Rebuild question

I have my motor out right now and I'm going to start the teardown and rebuild as soon as my engine stand adapter comes in the mail. I read the 6 port bashing in the other thread and wanted to know if I were to buy a turbo shortblock and rebuild it minus the turbo, would there be any issues with putting that in my s5 na? I was putting in a turbo rotating assembly anyway because I am supercharging the motor soon. Thanks for any help.

u plan on porting the engine ?
what kind and size of s/c are you looking to get ?

do you rebuild the engine cuz its blown or cuz its low on compression ?
is it an S4 or S5 engine ?
are you gonna remain EFI ?

Can you let me have it when your done? .......LoL

can you hook me up on the S/C . cuz i am planning on doing that on my s4 n/a . i'll pm u on details.

-u plan on porting the engine ?
---Yeah, most likely a half bridge

-what kind and size of s/c are you looking to get ?
---Eaton m90

-do you rebuild the engine cuz its blown or cuz its low on compression ?
---Blown, and I have to learn somehow :)

-is it an S4 or S5 engine ?
---S5

-are you gonna remain EFI ?
---I hadn't even considered not remaining EFI, is there an argument for losing it?

Oh yeah, does anyone know where I can get an engine stand adapter for the motor. So far I have seen $90 at mazdatrix and $69 at pinneapple racing. Are those my only two choices?

some people like to upgrade to a holley carb setup, racing beat has them, I like EFI myself, the holley carb systems are more for cars that have a bad EFI system or are strictly track cars... which yours isn't so I'd think you'd wanna stay EFI... plus the holley carburater would cost more money($860) :)

This will be dropped off in the mail at my house soon!

http://www.pineappleracing.com/Prod-resa.html :naughty:

go with a T2 engine. you can open ur block and rebuild the turbo engine with your hier compression rotors but you'll have to get an S5 T2 engine or use ur e-shaft assembly and counterweight (including the flywheel)

Won't the higher compression rotors be unreliable under boost?

no I think acctually they are better, or so I've heard..

Won't the higher compression rotors be unreliable under boost?
depends on the amount of boost you're planning on running. The supercharger you've picked doesn't make a whole lot of boost so the higher compression should be ok.

higher compression with higher boost will cause more detonation if not enough fuel is used and if the internals are not strong enough, it will also cause more heat. but will produce more power from a smaller amount of boost

So it might be less reliable that a turbo rotating assembly?

not, the line betwen the "you run safe and do some good power" and the "you've blown your engine" will be a bit more thin, thats it

but first find out if your rotors are good, they're hard to find and they may be pricey

What do I look for to see if they are good or bad?

scratches, grooves if they miss apex seals when you open the block.

those are the steps i've took when i opened mine

1. try to keep every seal in place on the rotor when you get it out of the engine

2. identify the rotor face you've got, the one with the tooths is the outer face http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/b-engprt/rotor12a.jpg

3.clean the rotors face and take a notebook and draw the rotor and every signs you can find on it. you do this to know exactly where your apex seals are from, so if you have to rebuilt the engine with the old seal you can do it (its not recomended to mix up the apex seals, dont ask me why) if ur gonna use new seals you can skip this step

4. identify your rotors corner on your notebook and get the apex seals/sping/corner seals out of the rotor one at a time, and make sure u mark them to know where they exactly go on each rotor. if ur gonna use new seals you can skip this step too

5. do the same with your side seals/spings

6. this step is more important though, the side oil seals gotta be marked too, wich goes inside, wich goes outside the rotor, you can fuck the rotor up if u mix em up. you dont wanna buy the 973.61$ seal kit from mazdatrix, its not cheap.

6. once the rotor is seal-less, go buy 4L of carb cleaner (i paid 65$ for that), and leave ur rotors in the stuff (i did it one at the time, i leaved the 2nd rotor in motor oil so it dont rust) for a week or two, clean it with rags and a little brush, use compressed air to clean the seals grooves, a toothpick can be usefull too.

after this step, look for scratches or grooves.
clean the rotorhousings and the irons too, it can gives you a good idea on what heated and what blew inside the engine