PPG duracryl 468-HELP

OK, 1st let me bow to professional auto painters. Lots of work, and no-one wants to pay the price, including me. I wrecked my elantra(commuter car) decided to fix and paint myself. Reshaped hood, and used small amount of filler where needed. Painted the car with paint bought online(nice enough not to send thinning instructions) so I reduced 1:1. Seems to have been a good guess. Anyhow, they also sent duracryl 468, also no thinning intructions. I thin 1:1, and it comes out of my gun like silly string. Help.

Sounds like you are using the wrong reducer and its wanting to "catalyze" in the gun. How old is the paint? What reducer are you using?

Make sure you are using Duracryl DTL 105 reducer

I was just thinning with thinner, I found the data sheet online and they call for 1:2 thinning.

I was just thinning with thinner, I found the data sheet online and they call for 1:2 thinning.

You cant thin paint with any old thinner, you need a specific reducer. Duracryl 468 calls for Duracryl DTL 105 reducer.

Yes, I have since found that out. I also just realized the company sent me dupont basecoat, and ppg clear. From what I have learned (enough to be dangerous) mixing systems like that is a no no. Anyway, it's too late now. I will wet sand and buff tomorrow. I will also post a pic so the real painters can have a good laugh at yet another dumba** shadetree paint job.

I see you have learned at least one thing, not to cross breed layers of paint. Stick with the same paint through out the whole paint process. Same brand, same type (excluding epoxy primer). The problem with that is the paint can peel, have reactions with the different brands; and if you lay a lacquer of an enamel the enamel will cringe.

eeeewww. Well that didn't work. I am going to start over, and have sanded back down thru oem. I am also going to a local paint supply house to purchase all products within one system, this will be the most expensive hood on an elantra by the time i am done. But I do enjoy it, so maybe I will continue playing with it on a spare panel. Thanks for your help Mike.

Here are pics of my bad clearcoat? Any thoughts on fixing?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/195323DSCN1424-med.JPG


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/501/195323DSCN1423-med.JPG

Ouch, that is a horrible case of orange peel. You could try sanding it out with some 800-1000 Wet.

Mike, Thanks for your help. I decided to wait a few days to let any shrinkage(sp?) or other funny stuff happen. Had to sand with 600, went too far in some places, then to 1000,1500,2000, buff, then glaze. I need to go back to 1000 and do it again with a better backing pad, my pressure was too uneven, and it shows. But at least I can drive it now.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/195323DSCN1441-med.JPG

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/195323DSCN1446-med.JPG

Much better. Get a power polisher and throw some more compound on it it get the rest of the rough spots out...be liberal with the polishing though.

That was with a polisher, and 3m perfectit III compound with a convoluted foam pad, then trizact glaze with same pad. I am ordering more pads today.

the pads not smooth?

I definitely need to get a buffer for the next time I paint my bike. Last time I had a little bit of roughness in the clear and I spent forever doing the rubbing compound by hand and it still wasn't enough.