sequential or non sequential which is better?

i have heard if i run my car non seq. then it would have more horsepower and run better. i have heard that this is a simple thing to do. can someone tell me the good and bad about running it non seq. and how to do this. and if it gives more horse then how much more. is this expensive to do. and what accesories would i need to do this

non-seq will give you better track time, but it will also shorten your turbos life

its like compairing a big turbo that takes time to spool but do the same power with than smaller turbo boosting more and spooling faster, the lag will gives your wheel the time to catch up with the tarmac and will reduce traction loss, but the car will be more laggy when you drive it in town. i'd keep the seq. until i go single, but im not a 1/4 fanatic.

im not gonna run it on the track. i just want to out run these mustangs around here. seems everybody has a mustang. im the only person within 200 miles with a 3rd gen rx7. what about the upgraded twins that you can buy on rx7.com they give morehorse than the factory twins and they are cheaper than a single and bolt right back up where the factory was. would you go upgraded twinns or upgraded single. i like the 3rd generation cause the twins make it differant

if u realy wanna keep the twin, get the 99' spec twins, they are a bit better and its still cheap. theres alot more potential with a single turbo IMO
theres so much vacum lines and emission stuff under the hood of a 3rd gen only that you can remove when you go single, its crazy

and you'll have hard time running something else than an powerFC with seq. twins (im talking about haltech, microtech and other standalone)

whats a power fc im new to this so bare with me
and what size single turbo would you recommend
and about what does the turbo and kit cost for that size. and i have an automatic. i heard from several people that turbo cars are faster on automatics than manual cause they build boost faster.is that true

Don't forget when you start to upgrading that FDs are very sensitive to fuel delivery. Upgraded turbos should be done in conjunction with upgrading the ECU of the car.

The main benefit of sequential twins is that the smaller turbo spools significantly faster (especially at lower revs before the exhaust is diverted to the larger secondary), which means that there's little to no turbo lag. Switching to non-seq usually means you'll have some lag, not a huge deal if you're going in a straight line, but may have some impact if you drive the car the way it was intended.

Also keep in mind that the stock turbos are probably good to about 13-15psi (probably a good 20-30 rwhp). This would also need to be done with an upgraded or tunable ECU as well.

BTW, what kinds of Stangs are you running against? My mostly stock FD will take my mostly stock '94 GT (302) any day.

keep the turbo you have now and put in a manual tranny... if you drive an auto you suck... thats my opinion... I just hate automatic sports cars.

if you drive an auto you can't control the cars revs and power band as well, and sometimes not at all... seriously I'd get a manual...

oh and the people that tell you auto's are better, they are wrong. nascar uses manuals even(upgraded version ofcourse but manual none the less)

the way I see it is if you drive an auto your mostly along for the ride. but if you drive a manual your a piece of the car, controlling what it does way more than an auto.

i just had the auto rebuilt maybe if it goes out again i will. trust me i wanted a manual but i couldnt afford one. at the time i came into some money the auto was the chaepest i found for what i was getting. i only paid 8000 for the car and it has about 3 grand worth of upgrades. course transmission went out 2nd month i owned it. i should have seen that comming. if i could fix this turbo problem then i would be happy. just cant figure out what is wrong with the turbo thats in it. no mechanics worth a shit around here

another question im losing boost geuss a vacuum leak. i am driving the car while im trying to get it fixed. will this hurt the car havina a leak i am not getting on it or anything

probably is a vaccum leak... I doubt it will hurt it

I still say put in a manual tranny, if you can afford a new turbo you can afford a manual tranny

i cant afford both

so don't do both, theres nothing wrong with your turbos. you just can't compeat in an auto like you can in a manual... its your choice in the end, but turbo upgrades on an auto sounds like a waste to me

^seconded

+ if you upgrade the turbos, your tranny will need to be beefed up at some point,

start with the manual tranny swap before touching the turbos, soyo is right on this one.

and if you plan on going single turbo, while you take the tranny out, dont waste your money on the original manual ECU and get a haltech :)

yea haltech with manual tranny should be about the cost of single turbo upgrade I'd think... something to look into maybe

yea haltech with manual tranny should be about the cost of single turbo upgrade I'd think... something to look into maybe

and i heard automatic trannys are weak when you reach 350-400hp, you'd have to change it anyway, do it before you blow it

KYRX-7, I don't know if you've answered this or not but what are your 3k worth of upgrades? Boost is not always a vac. leak. What are the symptoms and how's the idle? Do you have an A/F gauge? or aftermarket boost gauge? Let me know whats going on with the car and I can probably help you out. Are the factory cats on the car? What boost controller are you running...... So many things need to be answered before you can be pointed in the right direction. If you need a 5 speed tranny I might be able to help you out. I probably have everything you would need or know where it is. I had a car that we converted to an automotic after it was wrecked...... LONG STORY

thanks for trying to help. i am guessing on the upgrades.it has factory cat but it has a upgrade greddy cat back. dont know why the owner before me did that. it has a huge pf intercooler. greddy turbo timer, i bought a apex blow off valve but havent used it cause of the turbo problem.now answer me this. alot of people tell me that the air box has been upgraded. its not the square box that says mazda like the factory box it is a dimond shaped box that runs into the intercooler. is that a upgrade and if it is is it better than the filters that most people have on the cars. also i have a aftermarket boost gauge.i have no boost control.
o.k. this is what the car is doing.when i take off no matter what i do it wont make but 5 pounds of boost if i let off the gas a little you can watch the boost gauge go down a little then you can hear a whistle and the car will pick up speed letting off the gas because the turbo kicks in soon as it whisles you can push it to the floor and it will make 10 to 15 pounds???? now just 2 days ago i was driving and it was doing the same thing but something has happened because now when it makes boost it makes a loud shkoooooooooooooooooooooo sound. is that a leak??? i can make boost whenever i want except for take off buy letting off the throttle a little until it whisles just a faint whisle. what could this be?? is the twins bad or something else?

Hmmmm. Hard to say. I would look at 2 culprits, your cat and a leak. Pressure test the system and that will give you a good idea of a leak. Sounds more like a intake hose leak maybe a vaccuum. anyway, forcing the car to make boost may not be what you want it to do. Take of your cat and drive it down the block and see if that stops your problem. Your cat is probably fried. Hope that helps

dont drive it too long without cat, you'll run too lean and blow the engine.

I guess I should have stated only for a block. Don't run without one

glad you added that, I was afraid he was gonna kill his car :)

checked the cat at my friends muffler shop and it was fine. he has the car today and gonna put it on the dyno so he can make boost and check the leak will keep you guys informed on the progress