induction

Hey guys, just wondering if after adding a cold air induction and high airflow components on a 99 ws6, would the air fuel mixture be incorrect or would the computer simply make the proper adjustments. Would I need a different MAF sensor?

Hey guys, just wondering if after adding a cold air induction and high airflow components on a 99 ws6, would the air fuel mixture be incorrect or would the computer simply make the proper adjustments. Would I need a different MAF sensor?

Stay away from an aftermarket MAF!!! As you browse through these and other forums, you'll find that on anything short of 500 hp, fiddling with the stock MAF will just cause problems. There are a few instances where it helped seeing as every engine behaves a bit differently, but for the most part, trouble lies ahead. Your computer will re-learn and adjust for the best settings.

--Jason

hey thanks for tha response, but what should i look into getting other than the MAF sensor if im going to buy a cold air induction package from slp and i already have headers, exhaust, 4.10 gears, and a short shift?

hey thanks for tha response, but what should i look into getting other than the MAF sensor if im going to buy a cold air induction package from slp and i already have headers, exhaust, 4.10 gears, and a short shift?


My Formula has full induction: SLP cold air, sealed MTI airlid, !fernco (like the smooth bellows, but $2.99 instead of $50), and ported/polished TB. The air lid on the WS6 model is higher than the stock LS1 lid, so stay away from the SLP model. There's something out there called the Brian Green Ram Air (BGRA) that's made specifically for Ram Air setups. It's made to better fit the baffels under the hood and direct more air into the engine. Some folks also use a Fast Toys Ram Air (FTRA) in conjunction with the BGRA. The FTRA is basically the same as the SLP model, but is a bit longer and goes down further behind the radiator than the SLP model. If I were starting over, I'd go with the FTRA.

As far as which airlid to get, they all offer basically the same amount of power, so go based on looks, finish quality, fit, etc. MTI makes a very nice clear one :)

SLP advertises something called 'smooth bellows' which is a part to replace the stock bellows (stock has ridges and is located between the air box and the MAF). What it does is smooth the air to ensure better A/F ratio.

TB's are where you'll pick up some nice power. ou could either port and polish your own, or go for aftermarket. Shaner makes a very popular one (Shaner2 I think it is?).

Try to stay away from SLP as much as you can. They boost their HP claims and pretty much everything they offer can be found for cheaper--they just happen to be ~wonderful~ at marketing. Only thing I'd go with them if I were starting over would be a Loudmouth exhaust.

Here's a great link to a post over at LS1.com: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=485759

Covers all the basics and is full of wonderful info.

Enjoy!

--Jason

I've spent some time looking into reviews on all the different air lids and the best performance gains came from the TSP high flow air lid. also it is one of the cheapest. you can pick one up here

http://www.texas-speed.com/item_detail.asp?ProductID=68

how exactly does the BG Ram Air system work and how does it actually look under the hood...stock?...good/bad?

oh and what exactly is the problem with aftermarket MAF sensors...what problems do people have with them?

thanks for the help

-Justin

how exactly does the BG Ram Air system work and how does it actually look under the hood...stock?...good/bad?

oh and what exactly is the problem with aftermarket MAF sensors...what problems do people have with them?

thanks for the help

-Justin

I'm not too familiar with the BGRA, but from what I've heard from people who have it, they love it. If you look underneath the hood on a WS6, there are baffles, but the way they are set up doen't provide much of a 'direct' forced air induction. the BGRA will sort of redirect the air to make is more useful. Check out LS1.com and do a search for 'Brain Green Ram Air'

As far as aftermarket MAF's... Where to begin. As mentioned before, the stock one will flow more than enough air to handle 500rwhp--it's the only non-restrictive part of our stock induction. Once they're replaced, the computer has a hard time finding the right A/F ratio and tuning it just right is a PITA. Most people who use them find that they run lean and even lose some HP, and eventually go back to stock. Don't believe the claims made by SLP of the other places for massive power increases; the vehicles they base that on probably had huge cams, headers, heads, etc...highly-worked cars. If anything, just buy a very good filter for under the airlid and then take the MAF screen off.

--Jason

hey i think i would like to go with the BG ram air system, but i dont have the stock hood. Will the system work with a fiberglass hood with slightly larger 'nostrils'?

Oh and will the BG system work in conjunction with the TPS high flow air lid?

Thanks for the advice

-Justin

hey i think i would like to go with the BG ram air system, but i dont have the stock hood. Will the system work with a fiberglass hood with slightly larger 'nostrils'?

Oh and will the BG system work in conjunction with the TPS high flow air lid?

Thanks for the advice

-Justin

I'm not sure. You'd have to ask a WS6 person about that since the underside of the hood is a bit different from mine. As far as working with the TSP lid, I don't see how the two would be incompatible, so I'd say go for it! All the lid does is smooth out the airflow one it's entered the airbox.

--Jason