multiple stupid ?s

First off, I was looking under the passenger seat trying to locate some lost mail (success!) and I noticed a black spring about an inch thick, it was attached to one side of the bottom of the chair, but not the other side, it seems pretty obvious that it is meant to stretch across the bottom of the chair and attach to the hole on the other end, but it is a pain in the @ss to stretch it out, so I'm wondering what is its purpose, and if in fact, just to make sure, that it is supposed to be reconnected to the other side.

2ndly, I took off my MAS and FIPK to check my stock BOV for any obvious leaks(no sucess) and I decided to take a pin and try and 'repair' some of the screwed up honeycomb things in the MAS, so after all that, I replaced it, and like an idiot I forgot to reconnect the wiring harness to the MAS, I started the car and it stalled 10 seconds later. So I reconnected it. Now the check engine light is on. I expected it would be on for a little bit as it relearns the intake, but I took it for a quick drive and it is still on. Any ideas/advice, I'm not worried yet, but if it is still on after the drive to work tomorrow I will start to wonder. Also, how necessary is the honeycombing in the MAS, can it be removed or is that a bad idea? Just checking.

disconect the battery cable for 5 minutes, but make sure you know your radio code first, i did the same thing when i installed the fipk but the check light didnt come on your system just needs to reset. hope i helped.

Yeah that's what I realized a bit after posting, I never disconnected the battery. So I will take care of that as soon as it stops showering. Anybody know if that spring or the honeycombs are really necessary. I will reattach the spring and I left the honeycombs in, I was just curious.

im sure the honeycomb is important geoff, it helps the air flow into the mass as far as im aware. dont think it will run properly without it, as far as the spring is concerned ive got the exact same thing on mine but havent looked at it yet lol.

As far as i'm concerned, you can take the honeycomb out of the MAS. I've taken mine out and it hasn't seemed to do anything different. The way i looked at it is: if you would take the honeycombing and smash it all to one side of the MAS, thats how much air flow your loosing. You already have a filter on it so it's not there to cetch anything.

Is there any way to clean the MAS without hurting it?

Regarding your sig, go to www.3si.org they have a tutorial (i think) about the conversion. As well they have a division of the forum by location, so you maybe able to find people that live close by and are willing to help.

Thanks, I checked that site out. They have everything needed. I'm still trying to figure out how turbos exactly work and if i can use other turbos.My friend has 2 stage 2 turbos sitting around off a Chrysler 2.2L. He has the manual boost controller for it too. It's probably a stupid idea trying to pair Chrysler turbos with a Mitsubishi motor. Someone give me an idea

Well it all depends. Technically with enough fabrication I will say almost any turbo combo is possible. That being said, most are unlikely. As they need to mount to the exhaust manifolds and not interfere with other parts. Also some Chrysler turbos spin the opposite way our(vr4) turbos spin. If I am not mistaken, the srt4's turbo spins the opposite way. Tell us what exact turbos they are, and maybe we can help. The whole "stage _" thing gets thrown around WAY too much and says very little. Every company has staged upgrades, one companies stage 2 technology might be equal to anothers stage 13 technology. So I have never found that to be helpful. But if you know the housing size and compressor wheel size and such, some of the guys and girls here might be able to help.

I'm 90% sure the MAS you all use is the same as the 2g MAS from our DSMs. THe honeycombs are there to direct airflow (as said above), but can be removed with proper fuel control. You WILL have to richen up your fuel delivery, though.

This being said, my car runs a little sloppy with the HCs removed, and the airflow curve on my AFC shows an intermittent "hiccup" when going from LO tables to WOT tables. I purchased a used 3kGT MAS that doesn't work and am putting the HCs back into my MAS.

If I am incorrect about the MAS being the same, disregard my rambling, but they are identical in size and shape.

^this sounds more like my problem then anything, what he just said is what is causing my hesitation i think.

^this sounds more like my problem then anything, what he just said is what is causing my hesitation i think.
Since you had similar driveability issues, I figured I'd update this.

I put my "donor" HCs back into the MAF and it made a WORLD of part throttle difference, though I am having to completely retune for WOT. I had to drop all of my SAFC settigns by about 20% which gives you an idea of just how much unmetered air was coming through those side and lower HCs.

Ok, you guys have a point. This afternoon i dropped the HC's back into my MAS but i end up with the same problem i had in the first place(I never mentioned that did i?). I got my car back about 2 months ago after......a long time of being seperated from it. The guy before me took it to some dumb mechanic that didn't know how to tighten the timing belt tight enough. I got the car and being young and stupid, didn't take it to a mechanic when I got it:banghead:. Besides, the car could waste a Z28 or LT1, who needed a mechanic:banghead:? Anyway in June 2003, the belt jumped and the engine died.....bent valves and other things, the list is around here somewhere. I got the money to fix the car and the mechanic took way to long to work on it and fix it. Well, I got it back a while ago and the thing wants to die on me every now and then, but when it has ran for a while, it doesn't act up anymore. I removed the resonator bottle and put a cap on it and that helped with some of the REALLY low rpms i was pulling. My friend told me about removing the HC's like he did on his Chrysler something and it's helped a bit but I'm still puzzled to how I can pull the RPM's a little higher. Oh, also, since I got the car back it has some problems accelerating between 1,000-5,000 RPM's but no problem with 5+. This is frustating as hell since i'm leaving for college in 2 months. Someone please help!!!! I want my car back the way she was....please help. If you have any ideas, just list them. I'm to the point of trying anything, well, except selling it. I hope it doesn't end up to be that.

as far as your car dying every once in awhile, don't worry, mine does it in the winter time also and once it warms up that doesn't happen anymore. actually sometimes it still did it. but it somehow only does it in the winter. :dunno: