Resin Howto

Hi

I have received my Ferrari 360GT LeMan Transkit (Full Resin Body) and I was wondering if there is any tips for resin kit. Cleaning cuttin etc..

oh, and there is nothing in the F.A.Q. :lol:

Some great tips here, all u need to know - http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/kitformservices/working.html

Any other ?

This one cover overal thing, but I need to know more. What kind of glue you buy and how do you aply it ? (I used Crasy Glue for SAS stuff since it's all big part and glue is under the body, but now I have some really small piece, and Crasy Glue is simply too liquid and it's too easy to put too much glue.
I don't want to ruin a 120$ model

thanks

Try Super glue gel; it doesn't run.:)

A quick setting epoxy like 5 minute Araldite works well. Gives plenty of "fiddle time". Small parts will stick straight away, larger parts will need to be held/taped/clamped to keep them properly located while the epoxy hardens.

Epoxy ? I hate the smell of that.
Is normal Epoxy work any good ?

How do you apply it, you put some on a scrap part then use a toothpick to apply it ?

Thanks

Be careful when working with resin. I have heard and read about its toxicity. Always wear a dust mask if you are going to sand or file resin parts. Thanks.

Personally I'm not a fan of epoxy glue. However that and super glue are your best options when it comes to resin. Its good to have some of each in your modeling arsenal for when the need arises. A good modeler should certainly have super glue in thin, medium and thick consistencies IMO, along with some accelerator - very useful.

Epoxy ? I hate the smell of that.
Is normal Epoxy work any good ?

I guess so but the quicker setting the better IMHO. I'm talking about glue here, not epoxy putty which is different. I think epoxy refers to having two parts, an adhesive and hardener. When Araldite hardens it is almost crystal clear.

How do you apply it, you put some on a scrap part then use a toothpick to apply it ?


Exactly, mix up the required portion on some cardboard or plastic and apply it with a toothpick, knife blade or whatever. Similar deal with CA glue, I never apply it straight out of the tube. Make a small puddle on some newspaper and then apply where needed with a toothpick, etc. The less you use the better.

Also for really small pieces, like you asked, consider using clear paint as a glue. Especially useful on windows and lights. For instance, I glued the three PE bolts on the rear quater windows of my Peugeot 206s using nothing more than clear gloss enamel paint.

Exactly, mix up the required portion on some cardboard or plastic and apply it with a toothpick, knife blade or whatever. Similar deal with CA glue, I never apply it straight out of the tube. Make a small puddle on some newspaper and then apply where needed with a toothpick, etc. The less you use the better.


Yes this is what I do with normal Glue, but was wondering if Epoxy would dry too fast.

I will try to find some (one place I have seen is 16$Us :eek: )

I find it is best to buy it in the smallest size possible. It is only ever used sparingly and a large tube is no saving because it gets too messy and caked up over time. Better to get a couple of really small ones, that will last a few models (that is a year or more if you build slowly like me!). In Australia an Araldite pack with two 4 or 5 ml tubes costs around AUS$2.00.

No I don't find the epoxy dries too fast, even if it did there are slower hardening varieties available or you could experiment with different mixes of hardener and resin.

came back from hardware store

got some "Home-Bond" 5 Minutes Rapide Setting Epoxy Gel.
it's green, but should dry clear. about 4$ for a big tube

To reitterate what everyone else has said so far...

When glueing resin, here's the deal. Just like styrene, no one way is the best.

For places where strength AND invisibility are neded (PE wind endplates, mirrors, body components, chassis, etc) use a 5 minute, 2-part epoxy such as Devcon's product.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=277

For places where you'll never see the part (back of brake disc, internal parts, etc) use a cyanoacrylate such as SuperGlue or Pacer product.

For tiny PE parts placed onto the painted body (body latches, nut-bolt-washer assemblies, antennaes, etc) use a clear enamel or acrylic (Future will work).

As always, prime everything, watch the dust (wet sanding will eliminate almost all of those problems) and make sure to show us your work!!!

Bill

thanks for tips

is Tamiya X22 would do the trick for small PE parts ?

As long as you remember the old rule...

Lacquer (hottest)

then Enamel (hot)

then Acrylic (mild)


NEVER Lacquer over Enamel


...which is why I use Future (or a suitable acrylic clear) as an assembly glue for the tiny stuff.

Hope that helps,
Bill

hehe yea I know the rule.. I always use Tamiya paint anyway