1999 Slt

I have a SLT with 68,000 miles, Is it common for the Fuel pump to go out or could the strainer to be clogged. We can drive the vechile around town and it seams that if we dont hit any bumps, it will restart with no issues. When you first turn the key to start it, you can here the pump working. If we hit a bump or R.R. tracks, then it dont. Of cousre if you get under the car and hit the tank, it will start.
I have a new fuel pump on the way. I just wanted to see if this a common thing and how many miles are these pumps good for. Is there anything eles I need to look for as well? This thing runs excellent. The only draw back is that gas is so high. I quess 15mpg isnt to bad.

fuel pump could be bad, at 68K? yes. I'ts almost never the sump being clogged.
It could, however, be a bad ASD relay or a bad connection to the fuel pump. Probably just the pump though.
The fuel pump going bad ans Idle air control valves (won't start) are pretty common.
Careful that you don't nose around this forum too much and get scared by "dodge haters" threatening to burn their durango at the stake, or how the motors are so terrible. Seems there are some unhappy people in these durango threads, that Don't have any real backing in truth for their statements. For the most part, the Durango(any model) is as good as you maintain it.

:)

Thank you for your input.

I for one have had this truck for 8 months. I love it. Every make has there own "BUGS". I say if the guy want to set his on fire so be it.
I plan on keeping my D for some time...

I just want to watch the guy burn it, just so I can be assured that he is that stupid, for real!

I think i fixed it. I installed the new fuel pump on it so far its good. It really wasnt to bad either. I would recomemed that if any one eles trys this. Defently drain the tank. I only had 7 gallons left so it wasnt to bad. 4 bolts 2 screws and 2 nuts, 2 hose clamps and it was on the ground.

If someone wants to BURN their Durango just give us the time and place so we can all come and watch it go up.

I think i fixed it. I installed the new fuel pump on it so far its good. It really wasnt to bad either. I would recomemed that if any one eles trys this. Defently drain the tank. I only had 7 gallons left so it wasnt to bad. 4 bolts 2 screws and 2 nuts, 2 hose clamps and it was on the ground.

I've been told by my mechanic that the fuel pump on my 99 108k is on its way out (consistantly cranking 5 - 6 seconds before starting after the engine has been off 30 minutes or more). Is this a simple job to change out the fuel pump? More details, please if you can.

I've been told by my mechanic that the fuel pump on my 99 108k is on its way out (consistantly cranking 5 - 6 seconds before starting after the engine has been off 30 minutes or more). Is this a simple job to change out the fuel pump? More details, please if you can.

I thought it was easy. I think it took maybe a hour or less. Alot will depend on how much gas is in the tank. I use a floor jack to bring the tank to the ground. There is 4 bolts for the tank straps, and a few hose clamps. I really think its a easy task. I wanna say the pump was steep. I got it from NAPA. I thought it was around $200. I dont remember that part. But Yes I thought it was easy.

I use a floor jack to bring the tank to the ground.

Someone was telling me this weekend that there might not be enough clearance without a hoist. Did you do this with ramps or with a hoist?

Well, I just finished dropping the gas tank about 10 minutes ago.
My hat is off to the guy who said this would take about an hour. Hardly.
Anyway, couple pointers:

1. If you can, make sure the tank is as empty as possible. You CANNOT siphon through the filler pipe, since there is an anti-theft feature at the tank inlet nozzle. (A small, 1/4 inch tube will fit through the grid, but you'll really need to disconnect the filler tube right at the tank nozzle to manipulate this).

2. Disconnecting the fuel filler and vent line at the tank can be a real bear due to old hoses that have "set" after all the years. Use a small screwdriver blade to slip under the hose and work it around to break them free. You can get better access if you lower the spare tire and remove it, as well as remove the left rear wheel. Maybe even remove the plastic inner fender on the left side, although not necessary.

3. There are just 2 bolts holding the tank straps, not 4. You'll need a 15mm deep socket and a long Johnson bar. Good luck if they're corroded and frozen. If you're lucky, the entire stud will thread out from the truck frame, rather than breaking off.

4. No need to try to disconnect the fuel line from the tank until you've dropped the tank down...there's plenty of slack in the fuel line and the electrical connection to do this.

5. Bleed the fuel pump residual pressure at the fuel rail schraeder valve (under the hood) before disconnecting the fuel line at the tank.

6. There's only one vacuum line at the front of the tank, and that's easily disconnected before lowering the tank.

7. There's no need for putting the truck on a hoist. Just use some jack stands. The tank comes out under the vehicle with good clearance as long as you've raised the truck just a few inches. If you lower with a hydraulic floor jack and a piece of plywood, you just need to be high enough for the jack clearance in the compressed condition. If you don't use a jack, you could use something like rope or straps. Or you could just use two people!

Good luck.
(PS, I went through all this to replace a corroded and ruptured steel brake line that runs the length of the truck. Never seen a failure like that on a modern car. Hmmm. Anyway, I bet I can do it in an hour the next time, which will probably be to replace my 115k mile fuel pump!)

Dave
Westminster, MD
USA

Thanks very much for the details!!