quick question about engines

ok, i'm fairly versed in engine, i'm building a 350 for my truck but i'm having troubles deciding on whether i should just build the 350 or turn it into a 383 stroker motor, i'm hoping to produce around 350 to 450 HP, if i end up with more, then that's all the better :biggrin: i've got the block, now i'm just trying to decide on which one, the block is a 4 bolt main block that has never been touched with a bore, it's been used so automatically i know that it will probably have to be taken .030 over to get all the "kinks" out of it, in everyones opinion, would a 350 or a 383 stroker be better, also, either way it goes, this motor will be a roller motor, i'm not goin' with flat tapped, i'm also thinking about spending the extra and goin' with dart CNC aluminum head, i wanna turn at least 6500 rpm out of this motor

As the engine is going in a truck, the 383 is the best choice if your budget can handle it. Eagle makes the better kits for the money. Avoid the cast steel cranks. They are weak. You would be better off to grind the mains down on a factory 400 crank than to use one of those cheapos. Of course, a forged steel crank is the best way to go. FWIW, using the terms "383" and "stroker" in the same sentence is redundant...(:-
What do you intend to do with your truck? If it's truck, and not just a play-toy, cam it and set compression for use at lower RPM and lower octane. Revving to 6,500 is useless unless there's purpose.
Hydraulic rolles are the rage, and for good reason. Comp makes the most complete and effective kits. Use Xtreme Energy series rather than Magnum.
Have the block magnefluxed befor ANY machine work is done. If it's cracked, better to learn BEFORE instead of after. Be sure, when the boring is done, a deck plate is used for the finish-hone. Well worth the extra few bucks. Align-hone ONLY if necessary. Too often, this done just for the hell of it. Resist the urge! "Zero decking" is a good thing...
Again, if it's a truck, and not a "race truck", avoid aluminum heads. Iron heads will make plenty of power and be more efficient in the process. Dart Iron Eagle and Pro Topline are currently the better offerings. You won't need any massive port work or huge valves to make 400 horsepower with the 383. 2.02s and 1.60s, 200 CC intake runner, will do the trick. Angle-plugs make changing spark plugs easier f you have headers.

Jim

ok, thanks for the advice, this truck will probably be a daily driver, but i want to have the HP there when i need it

MrPBody, I will agree with you on everything, but one question. I'm building a 350 right now and I was going to have it align-bored ...well...just for the hell of it!!! Why is that not a good idea. I was under the impression that it doesn't leave you with any larger clearances, or does it, or am I just not thinking of something.

MrPBody, I will agree with you on everything, but one question. I'm building a 350 right now and I was going to have it align-bored ...well...just for the hell of it!!! Why is that not a good idea. I was under the impression that it doesn't leave you with any larger clearances, or does it, or am I just not thinking of something.
Align boring also requires the caps to be re-sized, that is, a small amount of material (not enough to affect strength) is shaved off the bearing caps and the block where the two meet. Then a new bore hole is drilled. The end result is a bore hole that is exactly the same as stock.

That's exactly what I thought. I'm putting alot into this block (and hopefully getting ALOT out of it :evillol: ) so I figured I would have it align bored just to make sure that its true but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't have this done.

couple yrs ago i converted a 350 to a 383, actually it was 388,bored 60 over. used iron heads with big
valves,10 1/2 pistons,590 lift comp roller & two 500
carter 4 barrels. this engine is a powerhouse from 0
to 6500 rpm. rdobbs

the only problem with align boring the block is after its done the crankshaft is just a touch higher in block, affecting the timing chain "slack". The more qualified the machine shop, the better the work and the better your tolerances will be.

OK, that would be the something that I wasn't thinking about, Thanks.

You've gotten a lot of good advice. I agree with the stroker motor. I didn't see it mentioned, but if you're looking for a steel crank, that's what they used in the 400 small block truck motors. You can buy one, or if you have a decent boneyard around you, look for an old chevy p/u that is a heavy half or larger, or an old full size Blazer for Jimmy. The other thing that wasn't mentioned was stroke as it relates to torque. Typically the longer the stroke, the more torque you get. That's what made the 400 small block all the rage. If your running this in a truck, then I would suggest you consider that number as opposed to just Horsepower.They were designed as a Station wagon engine, but when the folks on the street saw the tire roasting you could get out of one, they became a hit. Stroke up your 350, and you'll be smilin like a pig under the gate. Good Luck.

ive heard that the 383 has more torque than a 350 block should normally put out and causes increased engine wear and the 383 only lasts a short term before its time for a rebuild.

The 383 does have more torque than a stock 350, but increased torque happens when you hop up any motor. If you're looking to make around 350 - 400 HP in a dependable package, the 383 stroker will give you that, with about the same numbers for torque. If you maintain it correctly, and pull the handle before you hit 6 grand, the little stroker will last a long time, before needing a rebuild. Good Luck:)

im running within those specs with my 350, why doesnt he just save money on the machining process and just do a 350 over 30. Not only that but i bet the parts would be cheaper due to the popularity.

The reason to use the 400 rods is for the increase in torque. Longer stroke always equals more torque, which is great for a truck. A 383 stroker is a 350 with 400 rods, as opposed to "rdobbs" .060 over 350 (388). The only real added expense to the stroker is just the rods and crank, which he would probably want to replace anyway if he just rebuilt the 350. Many ways to skin the preverbial cat, and your idea is one of many good ones.

thanks for all the advice everyone, i think i'm just gonna go with a 383, you don't see many trucks on the road in my town that are long wheel base that has a stroker in it, i wanna be different

After some research i have found that the reason the 383 stroker doesnt last very long at all, is because with the increased stroke, there is a great increase in strain on the piston sidewalls. Thus, increased wear and premature engine failure. 383 would be unique, but i am pulling those numbers with my 350 .30 over and reliability is nary an issue.

Sorry I took so long to get back here. I have more input to help clear up some misunderstandings.
The 400 rod IS shorter, creating the problem of trying to push the piston through the wall. By using 5.7 or 6" rods, this is significantly deminished. The main reason Chevy shortened the rods was to prevent the rod bolt from interfering with the camshaft at higher RPM. The aftermarket supplies rods relieved at the bolt to prevent this.
I've heard of the steel 400 crank, but have never actually seen a factory one. It isn't listed in GM's Performance Parts catelog. The stock one is nodular iron and quite tough. Many of the 400s we've built in recent years came out of trucks. All of them were cast cranks. This isn't to dispute the existence of a factory forging, only to say they are very rare, and probably not necessary.
The biggest advantage of a 383 over a 350 is the power curve. The torque will peak at a lower RPM, making it a better "street" motor. Heavier cars and pickups will see the most gains. Lighter cars may not see much of a difference in overall performance, but better "manners".
The 350 is definitely a great engine. It wouldn't be the most popular out there is it weren't. It will maintain higher revs without problems than the 383. It will not outperform it, all other factors being equal. In general, the old addage about cubic inches is completely accurate. The only thing that beats cubic inches is CUBIC MONEY...