Cheap Spray Paint

This is for all of us poor teenagers out there with very little money and very shioty cars. --------- Today I painted my 1988 S10. I was given this truck by my dad, at which time it didn't start. After I replaced the alternator, I had a running (woop) yet very, very, very, ugly ORANGE and WHITE pickup truck with huge scratches and rust. Well, today I went to my local k-mart, bout a thing of bondo (5.00 bucks), 14 cans of gloss black spray paint ( all together 14.00 bucks), and a set of imitation chrome colored hubcaps ( 13.00 bucks). As soon as I got home, I took a block of wood and a piece of sand paper and got to work roughing the surface paint (orange and white). I then sprayed and whiped the thing with a hose and a towel. Now I had my ideal surface. I then did some shotty bondo work on the rust holes. I now had roughed/porus base on which to spray my spray paint. I masked all the crap I didn't want painted (i.e. windows, tail lights) with newspaper and scotch tape. Then I starteded painting it with a thin coat of spray paint. When I was done with the first coat, I waited and hour and then went ahead and sprayed a second coat on. I then removed the masking and installed my hubcaps.-------------- Now here is the inspirational point I am trying to make to my fellow poor people: I went from the uglies piece of shiot (don;t forget the two tone colors), and with less than thirty bucks made it into ONE PIMP RIDE!!! Forget about Maaco or some expensive paint job if you have a piece of crap car that is embarrasing; if you use a simple color of spray paint like gloss black, you can make your vehicle look great. My car is now incredibly great looking in comparison to what it was, and I hope this inspires some other people with god awful vehicles to whip out the spray paint.

I suppose its great compared to what it used to be.But is the paint really glossy to the touch?
You also cant forget that its not as easy to scracth car paint than regular paint.But since your on a "Budget",its alright.

This is for all of us poor teenagers out there with very little money and very shioty cars. --------- Today I painted my 1988 S10. I was given this truck by my dad, at which time it didn't start. After I replaced the alternator, I had a running (woop) yet very, very, very, ugly ORANGE and WHITE pickup truck with huge scratches and rust. Well, today I went to my local k-mart, bout a thing of bondo (5.00 bucks), 14 cans of gloss black spray paint ( all together 14.00 bucks), and a set of imitation chrome colored hubcaps ( 13.00 bucks). As soon as I got home, I took a block of wood and a piece of sand paper and got to work roughing the surface paint (orange and white). I then sprayed and whiped the thing with a hose and a towel. Now I had my ideal surface. I then did some shotty bondo work on the rust holes. I now had roughed/porus base on which to spray my spray paint. I masked all the crap I didn't want painted (i.e. windows, tail lights) with newspaper and scotch tape. Then I starteded painting it with a thin coat of spray paint. When I was done with the first coat, I waited and hour and then went ahead and sprayed a second coat on. I then removed the masking and installed my hubcaps.-------------- Now here is the inspirational point I am trying to make to my fellow poor people: I went from the uglies piece of shiot (don;t forget the two tone colors), and with less than thirty bucks made it into ONE PIMP RIDE!!! Forget about Maaco or some expensive paint job if you have a piece of crap car that is embarrasing; if you use a simple color of spray paint like gloss black, you can make your vehicle look great. My car is now incredibly great looking in comparison to what it was, and I hope this inspires some other people with god awful vehicles to whip out the spray paint.
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Hello, i read this with interest. would this work with my 1991 hyundai sonata? The paint, a light grey , I have been told is dead and would cost to much to repaint at a pro shop. Could I use this idea and paint my car with several cans of say a dark metalic blue? What would I need to do after the paint is dry to seal it and protect it?
Thank you for any assistance.

One mans car goes from embarassing to more embarassing.

I know some cars that had full spray can paint jobs on them , only difference between what this young feller done is they did proper metal finish repairs first and instead of using resins they just replaced fenders and doors with junker parts that were salvageable. He also left out using body solvent to clean it after he sanded , thats a 6months to a year no no as well as the resin.
However depending on the paint he used , if he used a spray can of glossy enamel for top coat he might be ok. Just gotta learn how to maintain it which is simple too. I did lots of research into differences in spray paint enamels and auto enamels made to be used with a paint gun and can with reducers , well the can has one nice thing about it , no messing with reducers. The spray paint enamels are polishable and can last as long as manufacturers paints. (my teacher has a 56 chev he painted with enamel 10 years ago and you can still stand 5-6 feet away and tell what time it is on your watch through the reflection and it is not peeling , cracking or fading whatsoever) it depends mostly on the metal finish and time you put into it. Id say my teachers experiment went well.

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Hello, i read this with interest. would this work with my 1991 hyundai sonata? The paint, a light grey , I have been told is dead and would cost to much to repaint at a pro shop. Could I use this idea and paint my car with several cans of say a dark metalic blue? What would I need to do after the paint is dry to seal it and protect it?
Thank you for any assistance.
Wait a week before applying waxes or sealants , always wax before sealing and always seal after waxing. If you use carnuba waxes it will need redoing every few moths on an active car. If you use synthetics it can last forever if sealed properly. I have some good products for paint upkeep in my gallery , compunds , conditioners and sealants. Mothers and mc guires are very trouble free products with simple instructions and works for most types of paints.

Wait a week before applying waxes or sealants , always wax before sealing and always seal after waxing. If you use carnuba waxes it will need redoing every few moths on an active car. If you use synthetics it can last forever if sealed properly. I have some good products for paint upkeep in my gallery , compunds , conditioners and sealants. Mothers and mc guires are very trouble free products with simple instructions and works for most types of paints.


thank you
I have printed this info so i have a reference and will be in touch to ask about what selants are.
i am assuming i rought eh surafce, remove rust and bondo the spots and sand them smooth ans primer them then wash and clean all dust off with flowing water. then mask and use loads of spay cans
( the one you get at car shops for cars in say a dark metallic blue. )
let paint dry a week before useing a sinthetic wax like (not sure of a good wax) then seal somehow.. would that be more cans of a clear coat this time? i have a 8" simoniz orbatil random polisher will that help.
this looks like it will be a summer project.
thank you again for the helpful info.

you should really use a body solvent to promote adhesion. PM me for further details.