrench....

You will need to raise the car and support on stands; you may need to rotate the rear wheels to get access to the prop shaft bolts.


The procedure involves the following: -

1 Remove the exhaust and heat shield to gain access to the prop shaft. (Can be done in one piece) take care to disconnect the oxygen sensor.

2 Disconnect the prop shaft flexi-disc from the transmission unbolting the centre prop shaft bearing to remove the shaft from gearbox.

3 Disconnect shifter rod and remove the gear stick. The ball of the gear stick is held in place by a plastic retaining ring. Turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn to release. (There is a special tool for this but I could turn mine by pushing with a screwdriver).

4 Unbolt clutch slave cylinder and support with stiff wire (don't remove the hose).

7. Support transmission with a jack and unbolt the rear cross support. Lower transmission until the engine rests on the cross member.
NOTE: For M50 ENGIN put a piece of wood between the front stabilizer and the engine before lowering the engine/gearbox.

8. Remove transmission to engine bolts and slide transmission off the engine. Care is needed so as not to put any load on the transmission input shaft and the transmission is normally a tight fit onto the engine, held by two alignment dowels.

Notes:

The clutch pressure plate bolts need to be removed and fitted evenly in stages so as not to distort the pressure plate. USE NEW BOLTS!

The centre prop shaft bearing is pre-loaded 4-6mm towards the front of the car so mark the position of the centre bearing bracket so as to fit back in the same position.

The clutch plate is marked engine side and transmission side. It must be fitted the right way around. The pressure plate must be aligned with the guide pins on the flywheel. Use a centring tool to align the clutch plate.

Torque bolts to the correct settings.


The above instructions are not intended to enable you to change the clutch but to give you an idea what is involved.

At present, my gearbox is out again due to a fault with the gearbox, driver (ME) or both. I managed to get the gear selector into neutral but leave first gear selected! So care when changing from 1st to reverse, make sure to return the stick straight back too neutral before pushing to the left!

Has anyone else managed to get stuck in 1st gear?

hi
thanks for the valuable information
am planning to send the car for clutch replacement the the week-end or next week
the tappet noise too has to be solved
how much can new tappets cost?
because the garage man says that hydraulic tappets is difficult to adjust or something like this

cheers
thanks
amrish

Good idea, if you have not changed a clutch before. Yes the M50 engine has hydraulic cam followers, these are self adjusting so if they are the cause of the tapping noise they would need to be replaced! If the tapping stops soon after the engine is started it should not be a problem.

According to the Bentley manual it is possible to check the cam followers without removing them. This requires wanming up the engine, removal of the top engin covers ignition coils and cylinder head covers and pushing down the followers with a plastic/wooden stick. It says if there is any noticeable clearence. It does not quantify this but I would not expect more than a few thou.

how often do you drive the car and what type of oil are you running?
they are hydrolic and there is no adjustment for them dont try and remove the cam by losing the caps the cam is halow and will break. reving the engine up may pump up the lifters but if they are still colapsing the next morning then they will need to be replaced