New CV Joint?

disclaimer:
I am still learning a lot when it comes to fixing cars, so please bare with me!

I am currently driving a 1989 Pontiac Bonneville SE with 168,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed a wierd grinding noise when I turned left. As well as the steering wheel felt shaky when the noise happened.
It doesn't happen any other time except when I turn left.
So upon doing some research and asking around, I came to the conclusion it is the CV Joint (although it looks like there are inner & outter ones ?). I looked at the boot this weekend and it doesn't appear to be cracked or leaking. Without taking anything else apart I thought it would be best to get some advice. I have looked online and it seems that some people recommend changing the whole drive axle?
And some people said that I need to get everything balanced perfectly, so this is not a job for my husband (who is semi-skilled in the car dept) but for that of a mechanic. It looks to be quite expensive to repair so I really wanted to attempt this at home (with some help of course).
Would this be a bad idea? Is it true that you need to get everything "perfectly balanced - requiring a machine" or with the right tools can this be fixed at home?

Also, if it can be fixed at home, what is the best route, the whole drive axle? Buying a new CV joint kit (with the boot/etc all together) or what?

If it means saving myself hundreds of dollars I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but I wanted to make sure that this was something that could be done at home.
Also, if this does not sound like a CV Joint problem, please speak up!
I am very interested in trying to get this problem solved affordably, and hopefully learning something in the process.

Thanks.

Well, it could be the CV Joint, sounds like it at least. They click as well when they go bad, especially on turns when its at extreme angles. I happen to be an engineer for Delphi and Im extremely familiar with these joints, as we build 30,000 each day in our plant. I have never done a CV joint replacement myself, but it can be a do it yourself project. It takes some umph to get the joint out. The nut on the thread of the CV is big and based on an interference fit so it doesn't come undone. The splines also have a helix in them, so even with the nut off, you have to beat the joint out of the hub with a big hammer. The helical spline on the male cv makes the connection extremely tight so there is no lash in the connection. They make a repair kit that comes with a new joint, boot, bag of grease, and wrench tightenable boot clamps. Its a lot of bull work. I'm not sure if you have to loosen the front knuckle to get more clearance to pull the axle from the hub. The best thing to do is to get a mechanic here to reply or someone who has done it before, or get a Haynes or Chilton book that list all the steps and pictures, then decide if your up to it.

Don't believe anything about special balancing, those totally untrue.

Keith

I give you credit for having the ambition to do it yourself, but don't forget to take into account something very important, as you don't want to get stuck when the car's half apart, make sure you have the right tools and socket's before you start, also having and air gun and compressor make's the job alot easier, usually the axel nut requires a special size socket eg: 33 mm 36 mm most do it yourselfers, do not have that in their box.

The biggest expense to the whole job is the Axel Shaft itself, but if you shop around (local parts Stores) you can probably find a remanufacture exchange at a reasonalble price , and it usually only pays about 1.5 per axel for the re-re, so depending on you mechanics rate it may vary.

If you want the cheapest alternative, call your local wrecker, they will have a used complete shaft cheap and some even install.

Well good luck.

Mr.Rob

Lic Mech Auto/Truck/Trailer/H.Equip

Thanks for the replies, they were a lot more positive than I had been getting from others! :)

Thanks for the replies, they were a lot more positive than I had been getting from others! :)
Replace the entire shaft! This is NOT a simple job to do in your garage or driveway and can be dangerous. The entire steering knuckle must be frre to pull out and away from the fender well.. This may or may not affect your alignment. Brake lines could be a hazard. A wide variety of tools will be used. Big hammers, pry bars, tie rod end seperators etc...You may lose tarns fluid, you may need to replace a seal....I have done many without the luxury of a vehicle lift. The last one I did, the safety stand collapsed under the vehicle weight, my face was crushed. I lost an eye, a shoulder and still recovering from my last reconstructive surgery. Do NOT use old, fatigued safety stands FROM CHINA and exercise safety.

I have replaced the cv shafts on my car three times( once to clean out the joint and replace the boot, twice replacing the whole cv shaft). I have an 88 bonneville and it can be done at home without a lift. You will need a large socket to get the hub nut off, i believe it is a 36 mm. other than that a pickle fork and large hammers are the only special tools you will need. replacting the whole shaft on the left side would be the easiest way to go, and only slightly more expensive than a rebuild. Make sure to buy a chiltons and follow what is says. replace all cotter pins when you are done, don't reuse them. Also, some people claim you will need an impact wrench to take off the spindle nut. I have never had good luck with this. The best way from my experience is to buy a good breaker bar and put a cheater pipe on it for leverage, the longer the better. A nice four foot bar should do it. You might lose up to a quart of tranny fluid, nothing major.