Acclereation...!!!!
Veetec
01-23-2002, 07:05 AM
Is it normal that stock VTEC Ludes (5th gen) feel kind of slow in the lower rpm while acceleration? When VTEC is kicking in everything is fine but I thought it would be more powerful in the lower rpm, too. Is it possible that itīs because the engine has just run about 880 miles yet? Or did I "drove it in" (dunno the correct word for it) wrong? My Honda brochure said that I shouldnīt accelerate fast in the first 600 miles so I shifted at about 3.500rpm during that time. Now Iīm kicking it more but I havenīt kicked it to the maximum yet. Any suggestions about that? Thanx in advance!!
drift
01-23-2002, 08:00 AM
off the line, my Prelude isnt exactly stellar, either... but hammering the throttle once the motor is properly broken in is much more exhilerating.
just wait til the break in period is complete
just wait til the break in period is complete
Veetec
01-23-2002, 08:11 AM
Originally posted by drift
off the line, my Prelude isnt exactly stellar, either... but hammering the throttle once the motor is properly broken in is much more exhilerating.
just wait til the break in period is complete Do you think I can already "kick" the engine? Iīve owned 3 Hondas (5th gen Civic, 4th gen Prelude, and now my 5th gen Prelude) in about 5 years but all of them were already broken in so I have no real idea how to do it best. Another reason could be the stock tires. IMO I donīt have much grip with them. Sometimes I even have the feeling that the wheels are spinning while accelerating in higher gears and rpm too but Iīm not really sure about this. I think Iīll get some Bridgestone S-03 PP as soon as possible.
off the line, my Prelude isnt exactly stellar, either... but hammering the throttle once the motor is properly broken in is much more exhilerating.
just wait til the break in period is complete Do you think I can already "kick" the engine? Iīve owned 3 Hondas (5th gen Civic, 4th gen Prelude, and now my 5th gen Prelude) in about 5 years but all of them were already broken in so I have no real idea how to do it best. Another reason could be the stock tires. IMO I donīt have much grip with them. Sometimes I even have the feeling that the wheels are spinning while accelerating in higher gears and rpm too but Iīm not really sure about this. I think Iīll get some Bridgestone S-03 PP as soon as possible.
supafly1024
01-23-2002, 08:47 AM
Stock 5th G's can feel a bit sluggish off the line but not that bad. If I really get on it off the line I can get the wheels to chirp and my Prelude is an automatic with the sport shift transmission.
fritz_269
01-23-2002, 02:47 PM
This is the torque plot (at the wheels) of a mostly stock 5g prelude.
It should be fairly obvious why you really don't get going until VTEC kicks in. (It is a four cylinder engine after all...) :cool:
http://www.ntpog.org/dyno/Oscar-torque.jpg
It should be fairly obvious why you really don't get going until VTEC kicks in. (It is a four cylinder engine after all...) :cool:
http://www.ntpog.org/dyno/Oscar-torque.jpg
Veetec
01-23-2002, 03:24 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
This is the torque plot (at the wheels) of a mostly stock 5g prelude.
It should be fairly obvious why you really don't get going until VTEC kicks in. (It is a four cylinder engine after all...) :cool:
http://www.ntpog.org/dyno/Oscar-torque.jpg What do you mean with "mostly"? What mods does it have got? And is there anything I can do to get a better low end without hurting the middle and top end? (except of a turbo/ sc)
(It is a four cylinder engine after all...) [/QUOTE] My old 4th gen Lude with a 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC engine with 133hp (plus intake, chip and exhaust) felt stronger at the low end! ;) Or I just got that feeling because it was hella loud!:D
This is the torque plot (at the wheels) of a mostly stock 5g prelude.
It should be fairly obvious why you really don't get going until VTEC kicks in. (It is a four cylinder engine after all...) :cool:
http://www.ntpog.org/dyno/Oscar-torque.jpg What do you mean with "mostly"? What mods does it have got? And is there anything I can do to get a better low end without hurting the middle and top end? (except of a turbo/ sc)
(It is a four cylinder engine after all...) [/QUOTE] My old 4th gen Lude with a 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC engine with 133hp (plus intake, chip and exhaust) felt stronger at the low end! ;) Or I just got that feeling because it was hella loud!:D
supafly1024
01-23-2002, 03:42 PM
I think that my header made the most difference in my low end power but I already had my intake and exhaust when I got my header. If you get a header without having an intake or exhaust then you may not notice that much of a difference because your airflow is still somewhat restricted. If you do decide to put a header on then go for the 4-2-1 design because the 4-1 will sacrifice your low end power for high end power.
BUFF_dragon
01-23-2002, 03:59 PM
Headers actually hurt bottom end... not much, but just a little. they mainly help your top, a little on mid, and hurt low. Higher flow only helps when there is air to push, and at lower ranges, theres not alot to push. theres really nothing that I have ever heard of to help lower end without really hurting mid and top.
Just my 2
Just my 2
Veetec
01-23-2002, 04:14 PM
Originally posted by BUFF_dragon
Headers actually hurt bottom end... not much, but just a little. they mainly help your top, a little on mid, and hurt low. Higher flow only helps when there is air to push, and at lower ranges, theres not alot to push. theres really nothing that I have ever heard of to help lower end without really hurting mid and top.
Just my 2 I thought so...! But it doesnīt matter that much and I didnīt want to complain about my Lude. Itīs a great car IMO and Iīm glad that Iīve bought it!:) :) Just wanted to be sure about that.
Headers actually hurt bottom end... not much, but just a little. they mainly help your top, a little on mid, and hurt low. Higher flow only helps when there is air to push, and at lower ranges, theres not alot to push. theres really nothing that I have ever heard of to help lower end without really hurting mid and top.
Just my 2 I thought so...! But it doesnīt matter that much and I didnīt want to complain about my Lude. Itīs a great car IMO and Iīm glad that Iīve bought it!:) :) Just wanted to be sure about that.
supafly1024
01-23-2002, 04:15 PM
4-1 headers will hurt bottom end but 4-2-1 headers will not. Well actually 4-2-1 headers could hurt bottom end, but a good header won't, like DC Sports for example.
supafly1024
01-23-2002, 04:19 PM
This dyno chart is for a Civic SI with DC Sports 4-2-1 headers, the power gains for the Prelude wouldn't be too much different. Notice that there is at no time a loss of power.
http://www.dcsports.com/Dyno/421stock01.gif
http://www.dcsports.com/Dyno/421stock01.gif
fritz_269
01-23-2002, 07:56 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
What do you mean with "mostly"? What mods does it have got? And is there anything I can do to get a better low end without hurting the middle and top end? (except of a turbo/ sc) 1998 Base, Sport Shift, H22A 2.2L VTEC - Blue line is stock, red line is with airbox & filter removed.
Best thing you can probably do is get a decent VTEC controller. If you jump to the big lobes earlier, you get a nice smooth transition and the power climbs steadily rather than jumping up suddenly. A mild cat-back probably won't hurt (although it may not help much either).
If you want a lot more power down low, look for a JRSC or N2O. :eek:
My old 4th gen Lude with a 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC engine with 133hp (plus intake, chip and exhaust) felt stronger at the low end! ;) Or I just got that feeling because it was hella loud!:D
Your B20 was no slouch and had a seriously long stroke, but the H22A still has more torque throughout. (I don't have a dyno of the B20 handy though.) The big difference is probably the VTEC spike on the H22 which makes everthing before it seem wimpy. :D
What do you mean with "mostly"? What mods does it have got? And is there anything I can do to get a better low end without hurting the middle and top end? (except of a turbo/ sc) 1998 Base, Sport Shift, H22A 2.2L VTEC - Blue line is stock, red line is with airbox & filter removed.
Best thing you can probably do is get a decent VTEC controller. If you jump to the big lobes earlier, you get a nice smooth transition and the power climbs steadily rather than jumping up suddenly. A mild cat-back probably won't hurt (although it may not help much either).
If you want a lot more power down low, look for a JRSC or N2O. :eek:
My old 4th gen Lude with a 2.0i SOHC non-VTEC engine with 133hp (plus intake, chip and exhaust) felt stronger at the low end! ;) Or I just got that feeling because it was hella loud!:D
Your B20 was no slouch and had a seriously long stroke, but the H22A still has more torque throughout. (I don't have a dyno of the B20 handy though.) The big difference is probably the VTEC spike on the H22 which makes everthing before it seem wimpy. :D
Veetec
01-23-2002, 08:36 PM
Originally posted by supafly1024
This dyno chart is for a Civic SI with DC Sports 4-2-1 headers, the power gains for the Prelude wouldn't be too much different. Notice that there is at no time a loss of power.
http://www.dcsports.com/Dyno/421stock01.gif
I see! But the problem is that a DC-Sports header will cost me about $600 over here in germany and IMO 2,65hp is not much for its price. Germany is really expensive when itīs about aftermarket parts for asian cars.:rolleyes:
This dyno chart is for a Civic SI with DC Sports 4-2-1 headers, the power gains for the Prelude wouldn't be too much different. Notice that there is at no time a loss of power.
http://www.dcsports.com/Dyno/421stock01.gif
I see! But the problem is that a DC-Sports header will cost me about $600 over here in germany and IMO 2,65hp is not much for its price. Germany is really expensive when itīs about aftermarket parts for asian cars.:rolleyes:
Veetec
01-23-2002, 08:47 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
Your B20 was no slouch and had a seriously long stroke, but the H22A still has more torque throughout. (I don't have a dyno of the B20 handy though.) The big difference is probably the VTEC spike on the H22 which makes everthing before it seem wimpy. :D Yea, that could be true! :D My old Lude was a really nice car, too! Really loud but nice. ;) And I couldnīt even say goodbye to it!! :(
A VTEC-controller...? But my engine is bone stock (going to buy a K&N drop-in maybe)! How big will be the gain? Does anybody know this JR VAPC (or anything like that)? Is it any good?
I was also thinking about the JR sc. But Iīll need at least a year to get the money together and mileage becomes worse, too! And gas is really expensive over here.:( NOS is totally illegal!!! But I donīt trust in it anyways.
Your B20 was no slouch and had a seriously long stroke, but the H22A still has more torque throughout. (I don't have a dyno of the B20 handy though.) The big difference is probably the VTEC spike on the H22 which makes everthing before it seem wimpy. :D Yea, that could be true! :D My old Lude was a really nice car, too! Really loud but nice. ;) And I couldnīt even say goodbye to it!! :(
A VTEC-controller...? But my engine is bone stock (going to buy a K&N drop-in maybe)! How big will be the gain? Does anybody know this JR VAPC (or anything like that)? Is it any good?
I was also thinking about the JR sc. But Iīll need at least a year to get the money together and mileage becomes worse, too! And gas is really expensive over here.:( NOS is totally illegal!!! But I donīt trust in it anyways.
Jacques
01-23-2002, 10:32 PM
The Jr. VPAC (by Jackson Racing) can be used on n/a cars if you leave the boost timing controller wires unused. Theoretically, it would work similarly to APEXi's V-AFC.
However, the V-AFC has the advantage of adjusting fuel delivery. The VPAC cannot optimize the car's fuel setting...keep in mind, it has only a knob to adjust the VTEC engagement only, adjusting fuel/timing "automatically", so JR claims.
However, the V-AFC has the advantage of adjusting fuel delivery. The VPAC cannot optimize the car's fuel setting...keep in mind, it has only a knob to adjust the VTEC engagement only, adjusting fuel/timing "automatically", so JR claims.
fritz_269
01-23-2002, 10:46 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
A VTEC-controller...? But my engine is bone stock (going to buy a K&N drop-in maybe)! How big will be the gain?
A VTEC controller alone won't give you any more peak power, but it will smooth out the big bump in the power curve. It doesn't matter that you're bone stock.
Read this:
http://members.aol.com/ryoucold/prelude/apexi/apexi.htm
:cool:
A VTEC-controller...? But my engine is bone stock (going to buy a K&N drop-in maybe)! How big will be the gain?
A VTEC controller alone won't give you any more peak power, but it will smooth out the big bump in the power curve. It doesn't matter that you're bone stock.
Read this:
http://members.aol.com/ryoucold/prelude/apexi/apexi.htm
:cool:
buh_buh
01-24-2002, 12:43 AM
with a VTEC controller, how do you know where to engage the VTEC at? If you set it at too low RPM can you wreck the car? Is it easy to mess it up?
Veetec
01-24-2002, 06:09 AM
Originally posted by Jacques
The Jr. VPAC (by Jackson Racing) can be used on n/a cars if you leave the boost timing controller wires unused. Theoretically, it would work similarly to APEXi's V-AFC.
However, the V-AFC has the advantage of adjusting fuel delivery. The VPAC cannot optimize the car's fuel setting...keep in mind, it has only a knob to adjust the VTEC engagement only, adjusting fuel/timing "automatically", so JR claims. Okay, I see! The problem is that it has to be adjusted on a dyno and I dunno about any shops over here in germany who could do that!:confused: What gains would I get on a stock car with just a removed resonator and a K&N drop-in filter? And then if I would also put a new exhaust on it (letīs say one of DC-Sports)?
The Jr. VPAC (by Jackson Racing) can be used on n/a cars if you leave the boost timing controller wires unused. Theoretically, it would work similarly to APEXi's V-AFC.
However, the V-AFC has the advantage of adjusting fuel delivery. The VPAC cannot optimize the car's fuel setting...keep in mind, it has only a knob to adjust the VTEC engagement only, adjusting fuel/timing "automatically", so JR claims. Okay, I see! The problem is that it has to be adjusted on a dyno and I dunno about any shops over here in germany who could do that!:confused: What gains would I get on a stock car with just a removed resonator and a K&N drop-in filter? And then if I would also put a new exhaust on it (letīs say one of DC-Sports)?
supafly1024
01-24-2002, 08:26 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
I see! But the problem is that a DC-Sports header will cost me about $600 over here in germany and IMO 2,65hp is not much for its price. Germany is really expensive when itīs about aftermarket parts for asian cars.:rolleyes:
Geez, that is a lot of money for a header. You're right, it's not worth it for the money, but if you get an intake and exhaust sometime in the future then the header might just be worth the money if you're trying to squeeze more power out of your engine.
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too.
I see! But the problem is that a DC-Sports header will cost me about $600 over here in germany and IMO 2,65hp is not much for its price. Germany is really expensive when itīs about aftermarket parts for asian cars.:rolleyes:
Geez, that is a lot of money for a header. You're right, it's not worth it for the money, but if you get an intake and exhaust sometime in the future then the header might just be worth the money if you're trying to squeeze more power out of your engine.
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too.
buh_buh
01-24-2002, 10:38 AM
Originally posted by supafly1024
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too.
can I wreck th engine if I set it wrong? How do I know what to set it at to get optimum performance?
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too.
can I wreck th engine if I set it wrong? How do I know what to set it at to get optimum performance?
supafly1024
01-24-2002, 11:04 AM
Originally posted by buh_buh
can I wreck th engine if I set it wrong? How do I know what to set it at to get optimum performance?
I'm not sure if you can wreck the engine but I do know you can make your car run bad if you set it wrong. You can always reset all the settings though. As long as you keep the VTEC engagement point above like 4400 RPM and don't go crazy with the fuel settings you should be okay. The only way to really be sure is to get some dyno time with it and set it up there. Most people end up with the VTEC engagement point right around 4400-4500 RPMs and leaning up the fuel some at lower RPMs since Preludes do seem to run a little rich from the factory. Below is something I found at the following address http://prelude.vtec.net/gen5/performance/vtecctrl/field/performance.html it is about the FIELD controller but the settings for a A'pexi VAFC might not be all that different. Go here to read more about VTEC controllers in general
http://prelude.vtec.net/gen5/performance/vtecctrl/ this page tells you why to not set the VTEC engagement point too low. Notice that below they say to set the VTEC transition to 4200-4400 but lately I hear most people setting it at 4400-4500.
Optimal Settings **
VTEC Transition Point 4200-4400 RPMs
Fuel Settings
RPM +/-%
1000 -4%
2000 -4%
3000 -4%
4000 -4%
5000 -4%
6000 0%
7000 0%
8000 0%
can I wreck th engine if I set it wrong? How do I know what to set it at to get optimum performance?
I'm not sure if you can wreck the engine but I do know you can make your car run bad if you set it wrong. You can always reset all the settings though. As long as you keep the VTEC engagement point above like 4400 RPM and don't go crazy with the fuel settings you should be okay. The only way to really be sure is to get some dyno time with it and set it up there. Most people end up with the VTEC engagement point right around 4400-4500 RPMs and leaning up the fuel some at lower RPMs since Preludes do seem to run a little rich from the factory. Below is something I found at the following address http://prelude.vtec.net/gen5/performance/vtecctrl/field/performance.html it is about the FIELD controller but the settings for a A'pexi VAFC might not be all that different. Go here to read more about VTEC controllers in general
http://prelude.vtec.net/gen5/performance/vtecctrl/ this page tells you why to not set the VTEC engagement point too low. Notice that below they say to set the VTEC transition to 4200-4400 but lately I hear most people setting it at 4400-4500.
Optimal Settings **
VTEC Transition Point 4200-4400 RPMs
Fuel Settings
RPM +/-%
1000 -4%
2000 -4%
3000 -4%
4000 -4%
5000 -4%
6000 0%
7000 0%
8000 0%
Veetec
01-24-2002, 12:39 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
A VTEC controller alone won't give you any more peak power, but it will smooth out the big bump in the power curve. It doesn't matter that you're bone stock.
Read this:
http://members.aol.com/ryoucold/prelude/apexi/apexi.htm
:cool: Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
A VTEC controller alone won't give you any more peak power, but it will smooth out the big bump in the power curve. It doesn't matter that you're bone stock.
Read this:
http://members.aol.com/ryoucold/prelude/apexi/apexi.htm
:cool: Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
buh_buh
01-24-2002, 12:47 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
me either. But I'll try to find out.
Thanks for all the info guys.
Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
me either. But I'll try to find out.
Thanks for all the info guys.
supafly1024
01-24-2002, 12:59 PM
No problem! :D
fritz_269
01-24-2002, 02:41 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
I know they do exist in germany: http://www.tat-rd.com/
Try web searches, yellow pages, asking friends, asking performance part shops, and the best option is to go to car shows and ask around...
A chassis dyno with a wideband O2 sensor & a competent operator is the only way to really get the most out of an A/F controller. Around the states, it's around $100/hr for the service, and with only the A/F controller to adjust, it shouldn't take more than 1 hr. If you get adjustable cam gears too, it might take 2hrs.
Good luck. :cool:
Sounds very good!! But like Iīve already said I dunno about any shop who could adjust it properly over here!:confused: :(
I know they do exist in germany: http://www.tat-rd.com/
Try web searches, yellow pages, asking friends, asking performance part shops, and the best option is to go to car shows and ask around...
A chassis dyno with a wideband O2 sensor & a competent operator is the only way to really get the most out of an A/F controller. Around the states, it's around $100/hr for the service, and with only the A/F controller to adjust, it shouldn't take more than 1 hr. If you get adjustable cam gears too, it might take 2hrs.
Good luck. :cool:
Veetec
01-24-2002, 09:43 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
I know they do exist in germany: http://www.tat-rd.com/
Try web searches, yellow pages, asking friends, asking performance part shops, and the best option is to go to car shows and ask around...
A chassis dyno with a wideband O2 sensor & a competent operator is the only way to really get the most out of an A/F controller. Around the states, it's around $100/hr for the service, and with only the A/F controller to adjust, it shouldn't take more than 1 hr. If you get adjustable cam gears too, it might take 2hrs.
Good luck. :cool: Okay! I know of several dynos over here but I thought it had to be adjusted by somebody who knows about it. The problem is that VTEC-controllers arenīt street-legal over here so that nearly all shops donīt have got any experience with it. Or can anybody with a little knowledge about dynos handle that? Is it possible to switch easily between the stock setting and the new setting because of mileage? And about what gain would I see with the VAFC, the cam gears and removed resonator box with a K&N drop-in all together?
Sorry for all these (stupid?) questions but itīs really not easy to modify a Honda over here. Most shops only know how to install headers, exhaust systems, coilovers,..... so I need any info I can get! So thanx a lot for the good info!!!:)
I know they do exist in germany: http://www.tat-rd.com/
Try web searches, yellow pages, asking friends, asking performance part shops, and the best option is to go to car shows and ask around...
A chassis dyno with a wideband O2 sensor & a competent operator is the only way to really get the most out of an A/F controller. Around the states, it's around $100/hr for the service, and with only the A/F controller to adjust, it shouldn't take more than 1 hr. If you get adjustable cam gears too, it might take 2hrs.
Good luck. :cool: Okay! I know of several dynos over here but I thought it had to be adjusted by somebody who knows about it. The problem is that VTEC-controllers arenīt street-legal over here so that nearly all shops donīt have got any experience with it. Or can anybody with a little knowledge about dynos handle that? Is it possible to switch easily between the stock setting and the new setting because of mileage? And about what gain would I see with the VAFC, the cam gears and removed resonator box with a K&N drop-in all together?
Sorry for all these (stupid?) questions but itīs really not easy to modify a Honda over here. Most shops only know how to install headers, exhaust systems, coilovers,..... so I need any info I can get! So thanx a lot for the good info!!!:)
Veetec
01-24-2002, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by supafly1024
Geez, that is a lot of money for a header. You're right, it's not worth it for the money, but if you get an intake and exhaust sometime in the future then the header might just be worth the money if you're trying to squeeze more power out of your engine.
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too. Most shops just want to make money (not dump in some way!) and donīt care much about if parts are really worth their money or not. If I would drive a domestic car most parts would be really cheap and easy to get. But itīs totally different with asian cars!:( But personally I donīt care much about these facts because my Prelude is a really rare car over here and I donīt need to change thousands of parts to like it. Itīs already damn nice stock!!:)
Geez, that is a lot of money for a header. You're right, it's not worth it for the money, but if you get an intake and exhaust sometime in the future then the header might just be worth the money if you're trying to squeeze more power out of your engine.
Buh Buh, about adjusting the VTEC engagement point. I've heard that there is no point in putting it any lower than like 4500 RPM, I think I may have heard of people putting it down to 4400 RPM too. Most shops just want to make money (not dump in some way!) and donīt care much about if parts are really worth their money or not. If I would drive a domestic car most parts would be really cheap and easy to get. But itīs totally different with asian cars!:( But personally I donīt care much about these facts because my Prelude is a really rare car over here and I donīt need to change thousands of parts to like it. Itīs already damn nice stock!!:)
supafly1024
01-25-2002, 08:28 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
Most shops just want to make money (not dump in some way!) and donīt care much about if parts are really worth their money or not. If I would drive a domestic car most parts would be really cheap and easy to get. But itīs totally different with asian cars!:( But personally I donīt care much about these facts because my Prelude is a really rare car over here and I donīt need to change thousands of parts to like it. Itīs already damn nice stock!!:)
Maybe you should try buying your stuff on the internet and having it shipped to your house. The only thing I haven't ordered on the internet for my car is my wheels. Everything else I ordered online because it's cheaper than any shop around here.
Oh yeah and about switching the VTEC controller from regular stock settings to your adjusted settings, I think you can do that pretty easily. I think you can save your settings and switch between the default settings and your settings by pushing a few buttons. I'm not 100% sure because I don't have one yet but I have done a lot of research on them because I'm thinking of buying one myself.
Most shops just want to make money (not dump in some way!) and donīt care much about if parts are really worth their money or not. If I would drive a domestic car most parts would be really cheap and easy to get. But itīs totally different with asian cars!:( But personally I donīt care much about these facts because my Prelude is a really rare car over here and I donīt need to change thousands of parts to like it. Itīs already damn nice stock!!:)
Maybe you should try buying your stuff on the internet and having it shipped to your house. The only thing I haven't ordered on the internet for my car is my wheels. Everything else I ordered online because it's cheaper than any shop around here.
Oh yeah and about switching the VTEC controller from regular stock settings to your adjusted settings, I think you can do that pretty easily. I think you can save your settings and switch between the default settings and your settings by pushing a few buttons. I'm not 100% sure because I don't have one yet but I have done a lot of research on them because I'm thinking of buying one myself.
Veetec
01-25-2002, 09:01 AM
Originally posted by supafly1024
Maybe you should try buying your stuff on the internet and having it shipped to your house. The only thing I haven't ordered on the internet for my car is my wheels. Everything else I ordered online because it's cheaper than any shop around here.
Oh yeah and about switching the VTEC controller from regular stock settings to your adjusted settings, I think you can do that pretty easily. I think you can save your settings and switch between the default settings and your settings by pushing a few buttons. I'm not 100% sure because I don't have one yet but I have done a lot of research on them because I'm thinking of buying one myself. Maybe youīre right! I havenīt tried it yet because it would take several weeks to send the parts from the US to germany.
What have you done to your car yet? Is there anything else I should know about these VAFCs what hasnīt been mentioned yet?
Maybe you should try buying your stuff on the internet and having it shipped to your house. The only thing I haven't ordered on the internet for my car is my wheels. Everything else I ordered online because it's cheaper than any shop around here.
Oh yeah and about switching the VTEC controller from regular stock settings to your adjusted settings, I think you can do that pretty easily. I think you can save your settings and switch between the default settings and your settings by pushing a few buttons. I'm not 100% sure because I don't have one yet but I have done a lot of research on them because I'm thinking of buying one myself. Maybe youīre right! I havenīt tried it yet because it would take several weeks to send the parts from the US to germany.
What have you done to your car yet? Is there anything else I should know about these VAFCs what hasnīt been mentioned yet?
supafly1024
01-25-2002, 10:49 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
Maybe youīre right! I havenīt tried it yet because it would take several weeks to send the parts from the US to germany.
What have you done to your car yet? Is there anything else I should know about these VAFCs what hasnīt been mentioned yet?
Yeah, it make take a little while to ship the parts but I think that it would be well worth it when you consider the price difference. If you want to know more about the VAFC click on this link http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_vafc.pdf that should tell you some more about it. As far as what I've done to my car...well as far as performance goes I've put an intake, header, and exhaust on it.
Maybe youīre right! I havenīt tried it yet because it would take several weeks to send the parts from the US to germany.
What have you done to your car yet? Is there anything else I should know about these VAFCs what hasnīt been mentioned yet?
Yeah, it make take a little while to ship the parts but I think that it would be well worth it when you consider the price difference. If you want to know more about the VAFC click on this link http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_vafc.pdf that should tell you some more about it. As far as what I've done to my car...well as far as performance goes I've put an intake, header, and exhaust on it.
Veetec
01-25-2002, 01:42 PM
Originally posted by supafly1024
Yeah, it make take a little while to ship the parts but I think that it would be well worth it when you consider the price difference. If you want to know more about the VAFC click on this link http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_vafc.pdf that should tell you some more about it. As far as what I've done to my car...well as far as performance goes I've put an intake, header, and exhaust on it. A german ITR driver wrote me today and he told me I should get a "Power FC" or a "Haltech ECU" in combination with AEMīs adjustable cam gears instead of the VAFC but I couldnīt find these two products anywhere yet! (didnīt had much time, too) Does anybody know these products?
Yeah, it make take a little while to ship the parts but I think that it would be well worth it when you consider the price difference. If you want to know more about the VAFC click on this link http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_vafc.pdf that should tell you some more about it. As far as what I've done to my car...well as far as performance goes I've put an intake, header, and exhaust on it. A german ITR driver wrote me today and he told me I should get a "Power FC" or a "Haltech ECU" in combination with AEMīs adjustable cam gears instead of the VAFC but I couldnīt find these two products anywhere yet! (didnīt had much time, too) Does anybody know these products?
drift
01-25-2002, 02:23 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
A german ITR driver wrote me today and he told me I should get a "Power FC" or a "Haltech ECU" in combination with AEMīs adjustable cam gears instead of the VAFC but I couldnīt find these two products anywhere yet! (didnīt had much time, too) Does anybody know these products?
A'pexi doesnt make a Power FC with baseline software for the H22A. you COULD use a GSR type PowerFC to get your baseline settings and then tune everything on the dyno.
A german ITR driver wrote me today and he told me I should get a "Power FC" or a "Haltech ECU" in combination with AEMīs adjustable cam gears instead of the VAFC but I couldnīt find these two products anywhere yet! (didnīt had much time, too) Does anybody know these products?
A'pexi doesnt make a Power FC with baseline software for the H22A. you COULD use a GSR type PowerFC to get your baseline settings and then tune everything on the dyno.
kenchan
01-25-2002, 06:03 PM
yeah, definitely get a cold intake and a vafc. those 2 really helped out my acceleration. i ride a ss too, so has kinda whimpy low-end torque. but with the fuel leaned -5% or little more, the motor can wind up much faster than stock. :D get wheel spin even with sp8000's.
Veetec
01-26-2002, 08:24 AM
Originally posted by kenchan
yeah, definitely get a cold intake and a vafc. those 2 really helped out my acceleration. i ride a ss too, so has kinda whimpy low-end torque. but with the fuel leaned -5% or little more, the motor can wind up much faster than stock. :D get wheel spin even with sp8000's. A SS???(:D ) Is it a Camaro or what? I donīt think you can compare a Lude and a Camaro engine with each other? Or what do you mean with "SS"?
I donīt have any money left anyways in the moment! But because of the good info which all of you gave me Iīve got an idea now what I can do in the future. Suspension and looks will be the first things Iīll take care about ( Koni yellows and Eibach springs arrived yesterday, Neuspeed strut tower bar and white turning lights are on the way!:) )
So thanx a lot for your help.....
yeah, definitely get a cold intake and a vafc. those 2 really helped out my acceleration. i ride a ss too, so has kinda whimpy low-end torque. but with the fuel leaned -5% or little more, the motor can wind up much faster than stock. :D get wheel spin even with sp8000's. A SS???(:D ) Is it a Camaro or what? I donīt think you can compare a Lude and a Camaro engine with each other? Or what do you mean with "SS"?
I donīt have any money left anyways in the moment! But because of the good info which all of you gave me Iīve got an idea now what I can do in the future. Suspension and looks will be the first things Iīll take care about ( Koni yellows and Eibach springs arrived yesterday, Neuspeed strut tower bar and white turning lights are on the way!:) )
So thanx a lot for your help.....
buh_buh
01-26-2002, 02:43 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
A SS???(:D ) Is it a Camaro or what? I donīt think you can compare a Lude and a Camaro engine with each other? Or what do you mean with "SS"?
SS stands for Sport Shift
A SS???(:D ) Is it a Camaro or what? I donīt think you can compare a Lude and a Camaro engine with each other? Or what do you mean with "SS"?
SS stands for Sport Shift
Veetec
01-26-2002, 10:41 PM
Originally posted by buh_buh
SS stands for Sport Shift Oh. sorry! My fault!:bloated:So in other words it has got an auto tranny??
SS stands for Sport Shift Oh. sorry! My fault!:bloated:So in other words it has got an auto tranny??
buh_buh
01-26-2002, 10:44 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
So in other words it has got an auto tranny??
yeap
So in other words it has got an auto tranny??
yeap
Veetec
01-26-2002, 11:04 PM
Originally posted by kenchan
get wheel spin even with sp8000's. Iīd bet that my wheels are spininng even more!! (especially when itīs wet) The stock tires are really crappy!:D
get wheel spin even with sp8000's. Iīd bet that my wheels are spininng even more!! (especially when itīs wet) The stock tires are really crappy!:D
supafly1024
01-28-2002, 08:53 AM
I get wheel spin on my Falken Ziex tires, with my SS transmission. :D
Veetec
01-28-2002, 12:50 PM
Originally posted by supafly1024
I get wheel spin on my Falken Ziex tires, with my SS transmission. :D I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;)
I get wheel spin on my Falken Ziex tires, with my SS transmission. :D I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;)
supafly1024
01-28-2002, 01:33 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;)
Reason A) I got a good deal on my SS Lude
Reason B) It's still faster than a Civic, which is what I used to have
Reason C) Sometimes having to shift gears all the time gets old, with the SS transmission if you want to shift you can, but if you want to let the car do the work you can do that also.
Reason D) I don't have to shell out any money because of a clutch going bad.
I like the Prelude, that's why I bought one, I didn't buy it to drag race or anything like that, it's a daily driver so the SS tranny is fine with me, at least it's a little better than a regular automatic.
:D
I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;)
Reason A) I got a good deal on my SS Lude
Reason B) It's still faster than a Civic, which is what I used to have
Reason C) Sometimes having to shift gears all the time gets old, with the SS transmission if you want to shift you can, but if you want to let the car do the work you can do that also.
Reason D) I don't have to shell out any money because of a clutch going bad.
I like the Prelude, that's why I bought one, I didn't buy it to drag race or anything like that, it's a daily driver so the SS tranny is fine with me, at least it's a little better than a regular automatic.
:D
Veetec
01-28-2002, 02:24 PM
Originally posted by supafly1024
Reason A) I got a good deal on my SS Lude
Reason B) It's still faster than a Civic, which is what I used to have
Reason C) Sometimes having to shift gears all the time gets old, with the SS transmission if you want to shift you can, but if you want to let the car do the work you can do that also.
Reason D) I don't have to shell out any money because of a clutch going bad.
I like the Prelude, that's why I bought one, I didn't buy it to drag race or anything like that, it's a daily driver so the SS tranny is fine with me, at least it's a little better than a regular automatic.
:D Okay. Thanx for your honest answer!:)
Reason A) I got a good deal on my SS Lude
Reason B) It's still faster than a Civic, which is what I used to have
Reason C) Sometimes having to shift gears all the time gets old, with the SS transmission if you want to shift you can, but if you want to let the car do the work you can do that also.
Reason D) I don't have to shell out any money because of a clutch going bad.
I like the Prelude, that's why I bought one, I didn't buy it to drag race or anything like that, it's a daily driver so the SS tranny is fine with me, at least it's a little better than a regular automatic.
:D Okay. Thanx for your honest answer!:)
Veetec
01-28-2002, 02:26 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;) I forgot to write that this Civic was also an automatic one!;)
I even had wheel spin with my first Honda, an 1.5l SOHC non-VTEC Civic with 90hp!:D
One question to the SS owners: Why have you bought the Lude with the SS?? I mean, it accelerates about two seconds slower from 0-60mp/h than the one with the manual tranny! :confused: And then you spent a lot of money on aftermarket parts to make is as fast as the one with the manual tranny. Donīt get me wrong! Itīs your car and if you like it like that then everything is fine! Iīm just curious....;) I forgot to write that this Civic was also an automatic one!;)
supafly1024
01-28-2002, 03:04 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Okay. Thanx for your honest answer!:)
No prob.
Okay. Thanx for your honest answer!:)
No prob.
flylwsi
01-30-2002, 07:37 PM
note from the first page of posts...
the 4th gen did not have a b20. that was the 88-91 prelude.
a good way to get the down low hp is with some cam gears, b/c you dont necessarily need hp, you need tq to get you movin...
also note... the 2.65hp increase that header gives is the average, and there are points along the powerband where you can find spikes that are pretty high... a header does give noticeable power that is definitely worth it...
the vtec crossover moving type devices, vafc, or the jr piece, are both nice in that they move your aggressive cam lobes into a more usable range... the jackson piece is even good to switch over at 2500 rpm... the major factor is that the product you use has the ecu switching to the vtec lobe, so it adds on the timing and fuel curves for the vtec lobe... some just switch the vtec solenoid, but dont add the fuel maps...
and the crossover point is a personal preference really, but 3500 would most likely be ideal, depending on what rpm you cruise at most, b/c if you cruise under that, it wont take long to get into the vtec craziness...
the 4th gen did not have a b20. that was the 88-91 prelude.
a good way to get the down low hp is with some cam gears, b/c you dont necessarily need hp, you need tq to get you movin...
also note... the 2.65hp increase that header gives is the average, and there are points along the powerband where you can find spikes that are pretty high... a header does give noticeable power that is definitely worth it...
the vtec crossover moving type devices, vafc, or the jr piece, are both nice in that they move your aggressive cam lobes into a more usable range... the jackson piece is even good to switch over at 2500 rpm... the major factor is that the product you use has the ecu switching to the vtec lobe, so it adds on the timing and fuel curves for the vtec lobe... some just switch the vtec solenoid, but dont add the fuel maps...
and the crossover point is a personal preference really, but 3500 would most likely be ideal, depending on what rpm you cruise at most, b/c if you cruise under that, it wont take long to get into the vtec craziness...
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