clutch
bonezlugo
06-22-2004, 06:11 PM
How do I know when I need to change the clutch.....I have to pull back the clutch more than half way to get it going.......Is it posible to change my clutch so that it gets going as soon as I start to let go of the clutch. Would appriciate the help.
slicshake
06-22-2004, 06:15 PM
My clutch just blew on my cav, well thoguht it was the clutch ended up being the tranny and spent 900$ on a new tranny (well not new, but of a newer cav.) and clutch, and it STILL catches about mid way.
For about 2 months i ahd to drive with it slipping. The car would start out fine, but once it got warm, it would start to slip. When i bought the car, it would catch about midway through the pedal, by the time it started to slip it was cathcing in the last few inches.
And when it really started to slip, it would catch at the very end, and then you woudlent feel it catching at all.
As for making it catch earlier, i have no clue. Since cav's used hydrulics (at least mine does) i dont think there's alot you can do. Maybe a sports clutch
For about 2 months i ahd to drive with it slipping. The car would start out fine, but once it got warm, it would start to slip. When i bought the car, it would catch about midway through the pedal, by the time it started to slip it was cathcing in the last few inches.
And when it really started to slip, it would catch at the very end, and then you woudlent feel it catching at all.
As for making it catch earlier, i have no clue. Since cav's used hydrulics (at least mine does) i dont think there's alot you can do. Maybe a sports clutch
Three_Fingers
06-22-2004, 09:12 PM
Dunno what car ya got-if it's a hydraulic clutch (most likely), check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. There might also be an adjuster for clutch throw as well.
A plain cable-operated clutch has an adjustment on the fork just like a rear drum brake on a motorcycle-just turn the nut in til the travel at the pedal is right. On a cable system-when there's no more adjustment and the clutch slips-it's time for a new one.
On a hydraulic system-when it starts to slip-it's time.
You woudn't want the clutch to engage immediately upon starting to let the pedal up. You need some travel before that happens because heat, throwout bearing wear and whatnot tend to change tolerances (closeness of parts) so when the car is cold-you might have enough clearance to keep the clutch disengaged with the pedal in-but when it's warm that could change resulting in a clutch that doesn't disengage at all or not enough so it causes warping and premature wear (or an accident!)
There should always be a couple inches of pedal travel befor the clutch starts to engage. There should also be some "free play" in the pedal (where it'll move a bit without doing anything before it contacts the master cyl. pushrod to keep from beating up the pushrod and cylinder cup seal.
A plain cable-operated clutch has an adjustment on the fork just like a rear drum brake on a motorcycle-just turn the nut in til the travel at the pedal is right. On a cable system-when there's no more adjustment and the clutch slips-it's time for a new one.
On a hydraulic system-when it starts to slip-it's time.
You woudn't want the clutch to engage immediately upon starting to let the pedal up. You need some travel before that happens because heat, throwout bearing wear and whatnot tend to change tolerances (closeness of parts) so when the car is cold-you might have enough clearance to keep the clutch disengaged with the pedal in-but when it's warm that could change resulting in a clutch that doesn't disengage at all or not enough so it causes warping and premature wear (or an accident!)
There should always be a couple inches of pedal travel befor the clutch starts to engage. There should also be some "free play" in the pedal (where it'll move a bit without doing anything before it contacts the master cyl. pushrod to keep from beating up the pushrod and cylinder cup seal.
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