any advice for strut replacement?

Hey all...this week I'll be swaping out my OEM worn out front boat-o-matic struts on my 98 for some new sensa-trac's. Anyone have any words of wisdom that could make it go smoothly? This is my first strut swap. I've done the rear air shox, but they were cake....not steering knuckles or anything.

Thanks for the help!!!

Mikey just finished baggin his Aurora...might be somethin yer interested in.

Baggin = lowered ;)

I went by Sears auto to check their prices on a Sensa-track install, and they said that you'll need to do a front end alignment after the install. Not sure about the R/R details, but I'd be curious to know what involved since I need the same done on my 97. I think the whole thing was going to be over $300 P&L.

I was going to shop the parts, and then shop the labor since I wasn't inclined to rent removal tools or do an alignment.

well, I did the passenger side today. It wasnt too bad. I purchased the struts online for $60/strut and free shipping. I still have to get it all aligned when I'm done though. I doubt that the sears thing includes the alignment....check it out. One thing a shop won't likely do is take the time to clean and grease all of your mounts and bearings if you don't replace them. It's not that hard to do. If you need new brakes, it's a good time to do that too. Anyways..I think I'm good on getting this job done now.

Zimaad, when you get them both done, let me know how you like the ride - if the Monroe's make it firmer, or too firm. I don't think my '98 rides as "boaty" as my mother-in-law's 95 used to, but I don't want it to ride as firm as my wife's GTP (some of the lovely Wisconsin roads are bone-jarring in that car) or the Bonneville GXP I test-drove (not impressed).I am probably going to do front struts and rear shocks before the snow flies (should be around 90k on my '98 by then).

--Robert

I just finished doing my front struts, brakes, and putting on new urethane sway bar bushings in the front. I haven't had it aligned yet, but it corners MUCH better. It isn't too stiff at all. It seems to mostly cut down on excessive bouncing. But, this is expected since the spring/spring rate and not damping/damping rate is what predominately controls stiffness. If you are going to do this yourself, let me know and I can tell you a few good tools to have for the job and a few tips that'll make life easier.

I'd be interested to know what tools, tricks you used and can share (?) I wanted to hear about the ride characteristics which seem to be pretty good from what I can gather from your initial test drive. The bushing replacement probably tightened the ride a bit also.

So, can we get a thumbs up on the Sensa-track product?

Zimaad, I'd also appreciate knowing the part numbers for the struts and bushings, and where you ordered them. I'd love to have the tips handy for when my buddy and I tackle this (in about 4-5 months :-)

The front strut part number is monroe sensa-trac's #71684. I ordered mine from http://www.a-1shocks.com/ (just call them..it's easier) for about $60/strut. That's $15 cheaper/strut than anywhere else I could find. If you have the $$ available, go ahead and replace the bearing plate on each side. That is monroe part number 902972 (need 2). I dunno how much A1 has them for, but they are typically at least $60 a piece. I didnt have the money so I cleaned and lubricated as best I could the existing bearings. For the strut replacement, you need a pretty big socket to get at the strut-nuckle bolts and the top strut bolt. I believe it's 15/16. Also, you need a T-50 torx ratchet driver. The top nut on the OEM struts(the 15/16 one) is screwed onto the piston shaft of the strut. If you turn the nut, the whole shaft turns, so you need to hold the middle down with the T-50 torx while using an adjustable wrench or 15/16 wrench to take the nut off. Getting the nut on the new strut has the same issue, but the sensa-tracs have a 6mm allen head instead of the torx. A 6mm ratchet tip allen would be a LOT easier than a normal allen wrench as you have to turn these suckers pretty good. The strut-nuckle bolts are on there pretty good and I had to use a breaker bar with a few foot pipe extension to break them free. You don't need to retain the bolt side to get the nut off because the bolt is splined into the nuckle. Once you get the nut off, use a hammer to bang the bolt out. When you get the nuckle off, dont just let it hang there. Support it with something(I used a jack) so the drive shafts dont get messed up. When I first drove the car it made horrible clunking noises every time I hit bumps and dips. I guess the struts "seated" better and I had to retighten the top nut using an adjustable wrench and 6mm allen again...so, no need to start cussing like I did when you hear this! Also, make sure you mark the relation of all the parts to each other before taking everything apart. You want reference to the car and the pieces of the strut pieces to other strut pieces. Strut-nuckle bolts get torqued to 136ft-lb. Strut-body mounts get 35ft-lb. Wheel lugs get 100ft-lb.

For the sway bar bushings, I used Energy Suspension part # 9.5164. Be careful with the frame nuts...they wanted to cross thread easily. For the end links I used part # 9.8120. The old links were a pain to get out. Squirt a bunch of penetrating oil on them...then tackle the sway bar bushings and come back after it soaks in. I basically had to get a hammer and beat the snot out of the bolt to get it to slide through the bushing. To put on the new ones, just jack up the steering nuckle a bit to get it all to fit and bolt it up then make sure the urethane parts are resting correctly in the holes. A little tap w/ a rubber mallet gets them to seat correctly.

Tomorrow the car is getting aligned and new feet put on. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Mikey just finished baggin his Aurora...might be somethin yer interested in.

Baggin = lowered ;) WHICH MIKEY AND WHICH BAG SYSTEM DID HE USE? I'M GONA BAG MINE AND STILL DECIDING ON WHICH SYSTEM.

Thanks zimaad! I am needing to do this. The rears went easy, but I was dubious about the front, which is also where more work is needed.

This morning I went and picked up my car. Man it rides so much better with less "rock-n-roll". It corners much better and takes bumps without resonating up and down a few times now! Definately an improvement over OEM in my opinion.

i didn't bag it. jim, bagging means airbags, i used eibach drop springs w/ kyb struts, 1.3/1" drop

I used the term loosely ;) and evidently incorrectly

Dropped....sorry

RSM suggested I drop my car, 1.4 in the back 1.2 in the front I think..something like that :D