The "rust" panic and some basic surface care

I've been reading the threads going on about people having problems with rust coming from beneath the paint on their rear hatches. While this may be a very real problem for some trucks, their posts have caused other owners to claim foul with Nissan for surface contaminants which are beyond Nissans control:

That being surface rust coming from rail dust, brake dust and metallic contaminants on the back of Xterras.

This is most commonly showing up as tiny black or dark rust color marks on the paint. It's common to Xterras and probably most SUV's with poor air flow on the rear of their hatches (see picture below).
http://www.xterra4x4.com/images/bin/rust/rustspot.jpg

After giving my truck a thorough cleaning (yeah, it happens every once and a while), I noticed that I had developed the same spots over this winter. Realizing this is going to be an ongoing issue I decided to take care of it myself.

Any automotive shop with a decent amount of car cleaners should have detailing clay bars. Mothers car care has one, but it goes for about $24. For now I decided to buy Meguires newest addition that includes a clay bar and detailing solution for $9.

http://www.xterra4x4.com/images/bin/rust/clay.jpg

Removing the spots is very easy. With a clean paint surface you use the detailing spray to lubricate the surface. Then run the bar over the spots until they disappear. It's pretty much like having a pencil eraser for your paint. I was actually amazed at how much surface dirt came off also. Within less than 10 minutes I had removed all the spots and a long standing stain that I had not been able to buff out when waxing.

Owners should really consider having a clay bar around for cleaning their trucks. If you don't take care of it now the rust can eventually cause damage that won't be so easy to remove.

The other area I was going to mention is under the fender flares. Most offroaders notice that the rear wheel well flares catch tons of mud and dirt. If you resist the temptation to keep the mud on until next Monday to show off to your co-workers, it's pretty easy to get off in a spray-n-wash on the way back from offroading.

I decided to check the front flares, which don't have the extra lip that catches so much dirt on the rear.
http://www.xterra4x4.com/images/bin/rust/flarepiece.jpg

Yup. More dirt and mud had worked its way under there too. I also noticed that the same rust specs described above had begun to form.
http://www.xterra4x4.com/images/bin/rust/flares.jpg

So if you're cleaning your truck up this spring, make sure you pull the flares off, and clean everything up. A extra coat of wax on the paint underneath couldn't hurt things.

Oh no...Schlud cleaned his truck! :confused:

I've been using the Meguiars scratch and swirl remover polish (#9, I think) or whatever to remove the debris off my hatch. It has worked well. I imagine the clay bar probably works with less effort though...I should get one.

I agree 100% that most people reporting problems don't really have a problem and I've mentioned that over and over again on the other boards. You tell people to polish and wax and they're like "I paid $25K for this truck, why doesn't Nissan take care of that?" Nissan is NOT responsible for proper paint care after purchase folks! They just don't understand that road debris and improper care breaks down the paint...especially with the new environmentally friendly, water based paints used on new cars. Sheesh!!!

Hopefully you followed up with a good wax coat (I'm sure you did), as it will help keep a lot of that stuff from attaching again...atleast for awhile.

I need to remove my plastic parts too and clean underneath. We all know that dirt traps moisture and trapped moisture is not good for steel, so that's a very good idea.

I usually use the Meguiars #9 swirl remover, the #7 show car glaze, and the #26 paste wax when I do mine. Then, I use the quick detailer to clean things up. Works well. However, I know some people using Blitz wax on black cars and they are getting mirror-like finishes, so I may have to try that someday.

Did you remove your roof rack too when you did this? Since mud doesn't really get up there, I'm not too worried about it, but maybe I'll do that this summer for the first time. Oh, and were the flare pieces hard to remove or reinstall?

Nice work Schlud. now, go get it dirty again! :D

BTW, it may seem like overkill, but cleaning and waxing in the doorjams and such isn't a bad idea either, along with taking care of the door seals and such.

Well this was the first step in my spring prep. I didn't rewax the hatch because I'm going to be stripping the wax soon.

I took off the roof rack and basket. Cleaned the doorjams, rocker panels, door seals, hosed out the skids, etc.

I like to get a good coating of wax on the truck before a lot of offroading. It helps protect the paint from all the junk and branches you come into contact with

I like to get it dirty, but I also want to keep the truck in good shape too.

Wax now, or paint later. :D

I have noticed these dots showing up on my Yellow X and didn't equate that to the rust problems people were complaining about. They come off with some rubbing and seem to be predominately on the back hatch where the air flow is not conducive to keeping the back clean.

If they were true rust spots from a bad paint job, they wouldn't come off. I haven't seen a good clear pic of anybody's 'rust' problem so I have always been a little skeptical of the problem being other than surface contaminants. Bandwagoners? :dogpile:

Yes, that's the problem.

Rust coming from under the paint is a real Nissan issue. But now some XOC members have everyone in such a panic that they are running to their dealers when they see these small spots.

By the way, try the clay instead. It's not abrasive. Rubbing will cause wear to the paint, just like you're using to remove the spots.

But they could be what is starting atleast some of the rust cases. Surface contaminents can and will eat away and pit the paint. Once this happens, moisure gets in and mixes with our friendly contaminents. Where there was once paint and primer, there is now a moist contaminent to start the rust factory underneath. That's why it is important to remove these spots before they become a larger problem. A good wax job will go a long way in keeping things from sticking again, or atleast make them easier to remove. I know everyone wants to show off their dirt, but it's really best to keep your truck clean when you're not offroading.

BTW, nice post at XOC Schlud. A post about asking the pussies to clean their rear hatch is sure to get attention! :D SOunds like some porn movie title! I wonder if any of them will listen this time?

clay bar info (http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk8.html)