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DR mod...


Fuster Cluck
06-14-2004, 09:36 PM
How much is the Drop Resistor mod? And what does it do exactly? Thanks in advance

VQmax95
06-15-2004, 02:50 AM
its free, and it makes the transmission shift at full line pressure all the time(as far as I know).

Fuster Cluck
06-15-2004, 12:36 PM
It's free? How do you "install it"? I believe the ride wouldnt be as smooth with the tranny shiftin at full line pressure all the time...but, I guess you can get a WOT switch, right?

VQmax95
06-15-2004, 02:02 PM
I'm not exactly sure, but I think it involves pulling a fuse or something similar. I haven't done a whole lot or research on it.

Fuster Cluck
06-15-2004, 03:30 PM
Yeah I heard a sensor needs to be disconnected...I just gotta find which one...

SledgehammerVette
06-15-2004, 07:10 PM
It costs about $50 in reality. You'll need a switch so it only runs full line pressure at WOT. And you'll need a Tranny Cooler that you can get at Pep Boys because if you plan on doing the DR Mod I highly suggest a Tranny cooler.

Here's more info:

The drop resistor mod disconnects the dropping resistor in the transmission control circuit. This forces the transmission to run a maximum line pressure. This makes the shifts VERY hard. Even an otherwise stock car will chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift with this mod.

The downside is that part-throttle shifts are very jerky. The solution is to wire a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) switch that disconnects the resistor only at full throttle.

Here's Jime's writeup:

Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by Jime
Ok here is where the drop resistor is located. Front side of the drivers side strut tower.
http://members.rogers.com/maximase/DR1.jpg

There is a connector with two wires attached to the resistor. The electrical drawing of the drop resistor looks like this. You must cut one of the wires, doesn't matter which one but cut it at least 2 or 3 inches from the connector so you have room to strip and connect to it.
http://members.rogers.com/maximase/DR2.jpg
Strip a small section on either end of the wire you just cut and attach a wire to each end by soldering or use a connector. Run the two wires to a switch. Either a WOT micro switch (preferably) as per the picture or a manual switch.
http://members.rogers.com/maximase/DR3.jpg
I have a small L bracket I made that attaches it to the intake manifold bolt closest to the throttle body.
http://members.rogers.com/maximase/DR4.jpg
Keep adjusting the switch position until the throttle hits it just before or when it hits the WOT position. It is imperative that this switch be a Normally Closed (NC) switch so the circuit is always made until you hit WOT at which point it opens and effectively disconnects the drop resistor from the circuit.
You can do the same thing by running the two wires to the cabin and hooking to manual switch (5 amp rating or higher) but I much prefer the WOT switch because you never have to worry about turning it on or off. You have enough to think about when racing without another stupid switch to turn on and off.
The micro switch I use is rated at 10 amps and I got it from an applicance shop where it is used in a microwave.
Most switches of this type are Normally Open (NO) and this will NOT work.

I realize these are pretty crude instructions but I am basically a grease monkey these days not a computer nerd.

Fuster Cluck
06-15-2004, 08:17 PM
Thanks man, appreciate the help. I'm gonna give this a shot

bk2kmax
06-16-2004, 12:09 AM
Thanks man, appreciate the help. I'm gonna give this a shot

There's only one thing that was left out and that is that once you do this you will have a CEL on constantly. I highly recommend you running this set-up only for race mode competition only, preferrably at a track.

Remember this shouldn't be set up as a long term operation as I'm certain that Nissan never intended for our cars to be set up that way otherwise it would've been stock like that on the showroom floor.

Once you reset the CEL it will go away but if you haven't returned the DR mod back to stock before doing so it will still be there.

Good luck though.

THT
06-16-2004, 01:57 AM
Making the L bracket was the hardest part IMO...took me 10 minutes with a dremel. Best 10 minutes of my day. :D

~THT

Fuster Cluck
06-16-2004, 04:49 PM
I'm plannin on gettin a Cattman Y-pipe, Weapon-R CAI, and the Greddy SP2 exhaust....is there anything I should do before getting this installed?.....I'm gettin wheels too...I dont think that's a problem. I cant do most of this myself, especially the wheels, I have zero tools though, so I'm just goin to a shop...

So yeah...anything I need to let the shop know or anything?

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