Higher Compression

what are the procedures to get higher compression in my D16Y8....can i just put on a thinner head gasket or what?!?!?

get higher compression pistons

higher comp pistons, thinner headgasket, shaving the head and block, valves

say i didn't wanna spend the $ on internals cuz the turbo i'm getting comes with everything...would i still be able to put on a thinner head gasket or would i HAFTA get the pistons and cam?!?

the turbo your getting is comming with internals ??? and you dont wanna raise your compression if your going boost anyways..what turbo kit is this..cause that will depend on the boost variables and how much bosot you plan on running and so forth..shoot more info

higher comp pistons, thinner headgasket, shaving the head and block, valves
valves huh?

well i kno i would only be able to run 5-7max boost so i've only put on it so far was plugs, wires, cold air, pulleys, and ground wires....i'm trying to do things i wouldnt hafta change or get rid of. So i was thinking of getting a Greddy turbo kit...what do u think?

say i didn't wanna spend the $ on internals cuz the turbo i'm getting comes with everything...
Oh really? What kit is this that comes with internals? :rolleyes:
would i still be able to put on a thinner head gasket or would i HAFTA get the pistons and cam?!?
Do you want to blow your shit up? Raising compression then forcing boost on top of that is retarded 'cuz'.
i'm trying to do things i wouldnt hafta change or get rid of.
Got news for ya, the turbo replaces your cold air intake.

yes valves that can increase your compression alittle, not much but just alittle.

you dont need aftermarket wires, oem honda wires are good. some guys running 500whp run honda oem wires.

you wont need any internals with 5-7 psi, i would just recommend a good engine management system

im aware that the kit would replace my cold air, but that's about the only thing that i would hafta worry about getting rid of...which wouldn't be hard.

well what do you want !? high compression or a turbo ? you cant have both on the engine itself..rather high compression all motor or low compression turbo for the turbo will raise....theres allt his talk about high comp pistons and then talk on turbo kits...which is it ?

yes valves that can increase your compression alittle, not much but just alittle.

you dont need aftermarket wires, oem honda wires are good. some guys running 500whp run honda oem wires.

you wont need any internals with 5-7 psi, i would just recommend a good engine management system
Valves don't increase your compression stunna. The size of the reliefs can possibly affect it in minute ways that can only be calculated in a .000 addition to the rest of the volume calculation. Valves can affect compression test as in if they aren't seated right, air can slip by, but not what he is talking about.

im plannin on turboin my lude si with comp 9.6:1 stock, but most aftermarket pistons for the h23 come only in 9:1 and 10:1. id like to change over to the 10:1 pistons simply because i am doin all my internals( sleeves, pistons, rods, valves, retainers, valve springs) as one step and then later i will complete the car with the turbo setup. i would rather not lose .6 compression for 4 to 6 months while ordering and finding necessary turbo parts. Could i safely run 10:1 on say 12 lbs of boost with all the internal work already completed?
thanks

to tell u the truth... running 10:1 with turbo is not a good idea. If u want more boost... bare with the low comp for tat 4-6 month period and then when ur turbo is in... u have the rest of the cars life to have fun with. i'd say with 10:1 comp... u wont be able to run more than 8 lbs unless u use racing gas.

Valves don't increase your compression stunna. The size of the reliefs can possibly affect it in minute ways that can only be calculated in a .000 addition to the rest of the volume calculation. Valves can affect compression test as in if they aren't seated right, air can slip by, but not what he is talking about.

oh so i am wrong huh, ever heard of skunk2 high compression flat valves ? but thanks for clearing it up, im glad to find out that im wrong.

ok so valves have alittle dip in them, but with these valves, there is no dip and its all flat so therefore it raises your compression.

please dont talk if you dont know what your talking about.

you can run 10 cr you just need a really good tune and keep your eye or ear open for knock. but runnin higher compression will make your max boost lower. you can run more then 8psi, i seen type r's running 8 psi on there 11.5 cr.

oh so i am wrong huh, ever heard of skunk2 high compression flat valves ? but thanks for clearing it up, im glad to find out that im wrong.

ok so valves have alittle dip in them, but with these valves, there is no dip and its all flat so therefore it raises your compression.

please dont talk if you dont know what your talking about.
Actually, I do know what I am talking about, the Skunk2 vavles raise compression 0.3-0.5 point<--note, not plural, as in you go from 10.2:1 to 10.5:1, and at over $400 a set, plus labor (and machining if you want to go oversized) they are hardly worth a look if you are just looking for a little more power instead of trying to squeeze every last ounce of power out of a build up, since the Hp to dollor ratio horrible. But ok, in all fairness yes, you can use valves to raise your compression.

thats how you have to do it with a all motor car because as you know, you cant just get really high compression pistons because you inhibit flame travel so you want to get as high compression as you can before buying high compression pistons.

and when building an all motor trying to get as high compression as you can then $400 is nothing

Pistons are one of the first steps in a all motor, motor. Actually, planning the whole is the first step, but to say the pistons are one of the last things is foolish.

not really because say you got a ls motor 9.2cr, so you want higher compression so you go out and buy 12cr pistons, do you know how much that would hinder flame travel and you wouldnt get the full potential of the motor. yeah pistons shouldnt be the last thing but like you said you have to plan it all out so you know what kind of parts your gonna get and how it affect your cr so you can buy the lowests high compression pistons as possible to get max hp out of them without hindering flame travel

for example, you want a 12 cr on your all motor stock 9.2 cr so you can still drive it on the street, so you get the valves so 12 - .03 = 11.7, then you shave the head and the block so say that takes off 1 point ( dont quote me thats jsut a number) 11.7 - 1 = 10.7. so instead of having to get 12 cr pistons, you only gotta get 10.7 cr pistons which would help with the flame travel to get max hp. but of course the cr isnt the only variable in this whole thing but its one point of view, and there are alot of other factors

Flame travel as in the path of the ignition spark from ionization at the plug to detonation? I understand the whole concept of combustion efficiency, hotspots blah, blah, blah, it's one of those things that is almost negligable since it is built into the design, as in, it's something that is just going to happen. The theory behind it, is mapping the path of the burned air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber to read effectivness, and there by being able to shape the chamber for a more efficient burn. Hardly something the average or even experianced engine builder can just do, also why many places that port don't just hand out info.

Not that hotspots are negligable, wouldn't want you to read into what I said and have a shit fit, since they can cause detonation and damage motors. But more so that they come from damaged parts like nicks in pistons, poor port jobs, and other places in the chamber that can accumulate excess heat and cause the air/fuel to detonate before TDC, not usually from design flaws in high compression parts in general.

as long as you dont say the wrong thing and misinform people it is all good.

yeah flame travel is more of a theory other then pure fact, thats why when i talk about hindering flame travel i just kind of talk about might be losing potential hp.

when i talk about flame travel i am talking about the way the air, fuel, and flame travel. with a piston that is domed too high when the flame is circulating through the comubstion chamber it get interferred with by hte pistons that is sticking up in its way. again all in theory, idk might have been proven fact but as far as i know its theory

hotspots can come from damaged parts but they can also come from new parts, thats why when you get new pistons you shave any sharp edges down so its all smooth because a sharp edge will cause a hotspot and maybe cause detention

again... jesus christ you guys argue more than kids in the 3rd grade! can't we just learn to get along and admit when we are wrong? you don't ALWAYS have to be right, or try and prove you are.. just take it easy!:)

its not having to be right, its more of not misinforming people because if you tell someone who doesnt know something, you tell them something wrong and now they think what they know is right when they are really wrong.

like for example in that other post someone asked if you could put a gsr im on a ls, after i had said no it wont work, 2 or 3 other people who were misinformed, probably by other people, came on and said it would work, not trying to put a blame on them, i mean its not there fault they were misinformed. but they said it would work, when it wouldnt.

not trying to prove people wrong, just trying to get the right facts out so that people know what is right.

yeah yeah, i'm just talking about you and jcrx... seems like you guys hate eachother with a passion :p

Who gives a shit, let it go.

yeah yeah, i'm just talking about you and jcrx... seems like you guys hate eachother with a passion :p

no i dont hate jcrx, he is very knowledgable, one of the few that are on this board

Thanks, you're no slouch yourself.

wouldnt a mugen head gasket and ctr pistons net you a good compression? you can always change those out later if you wish. i would highly think over shaving the head before you do it, since you cant put it back to how it was.

im gonna throw a quick question in. how much compressoin on a street n/a car is too much on pump fuel? i would think anything over 11.1 or 11.5.1 woudl be a touch of overkill.

dont type r's come 11.5 stock, so i woudl say 12 or 12.5, just make sure you tune it real good