Glue
GhostRaider
06-23-2004, 08:43 AM
I am really new to modeling, and I need help. I bought the Tamiya Toyota Supra kit, and it doens't come with glue. So while looking I found different kinds of glue. My question is what kind of glue should I be using?! At the store I found glue that was divided into 3 categories: thin, medium, and thick. Is there a difference in the performence or something? Anyways thanks in advance for all the help.
Vric
06-23-2004, 08:46 AM
Go directly to the FAQ (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=63623), do not pass go, do not claim 200$ :lol:
oh and Welcome !
oh and Welcome !
GhostRaider
06-23-2004, 10:26 AM
Oh, okay thanks a bunch..although I would like to claim that $200... :iceslolan
g00eY
06-23-2004, 09:51 PM
go buy some model glue for like $3
StephenDeli
06-23-2004, 11:55 PM
Just dont get the testors glue. After a few uses it comes out on its own and becomes stringy... Go for super glue and tamiyas cement. They work perfectly for muah!
Vric
06-24-2004, 07:56 AM
strange.. I use testor glue (liquid) for many year and never had a problem with it (beside the small nozzle get stuck everytime) same with Humbrol
MPWR
06-24-2004, 08:13 AM
Just dont get the testors glue. After a few uses it comes out on its own and becomes stringy... Go for super glue and tamiyas cement. They work perfectly for muah!
Don't get Testors TUBE glue- the liquid stuff in the glass bottle works fine, though. It's nearly identical to the Tamiya liquid cement, which is also good stuff.
Thin, medium, and thick sound like you're looking at cyanoacrylate (Super glue). This stuff definately has a pace in modeling, but it's not what you want to be using for the majority of assembling. To start off with, you don't even need a bottle of it. But you do need a bottle (not tube!) of liquid 'cement for plastic models'. Personally, I also recommend using it with a non-synthetic artist brush with a decent tip. Find an inexpensive one, and use it only for gluing. It's much, MUCH better than the stupid little brush sometimes included on the bottom of the bottle lid.
Don't get Testors TUBE glue- the liquid stuff in the glass bottle works fine, though. It's nearly identical to the Tamiya liquid cement, which is also good stuff.
Thin, medium, and thick sound like you're looking at cyanoacrylate (Super glue). This stuff definately has a pace in modeling, but it's not what you want to be using for the majority of assembling. To start off with, you don't even need a bottle of it. But you do need a bottle (not tube!) of liquid 'cement for plastic models'. Personally, I also recommend using it with a non-synthetic artist brush with a decent tip. Find an inexpensive one, and use it only for gluing. It's much, MUCH better than the stupid little brush sometimes included on the bottom of the bottle lid.
Vric
06-24-2004, 08:15 AM
oh yea Testor Tube are the first way to ruin a model
StephenDeli
06-24-2004, 11:03 AM
Don't get Testors TUBE glue- the liquid stuff in the glass bottle works fine, though. It's nearly identical to the Tamiya liquid cement, which is also good stuff.
Thin, medium, and thick sound like you're looking at cyanoacrylate (Super glue). This stuff definately has a pace in modeling, but it's not what you want to be using for the majority of assembling. To start off with, you don't even need a bottle of it. But you do need a bottle (not tube!) of liquid 'cement for plastic models'. Personally, I also recommend using it with a non-synthetic artist brush with a decent tip. Find an inexpensive one, and use it only for gluing. It's much, MUCH better than the stupid little brush sometimes included on the bottom of the bottle lid.
Yea only use super glue sparingly. Use it on stuff that really need it. For instance mirrors, suspensions. antennaes, minor details. If you end up using it for everythign you might slip and glue your hands together :loser:
Thin, medium, and thick sound like you're looking at cyanoacrylate (Super glue). This stuff definately has a pace in modeling, but it's not what you want to be using for the majority of assembling. To start off with, you don't even need a bottle of it. But you do need a bottle (not tube!) of liquid 'cement for plastic models'. Personally, I also recommend using it with a non-synthetic artist brush with a decent tip. Find an inexpensive one, and use it only for gluing. It's much, MUCH better than the stupid little brush sometimes included on the bottom of the bottle lid.
Yea only use super glue sparingly. Use it on stuff that really need it. For instance mirrors, suspensions. antennaes, minor details. If you end up using it for everythign you might slip and glue your hands together :loser:
g00eY
06-24-2004, 01:43 PM
i used to get my hands glued together...
g00eY
06-24-2004, 01:44 PM
o yea... do i have to use superglue for suspensions? i just use the regular liquid bottle stuff.
MPWR
06-24-2004, 01:56 PM
o yea... do i have to use superglue for suspensions? i just use the regular liquid bottle stuff.
The regular liquid bottle stuff does just fine. Occasionaly, you may find a kit with a spot that needs to be glued, that doesn't have enough surface area or doesn't want to stay put while the cement sets up. then, you might want something with a bit more 'instant grab', and cyanoacrylate works well for that. If I can, though, I always try the liquid cement first, and if it won't work, I consider superglue- it's harder to clean up if you get it wrong.
The regular liquid bottle stuff does just fine. Occasionaly, you may find a kit with a spot that needs to be glued, that doesn't have enough surface area or doesn't want to stay put while the cement sets up. then, you might want something with a bit more 'instant grab', and cyanoacrylate works well for that. If I can, though, I always try the liquid cement first, and if it won't work, I consider superglue- it's harder to clean up if you get it wrong.
Vric
06-24-2004, 02:34 PM
Superglue should be used ONLY for resin or metal part.
MPWR
06-24-2004, 02:50 PM
Superglue should be used ONLY for resin or metal part.
Not true. Superglue is very useful in plastic modeling. It's practically indespenable in scratchbuilding and advanced detailing. But it does require a different technique to use.
Not true. Superglue is very useful in plastic modeling. It's practically indespenable in scratchbuilding and advanced detailing. But it does require a different technique to use.
Vric
06-24-2004, 04:42 PM
Explaint it to me.
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
StephenDeli
06-24-2004, 06:18 PM
Explaint it to me.
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
I figured I would put superglue on items that were small/fragile or had weight put on them. Now I know that a model weight is not enough to rip off a suspension but on my camaro(revell 2002 aniversary edt) I made it always kept coming loose(absolutely horrible model BTW) so ever since then I use superglue just to be safe. Normal model cement would work just fine as I can imagine though. I bet im the only one who does that though :loser:
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
I figured I would put superglue on items that were small/fragile or had weight put on them. Now I know that a model weight is not enough to rip off a suspension but on my camaro(revell 2002 aniversary edt) I made it always kept coming loose(absolutely horrible model BTW) so ever since then I use superglue just to be safe. Normal model cement would work just fine as I can imagine though. I bet im the only one who does that though :loser:
proosen
06-25-2004, 07:26 AM
Here in Sweden most people in the buisness of plastic modeling use something called Ethylis Acetas that we buy at the pharmacy. It's cheaper and much more versatile than liquid cement. It's about $16 per 1000ml, much better than paying a couple of bucks for 20-30ml liquid cement. If you have it in your country, give it a try...it beats the crap out of any other glue. just hold the parts together and apply a small amount to the joint and it'll flow by it self and voila the parts are bonded together in an instant. One more thing that's good with this one is that although smelling quite strong it isn't as dangerouse as the other cements on the market.
Niclas
Niclas
MPWR
06-25-2004, 08:53 AM
Explaint it to me.
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
Ok, a specific example. On my F50, I decided the rear dampers needed to be replaced. I machined a new set out of aluminum. But, Tamiya molded both dampers, and the hardware to attach them to the car, as one solid piece.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/67954101_0191.jpg
In order to install the scratchbuilt dampers, I needed to use portions of the original kit part, also. The center part was easy, it has a large alignment lug, so plastic cement would work fine. The forged lever arms that hold the outboard ends of the dampers were now actually going to have to support the weight of the new aluminum dampers. On the kit part, these lever arms were never intended to support any weight- the entire solid part was to be held in place by the center alignment lug, and the pins at the end of each of the thin pushrods extending from the lever arms (I removed the molded on pushrods to repace them with something more articulated looking). There were no alignment pins here, or anything else to give these arms any strength.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/67954101_0194.jpg
Now, this was essentially gluing plastic to plastic- ideally, plastic cement might have been used. However, the fit was not tight enough to hold the lever arm in place with plastic cement- the bond wouldn't even hold the weight of the plastic lever arm, let alone the new damper. Also, alignment was critical for this part, and there was nothing to hold it aligned after initial positioning. If I had used plastic cement, i could have applied it to both surfaces, placed the lever arm in perfect alignment, and then hopefully found some way to hold it in place without moving it for several hours until the cement cured- then, I would have to hope that the bond would be strong enough to support the damper- otherwise, the lever arm would break free again,
and I'd have to try it again (and again and again). Instead, I used superglue, aligned it how I wanted it, and applied accelerator, and had the part positioned exactly where I wanted it, with enough strength to hold the damper. So, despite the fact that this was a plastic to plastic bond, liquid cement would not have done the job I needed it to. As I said before, plastic cement will do very nicely for the considerable majority of plastic modeling- however, scratchbuilding and advanced detailing would be very diffcult without it.
if you have 2 plastic part to glue, you get plastic glue. I model for many year and never used superglue for 2 plastic part
Why would you use super glue on a suspention ? we don't play with your model car (at last I don't)
Ok, a specific example. On my F50, I decided the rear dampers needed to be replaced. I machined a new set out of aluminum. But, Tamiya molded both dampers, and the hardware to attach them to the car, as one solid piece.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/67954101_0191.jpg
In order to install the scratchbuilt dampers, I needed to use portions of the original kit part, also. The center part was easy, it has a large alignment lug, so plastic cement would work fine. The forged lever arms that hold the outboard ends of the dampers were now actually going to have to support the weight of the new aluminum dampers. On the kit part, these lever arms were never intended to support any weight- the entire solid part was to be held in place by the center alignment lug, and the pins at the end of each of the thin pushrods extending from the lever arms (I removed the molded on pushrods to repace them with something more articulated looking). There were no alignment pins here, or anything else to give these arms any strength.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/67954101_0194.jpg
Now, this was essentially gluing plastic to plastic- ideally, plastic cement might have been used. However, the fit was not tight enough to hold the lever arm in place with plastic cement- the bond wouldn't even hold the weight of the plastic lever arm, let alone the new damper. Also, alignment was critical for this part, and there was nothing to hold it aligned after initial positioning. If I had used plastic cement, i could have applied it to both surfaces, placed the lever arm in perfect alignment, and then hopefully found some way to hold it in place without moving it for several hours until the cement cured- then, I would have to hope that the bond would be strong enough to support the damper- otherwise, the lever arm would break free again,
and I'd have to try it again (and again and again). Instead, I used superglue, aligned it how I wanted it, and applied accelerator, and had the part positioned exactly where I wanted it, with enough strength to hold the damper. So, despite the fact that this was a plastic to plastic bond, liquid cement would not have done the job I needed it to. As I said before, plastic cement will do very nicely for the considerable majority of plastic modeling- however, scratchbuilding and advanced detailing would be very diffcult without it.
StephenDeli
06-25-2004, 10:26 AM
Well said
BTW Gorgeous F50 you have there!
BTW Gorgeous F50 you have there!
Howielong
06-25-2004, 12:59 PM
I just want to say one small thing. I have been using testors bottle glue. I have no problems using it. But maybe some time i go out to my tamiya dealer i will pick up some good glue. My rant is done now.
MPWR
06-25-2004, 01:42 PM
Well said
BTW Gorgeous F50 you have there!
Thank you!
BTW Gorgeous F50 you have there!
Thank you!
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026