03 Maxima

Umm, ok, theres a really hot Maxima round here in buffalo, nice little body kit, good sounding exhaust, nothing ricey. But umm, hes fast as FUK! Now there are alot of people around here who work on their cars and what not, but i think somethings wrong when this guys spanking 04 mustang gts with turbos and some other nice bolt ons, like they are a phakkin mini-van. I swear I've seen this guy rip up other muscle cars like they were NOTHING.

I think i can honestly say I'm quite jealous, seeings how fast he is.

Are maximas REALLY that strong? or has this guy dont ALOT under the hood?\



EDIT: oh and lets not forget the camaros/Trans Ams/Firebirds that carry 350s.

who knows? he could be on the juice, if he is manual he should already be in the mid 14's then add some go fast mods or freaking nitrous and he is one mad maxima owner !

-tales of a sleeper

it's probably that guy who runs 12's and shit on the trans am with the nos. i think his name is jime.

If you've actually seen him racing, you'll know if he's got NOS. You can hear it, smell it (if you're close enough) and see it, as soon as he hits that switch. Trust me, it's not something you can hide. ( at least while you're racing)

:evillol:

I think Jime's car is a 2002

http://jime.homeip.net/carinfo.html

~THT

I think Jime's car is a 2002

http://jime.homeip.net/carinfo.html

~THT
it's not like you can actually tell though. unless he checked the registration.

If you've actually seen him racing, you'll know if he's got NOS. You can hear it, smell it (if you're close enough) and see it, as soon as he hits that switch. Trust me, it's not something you can hide. ( at least while you're racing)

:evillol:

Not sure I agree totally with that. No one has been able to hear, smell or see that I am running nitrous unless I open the hood.

I ran a whole race day, even went through tech and no one knew I was running nitrous until they saw my times and someone suggested to the tech official that I should probably have an N put on my window displaying that I am running nitrous.

PS Ejj is from Buffalo and runs a S/C 4th Gen Max, could be him. I have some video of him when I lent him my slicks to try out at the track.

Not sure I agree totally with that. No one has been able to hear, smell or see that I am running nitrous unless I open the hood.

I ran a whole race day, even went through tech and no one knew I was running nitrous until they saw my times and someone suggested to the tech official that I should probably have an N put on my window displaying that I am running nitrous.

PS Ejj is from Buffalo and runs a S/C 4th Gen Max, could be him. I have some video of him when I lent him my slicks to try out at the track.

Then you're racing with total dumb@sses! If they can't tell you're running nitrous once you hit that switch, then either you've got a lame NOS system, or they haven't got a clue! Not trying to be a smart@ss, but anyone who's been around cars with NOS will know!

Kinda like your last post where you claimed someone was running 100 shot nitrous on a stock Max engine. Now THAT'S a good one!! LMAO! There's NO freakin way you can run that much nitrous in a stock engine without it literally roasting the internal parts! Trust me, if the guy WAS running a 100 shot, he's had work done to that car. There's just no way it was stock. Otherwise he'd be rebuilding that engine everytime he hit that nitrous!
damn rookies I tell ya! :screwy:

Then you're racing with total dumb@sses! If they can't tell you're running nitrous once you hit that switch, then either you've got a lame NOS system, or they haven't got a clue! Not trying to be a smart@ss, but anyone who's been around cars with NOS will know!

Kinda like your last post where you claimed someone was running 100 shot nitrous on a stock Max engine. Now THAT'S a good one!! LMAO! There's NO freakin way you can run that much nitrous in a stock engine without it literally roasting the internal parts! Trust me, if the guy WAS running a 100 shot, he's had work done to that car. There's just no way it was stock. Otherwise he'd be rebuilding that engine everytime he hit that nitrous!
damn rookies I tell ya! :screwy:

I guess I have a lame system then because it only runs 12.1 on a 100 shot of nitrous. I guess I am a duma$$ too because I can't smell or hear any difference on a nitrous powered car.

I didn't claim SOMEONE was running a 100 shot on a stock Max engine, I claimed I run a 100 shot on a stock Max engine.

Just for your info, this is my 3rd Max, I had a 97SE (it was stolen and burned) it ran a 13.1 on a 150 shot, a 95 GXE (I still have) it ran a 12.1 on a 150 shot and my 2k2 SE which so far runs a 12.1 on a 100 shot.

All of these cars are auto's with stock engine and trans internals. The engines will stand up fine to a 100 shot, a 150 is pushing it on the 3.0L but the 3.5L will take a lot more.

I have a little info on my website. http://maximase.kicks-ass.net/

Jime, you're killing me man...first the DR mod and now you're making me want NX all the worse...QUIT IT! :D

~THT

Then you're racing with total dumb@sses! If they can't tell you're running nitrous once you hit that switch, then either you've got a lame NOS system, or they haven't got a clue! Not trying to be a smart@ss, but anyone who's been around cars with NOS will know!

Kinda like your last post where you claimed someone was running 100 shot nitrous on a stock Max engine. Now THAT'S a good one!! LMAO! There's NO freakin way you can run that much nitrous in a stock engine without it literally roasting the internal parts! Trust me, if the guy WAS running a 100 shot, he's had work done to that car. There's just no way it was stock. Otherwise he'd be rebuilding that engine everytime he hit that nitrous!
damn rookies I tell ya! :screwy:

To Chris, this is just for you, I know it is long but there is some very informative stuff that you should know about the Maxima's VQ Engine before you go on flaming those of us here who already know, pay particular attention to the part that says the VQ Engine is stronger than the Supra Engine, which I know can run plenty of juice on its' stock internals:

Read up on this, and find out. Chances are, you'll be pleasantly surprised, like I was.

This was taken from a discussion at My350Z.com. It's a long read, but you'll like it if you're an geek like me.

Hopefully this hasn't been posted before. If it's a repost, it can be deleted. Quote: <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=1>
I visited AEBS today to see the pro spec series stroker kit (VQ35DE)

I had to see this in person, I talked to the head mechanic Paulus who actually I remember from back in 92 who was a honda guru.

1. The total cost of the kit is 7,800.00

2. Comes with 9325 custom billet steel crank. used in NHRA
a. the crank was very high qulity(see pic) overall stoke is
90mm(stock is 81mm)
b. according to paulus this bad boy should have no problem
with stock rpm revs in fact with rev limited removed the
engine can safely rev to 9k+ with tuning. Even though it is
a 6cylinder his reason is that the prelude and s2000 stroke
are 91 and 90 mm so that shouldnt be a problem.
3. The rods are x beam with internal oil inlet from the crank up
the beam through the wrist pin to squirt into the bottom piston these rods are made by Pauter
4. The pistons are FORGED,you can expect up to 26 lbs of boost for the 8:5:1 compression. no dyno result yet......(wrist pins&rings included)
5. As for the t sleeves thats where Im really impressed with the quality, although they did not have a VQ block there they did have the sleeves very heavy duty, they did have a nsx block with the t sleeves in it. As for blueprint and machine work he expect about 15 hrs labor at 65.00$ an hour. Me and paulus used to use Ed Hale in lakeside ca, he is know for his excellent machine work on race engines. Unfortunately its race season here and 6 cylinders and 4 cylinders are paper weights until the small block chevys are done. Paulus said the VQ block is are stronger then the supra turbo blocks although they are full floating cylinders
But im sure any good reputable machine shop can do this. I thinking to see what Benson Machine shop charges in the Los Angeles CA area?
My final Verdict is this...........Hi quaility, no doubt. Personally I would love to see someone(with money) do a NA build up with the higher compression 11 or 11.5:1 at a price tag or close to 8k without machine work you would be looking at over 10k+ by the time its ready to turn key. I would like to see HP and Torque numbers in the future, Since im married with kids, I will have to pass and maybe settle for the sc or tt and 6-8 psi.
For those with deep pockets, I wouldnt hesitate , the car is still new and im sure we will see many many avenues of horse power, but if you want somthing different ,,,,,,4.3L VQ sounds NICE! <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=1>
Quote: <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=1>
Responses to many of your questions are answered here.

The formula for piston speed ( feet per minute ) is:

stroke (millimeters) x rpm (engine speed) / 153

The formula for kinetic energy is 0.5 x M x V^2, where M is the mass of the piston and connecting rods assembly, and V is the speed of the piston and Connecting rod assembly.

I will list the general guide for piston speeds. It is general because there are factors in involved with regard to the weight of the pistons and connecting rods ( kinetic energy ).

With forged (standard steel ) it is recommended that you do not exceed 4400 feet per minute for endurance road racing, and 6000 feet per minute for drag racing.
Now you need to examine the construction of the forged crankshafts. How much overlap is there between the bearing journals, how thick is the material between the journals, how much counterweights are used for properly dampening the destructive harmonic frequencies, what is the diameter of the bearing journals ( the larger the more oil cushion it creates, thus preventing metal to metal contact ). For instance, the Honda NSX has only 0.140 inches of material between the first two connecting rod bearing journals, and at high horsepower above 1000 it breaks at this junction. Two of current high profile drag racers in the import scene have been battling this problem. The v-6 Toyotas and GM's have this problem too. The Nissan VQ35 does not have this problem at this junction because it is 0.710 inches thick between the first two connection rod journals.
The piston speed ultimately depend on the kinetic energy of the moving assembly. Yes, lighter is better like using Titanium connecting rods. The piston is 101.5 mm (3.996 inches) for the naturally aspirated application. For turbo it is 100 mm. The NA piston is extremely light for reasons mentioned above with many secret features built in. I don't know how many of you follow nascar, but for many years they have been running 3.5 inches ( 88.9 millimeters ) stroke with pistons well above 4.00 inches in diameter. Their engines speeds were all in the 9000 rpm range. The rpm limiting factors on these engines were more due to the flexing of the rocker arms push rods. Yes these engines did have billet crankshaft. In the same way, the AEBS crankshaft is made from 9325 billet steel, the same material used in today's 6000 plus horsepower topfuel, and funny drag racing engines. The conventional (still very strong ) steel is 4340 cromoly steel.
With regard to the rod ratio's, these have both their pro's and con's. A long rod ratio creates a longer piston dwelling at TDC, which benefits Naturally aspirated drag racing engines for high rpm horsepower but sometimes at the expense of low to mid range horsepower. It could be detrimental for Forced Induction, since a longer dwell time creates extremely high chances of Detonation at TDC due to overprolonged pressures, this was discovered by the Funny Car and Top Fuel racing engines 20 years ago ( as you see, technology is often nothing new because we are often reinventing the wheel).
Many IRL's have reduced their rod ratio's becaused they suffered from mid range torque coming out of the corners.
A shorter rod ratio has a longer piston dwell at BDC.
The Nissan VQ35 block is constructed from a high pressure die casting procedure and it consists from high density Aluminum using 4 bolt mains with a longitudinal girdle to support the main caps. With the AEBS sleeves, you can push over 1500 horsepower easily. These sleeve designs are exclusive to AEBS since they own the U.S. Patten rights. Imagine this, AEBS has pushed 1200 horsepower on 4 cylinder 2.2 liter prelude motors with similar designed blocks and sleeves. On top on that , the Honda Prelude block do not even have 4 bolt mains.
The Toyota 2JZ crankshaft is an inline 6 style and whenever number 1 cylinder fires, the crankshaft undergoes serious flexing when this power is transferred to the flywheel. That's why you will never see an inline 8 Topfuel or Funny Car racing engine, just horrible flexing with detrimental harmonic vibrations.
Furthermore, just with Top fuel racing engines, the blocks are made from Aluminum to absorp harmonic vibrations thus reducing cracking, the Toyota 2jz is made from cast iron.
If any of you are really serious about high performance, you should consider running bigger oversize intake and exhaust valves for higher flow, porting the cylinder heads, replacing the valve guides and seats with nickel aluminum bronze machined ones that dissipate the heat faster and reduces the friction.
Also, use aftermarket camshafts that use Genuine Nissan motor corporation camcores such As Tomei. All these parts an processes are available through AEBS. Many aftermarket camshafts that use Chilled cast cores are known for breaking and cracking.
In conclusion, If you are not really interested in engine performance, knowing the how and whats, just ignore this whole message. It was not intended to bore you, just to add some common basic elementary engine information to you wizzards on this forum , it was probably information that you already knew a long time ago. Here is a correction to some of the info posted above:The stock stroke is NOT 81mm. It's 81.4mm.

They advertise the bores of their product to be 100mm for boost and 101.5mm for NA. The latter is wrong. A 101.5mm bore and a 90mm stroke would equal 4369cc or 4.4 liters. They advertise their maximum displacement to be 4.3 liters. A 100.5mm bore would equal 4284cc and makes more sense. You wouldn't really need more than a 1.0 or a 0.5 mm bore difference between the two.


Mentioning crankshaft flexing, top fuel engines have their cams ground to account for this. At full power a top fuel crankshaft will flex as much as 20º. Most engines going to 1000hp certainly wouldn't suffer as much as the ones that produce 6000hp.

Thanks for the info Bk2k. Very interesting to say the least. I didn't mean to "flame" Jimme or anyone else and I apologize if it came off that way. I wasn't aware these VQ's could handle that much power. However, that being said, I was under the impression that the NOS system Jimme had was running on a totally stock Max. After reading up on his car I see he has had headers, complete exhaust & intake work done on his car. (which is understandable when running NOS) Granted that's not "stock", but I still didn't think that was enough to run NOS without roasting the rods, pistons, etc. I've had quite a few friends that have tore up there engines by adding NOS and doing no other work to the engine, aside from exhaust work. Everything from Rustangs to Honduhs. What Bk2k posted however makes much more sense, with the kit that actually includes the billet steel crank, the forged pistons, rods and whatnot. That's the kind of work I felt was necessary to run NOS realistically AND reliably.
Thanks again or the info BK2k.
:bigthumb:

Thanks for the info Bk2k. Very interesting to say the least. I didn't mean to "flame" Jimme or anyone else and I apologize if it came off that way. I wasn't aware these VQ's could handle that much power. However, that being said, I was under the impression that the NOS system Jimme had was running on a totally stock Max. After reading up on his car I see he has had headers, complete exhaust & intake work done on his car. (which is understandable when running NOS) Granted that's not "stock", but I still didn't think that was enough to run NOS without roasting the rods, pistons, etc. I've had quite a few friends that have tore up there engines by adding NOS and doing no other work to the engine, aside from exhaust work. Everything from Rustangs to Honduhs. What Bk2k posted however makes much more sense, with the kit that actually includes the billet steel crank, the forged pistons, rods and whatnot. That's the kind of work I felt was necessary to run NOS realistically AND reliably.
Thanks again or the info BK2k.
:bigthumb:

You're welcomed and as far as the Stock thing goes, when it comes to running boost especially N2O in huge amounts most car internals require some strengthening but Headers and whatever else that Jime has on his car doesn't have any strengthening added to it, so basically other than the added headers he really doesn't have any internal work done on the engine or heads where it would matter the most.

The only reason I posted this is because many of people take the VQ and the Maxima for granted because they have no idea how well Nissan builds or in the case of the VQ overbuilds its' engines.

Even Ward posted an article about how the V6 VQ in the Maxima is an overbuilt masterpiece and how all automakers are or should be striving to make their 6 cylinder engines like this one.

That is why it has won Ward's Ten Best Engine list over 9 years and counting.

Dude, its not NOS. NOS is a brand of Nitrous oxide, as is NX. I hate when that damn term is thrown around. It makes you sound like such a rice boy.

Ya I think its him, just imagining how fast that car is makes me all hot :P. I just bought a 95 Probe that I'm saving up to work on. Ill tell ya this, if I had enough for a maxima, I'd pick one up in a heartbeat.