How To:Door Molding/Badging Removal

I am buying a 2000 Silverado Pickup and I am deciding to take off the door moldings. Is it easy to do or is it a complete mess underneath them? If it is a big mess, tell me some ways to avoid it. Thanks.

It's actually very simple...Use a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive underneath the moldings....then using fishing line or a plastic scraper get to where you can pull up a corner of the molding....then just use your hands to gently pull it away from the truck itself...any adhesive left just use a citrus based glue remover like Goo Gone.....don't use goof off. Just take your time because the adhesive is strong.

Thanks for the information regarding the moldings TxNitro. I guess after they have been on the truck awhile, it makes it harder to get that goo off. Oh well. After about an hour and two blisters later, I finally got the goo off. I believe it would be a good idea to make these topics accessible fast and easy. I know in the near future, I will be needing more how-tos. Thanks again.

Guys this is just a split thread if you have any more details or in depth info from exp. just post it up here.

Thanks
John

If you want to remove the emblem...try a piece of either nylon or thick kit string. Take a piece about 18" and tie both ends to some wooded doll then place the string behind the emblem and work it back and forth..the string will get hot and cut through the adhesive.

Then use your goof off....etc

You could also use a fine wire from you mig welder if you are careful.

I actually know that kite is the proper spelling and is it goo off or goo gone?

I know for a fact that peanut butter works great for getting the bumper sticker glue off....that molding adhesive is a little tougher

I thought I saw on another post that you want to use Goo Gone, not Goo Off. It said Goo Off was bad stuff for the paint.

Don't use a blowdryer...you will be there all day. Spend the 20 bucks and get a heat gun. That will make a world of a difference. Make sure, however, to keep your hand moving back and forth so not to affect the paint. Also, for the sticky stuff, use Goof Off and a terry cloth...that takes anything off (except for your paint job).

a blow dryer does take a while.. but i did it.. it took a long time to do it but i used the same stuff one of those truck magazines used and it works although a lil slow it worked it was denatured alcohol to get the glue off at the time i want sure about the glue removers witht he paint and all.. just took a lil elbow grease but i got it.. not a tough project though anyone should be able to do it..
Chris

Goo gone is a citrus base solvent for labels etc. it will not harm your paint. Goof-off on the other hand is a weak paint remover which painters use to get goof's off. I would not use it on my vehicle finish.
Tim

I have always used Zaino gloss enhancer to remove the glue/gunk left from the adhesive

Heat gun? Hair dryer? I just set my dad's truck out in the sun when it was upwards of 90 degrees, and waited for the metal to get warm. Once the metal is warm, a dab of diesel fuel and a popsticle stick. Came off in under 5 minutes, and I then removed the goo with orange-glo. Worked great, and the paint isn't harmed(you would really notice too, because its black). His 2000 2500 now looks a lot better with zero badges, and those cool factory fender flares. No one be scared of badge removal, its easy(I'm only 15).

Want to sell the fender flares? Let me know.
Thanks, Tim

I wouldn't recommend Goo Gone. I tried it last night, and it left some minor scratches in the paint. I used Maguire's Swirl Remover which made it look like new again, but I don't think Goo Gone is a good idea. Just my .02 cents.

I cant beleive the goo gone was responsible for the scratches. its simply a liquid, no abrasives. Perhaps there was crud in the rag you were rubbing with, who knows, but I doubt it was the goo gone.
Tim

How about bug & tar remover?

I did mine when it was 90+ outside. All I did was have my friend pull slowly on the molding, and I made sure the glue came off. Then we used 3M adhesive remover. I think we used bug and tar remover too. Then just wash it. When it gets dirty it will show up a couple of times, but after that your good.

Removed my Silverado & Chevrolet badges from my tailgate yesterday. I really have to say it looks a lot smoother, I also have to say that tape is a real pain in my ass! Bug & Tar remover wasnt working so good. The tape always wanted to stay on the truck, heat didnt work, neither did fishing line. I ended up using a plastic spatula and my fingers, but after that the residue was still there. It took about half an hour of solid scrubbing with the B&T remover....After going through those two little badges, I dont know if I want to remove the BSM anymore...

All suggestions work fine, but if you want to get the adhesive off without damaging the paint and your fingers, try using a "wheel eraser". It's basically pencil eraser material formed in a wheel with an arbor. It can be used on a air grinder or a drill. I use mine on a cordless drill. 3M makes one (probably invented it), but I got a brand X at a local paint shop for under $15. I have de-badged a number of S-10's for my son and his friends with little effort. The glue just rolls off. I then just go over it with polish/wax. I haven't tried string to cut through the adhesives. I'll try next time. I usually use bondo spreaders, though they will deform if the heat is too high.

why remove the badges from your truck i paid for that package damit if i don't want to show it off. but I guess everybody is different. lol.... I would take mine off but thenIi probably wouldn't like it, then would have to pay all that money to put them back on

why remove the badges from your truck i paid for that package damit if i don't want to show it off. but I guess everybody is different. lol.... I would take mine off but thenIi probably wouldn't like it, then would have to pay all that money to put them back on


mine started peeling off on the drivers side. so i took it the rest of the way off. 3000 miles on the truck and it had all kinds of durt and grime under it. guess what i did to the other side. you got it removed it. I had a 85 chevy the first spots to rust was under the name plate and fender crome. I am betting that in 2-5 years the spot the badges are is the first spot to be repainted.

OK gang, I took off my 4x4 stickers on the bed, it looks a lot cleaner now.
(2004 -2500HD,CC,SB,6.0)

My question is are ALL the badges stuck on with glue/tape? -Like the fender "2500HD" badge? -are both Tailgate badges just glued/taped on?

I'll start removing those this weekend if I have time.

~Rob

yea....everything is taped or glued on. Even the molding that goes along the door. Their is nothing that is rivited or anything. I dident even have to heat up my molding or my LS behind the door. I also did this in the summer which might of helped. I started with just taking the tailgate badges off....then 2 weeks later i ended up taking off everything. looks alot smoother.

how was the paint underneath, Nigel? Did it need cleaning up or anything, did it make the rest of the truck look faded?

No the paint looked fine. I guess their was a very little difference from that part of the paint never seeing the sun, but you would never notice. The next time i washed and waxed it it looked fine.
After i pulled off the door molding i had to wipe it down a bit. Theirs actually only 2 strips of tape, so the center is empty allowing some dirt to get in there. By looking at your truck, I think you will like the results. Do you plan on keeping that pin stripe?

well the pinstripe matches the malibu stripes on the hood (both are metallic silver). I think I'll keep it because it matches. I am also planning on contiuing the racing stripes over the roof and down the tailgate, but haven't made the final decision on that quite yet.

If you people that removed the side moldings want to sell em, pm me as I need a set very bad. They have to be for a ex-cab Silverado and either forest green or black. I'd be interested in all 8 pieces.

I do Commercial Construction.. and a painter on the jobsite got paint on my truck while painting the outside of a Building. Anyway. They had it detailed for free.. and I had them remove the Trim.. They did a good job.. Only bitch is that theres a small line where the trim was.. and a Very Slightly noticable differnece in Paint.. So think Ahead

What color is your truck and how old was it when you took the moldings off? I'm debating about taking them off my truck, but my truck's almost a year old.

My trucks a 2000, that would make it almost 5 years old.. and I just took them off couple weeks ago

I love the look without them.. More sporty.

Great, thanks.

mines a 2003 and you cant see any difference in the paint.

Hi,

2005 Z71 Crew, 6000 miles. I went ahead and removed the moulding today. I am so, so happy with the results. Looks 10x better in my opinion. Also removed all the badges from the tailgate. Took quite a bit of time and I do also have a couple of blisters from it but all in all, I really like it.

FYI, this is how I did it.

I used a room heater (the kind that has the red heating element on it)
Placed it on a chair next to the moulding and just let it sit there for about 10 minutes. Moulding got very soft.
Passenger side came off with no problem and left almost no residue.
Driver side was not so lucky. Left a lot of residue and I spent quite a bit of time getting that off.
I did use Goo Gone to get the residue off.

Biggest PITA was getting the chevrolet emblem off the back of the truck. Tape was very difficult to remove.

Anyway, maybe tomorrow I can post some pictures of it.

BTW, got some door mouldings for sale if anyone wants them. There practically brand new.

If any of you want to sell the moldings you removed from a ex cab, let me know. I'd like to get the 8pc set but if the price is right for a 4 pc I'd take it.

I took the modlings off of my '01 last weekend. Borrowed a heat gun from a buddy. Easiest to do was the door that was sitting in the sun.

What made the job easier was my 1400psi pressure washer. I wasn't prepared for the black foamy tape that was under the the badges.

I used the pressure washer to remove the bulk of the tape.

I used Goo Gone and a plastic ice scraper to get a majority of the rest off and when I got tire of that, broke out the orbital polisher.

The truck looks so much better without the badges. I opted to leave the door modling on.

Don't be fooled into thinking this is a quick mod. All told, it still took me about 3 or 4 hours to get it all done. Well, that and I washed the truck too. I'll update my sig to show the badgeless version sometime when I'm not too lazy and when its not raining

:D

After I removed mine, and the adhesive was still on there, I tried for a second just too use the 3m adhesive remover and wipe it off. Didn't work too well, so I drove the truck to the local washateria and got it good and wet. This made the adhesive remover work so much better and I was finally able to give my blister ridden fingers a break. It came off 100% easier after I soaked the truck down. The hardest thing to remove for me was the stupid dealer sticker on the back. I can't stand it when dealers put these things on vehicles. Most of the time they're the tackiest looking things in the world!!! I know...advertising and all, but good grief it was gaudy!!! PITA to get off as well.

Own a 2000 Ext Cab, removed all mouldings and badges, including the LS, last year. I used fishing line like dental floss on everything-worked really fast, used WD-40 to remove all glues:sprayed on,let sit, used alot of elbow grease w/ a cotton towel. Also removed pinstripe-harder than any of the others, being careful, it would come off in longer pieces, but most came off in very small bits and pieces. Best looking changes to the truck, by far. You can also use WD-40 as a great bug&tar remover.

The best way to remove the tape that holds the mouldings on is to use the side of your thumb. No Goo Gone or any other solvents. Just roll it off with your thumb. It will still take a while and you will get blisters but it's alot faster than any other method.

I found out the hard way after doing one side then asking a bodyman the best way.

I wouldn't recommend Goo Gone. I tried it last night, and it left some minor scratches in the paint. I used Maguire's Swirl Remover which made it look like new again, but I don't think Goo Gone is a good idea. Just my .02 cents.


.02 cents, eh? Not 2 cents? Just 2 one-hundredths of 1 cent? Just making sure...

Got all my badges off but HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE PINSTIPING?! The pinstripes on my tailgate are already coming off so that shouldn't be that hard but the ones all up and down the sides (ext. cab) are on there. Any good methods to getting them off easily, things to do, things to avoid, etc.? Help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

if the pinstriping is anything like the CHEVROLET sticker in the back just wait until it's hot outside (noon-2ish) and then just slowly peel it off. I peeled off all the stickers on my truck with no problem. was also able to get the silverado badges off up by the door (some say LS, mine is just a low-level silverado)

I Just removed the 1500 on the door and the chevrolet on the tailgait. It was 97 and the sun was out it took 10 min. to remove with my finger nails. I did rewax the spot with color matching wax. Mine is Victoria Red. It looks great. I left the black side trim on it because I park in parking lots.

Come on guys, seems like alot of people are removing the side moldings here. If you do remove it from a ex-cab I'd be interested in buying it from you. I prefer the 8 pc set in black. I need a set for my gf's 05.


Anyone?

If anyone has a passenger side rear door molding for a 2001 2500HD kicking around, I'll buy it. LMK

I'm also in need of a "set" of 1500HD badges.I drive a 2006 Silverado CC,
let me know so we can work something out.



Crazy4nitro

Has anyone tried to remove the chrome rocker guards? I bought my truck used and the previous ower had them put on. I plan on taking the body side mouldings off my truck but i think that the chrome below it would look funny by itself and its starting to rust anyways. Is it easier to do than taking the badges and mouldings off or is it the same thing?

hey,
i have a 05' silverado and i have the big chevrolet letters across the tailgate. i was wondering if there is any way to get those off?

thanks.
preston

hey,
i have a 05' silverado and i have the big chevrolet letters across the tailgate. i was wondering if there is any way to get those off?

thanks.
preston

grab a blow dryer or a heat gun to heat the letters up and then peel them off.

thanks for the suggestion.





x

Try Avon's Skin So Soft Bath Oil. It will not hurt the finish & it's also great to remove tar, oil, and chewing gum. Also takes scuff marks and crayon off floors & other hard surfaces. Just another 2 cents worth.:2cents:

I just bought an '06 1500 ccsb and I'm Thinking about removing the door molding, but I would like to see what it looks like, before I do it.
Does anyone have an after pic ??

P.S. 1st post.
Love the site, plan on spending alot of time in here while I'm supposed to be **cough, Hack**at work **cough**:evillol:

I just bought an '06 1500 ccsb and I'm Thinking about removing the door molding, but I would like to see what it looks like, before I do it.
Does anyone have an after pic ??

P.S. 1st post.
Love the site, plan on spending alot of time in here while I'm supposed to be **cough, Hack**at work **cough**:evillol:


Heres a pic of my '05, that molding looks like crap after about a year of sunshine. I opted to remove and insert graphic. My truck is dark, but you get the idea.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=501/390505P10100932.JPGhttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/501/390505sideview.JPG

You guys are making it way to tough on yourself. I can remove a moulding in about 2 minutes or less. Go to your local automotive jobber, get a flat blade moulding tool, use it by hand or put it on your air hammer, Then buy an eraser wheel, it goes on the end of your die grinder or cut off wheel. buzz the tape off in 1 minute, if you must roll off by hand, use a little heat, a blow dryer is fine. keep it dry, unless the tape is old a brittle, then use adhesive remover by 3m. it is cheap, and removes all sticky crap,

I peeled my door trim, badges and tailgate panel trim off my truck first and then used 2 $9.00 eraser wheels to remove the left over glue on my 95 Silvy. All you need is a drill and eye protection and it's done in less than hour.

Neat trick for getting the glue off. Quite often works well without damaging paint/clearcoat.

Take a can of compressed air that you can purchase at Radio Shack or the computer accessory section at wal-mart. Normally, the can is held upright, and while spraying a keyboard the can becomes quite cold. If you invert the can (hold it upside down) and spray a small area of the glue (3-4 sq. in.) the glue will freeze. You will see the frost. Allow to sit for a bit, depends on how hot it is it your area. When you see the frost beginning to dissappear around the edges of the area you sprayed, wipe the glue off.

If you have a small dent that has NOT creased the metal, heat the area with a blow dryer for about 1 min. Quickly spray the area in the same manner and give it a good freeze. Simply let it thaw out. The change in temp makes the metal expand, then contract and when it expands back to normal temp, it resumes the same it was originally made into, provide no crease or other factor prohibits it.

You can try using an AP or 3M eraser wheel. You can chuck it in a drill and go to town. I use it on everything from pinstripe to molding adhesives.