Tach Jumping Around

Hi,

I'm new to all this. But here is my problem:

When the engine is cool, everything runs fine. But when the engine is warm, the tachometer begins to jump around once i get about 3000 RPM. Then the car coughs and lags a bit, the service engine light flashes. I let off of the gas and the light goes off and the car keeps going, when i give it some gas the same thing happens until finally it just dies. I try starting it right after and it wont start but if i wait awhile i can start up and go a little ways.

So far i've changed the fuel filter, air filters, and had a standard tune-up done on it. including spark plugs and wires as well as the distributer cap and rotor attended to.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

not too sure, but could be the idle? Im having a little issue too, i think its the idler, when i start it up the revs go back and forth between 1000 and 1500, little bit of a rough idle... then again i do have 151,000 miles...

check for codes.

codes? mines almost at 200K km, its an '88

DO you know how to check your ECM for trouble codes?? (stored everytime your engine light comes on)

Either way, ide say its a problem in the ignition system, probably your coil..

No, how do I do this?

Do you have any ideas with the fluctuating tachometer?

If you've got an ignition system problem, the tach will jump around like that.. WHen you changed everything, did you use die-electric grease on all your plug boots??

Ok here goes..
Under your steering wheel youl see a small plug (may or may not have a cover on it) called the ALDL) This is your on-board diagnostics

On the very top, passenger side, you'l see two metal prongs beside eachother.. use a small piece of wire with allogator clips to jump the two prongs together..

Then turn your ignition on, your engine light will flash in certain sequences to give you numbers..

example
flash pause flash long pause flash pause flash pause flash

that would be code 23 (flashed twice for 2, long pause than flashed 3 times for 3) with me so far??

It will repeat each code it finds 3 times..

So I dont need any special equipment?

What do I compare the codes to to find out the problem?

no, no special equipment.. it can be very handy when diagnosing problems

well if you gave me the codes, I could tell you what they meant.. If not, a haynes manual will list them.. Might be able to find them on the internet

i have the haynes manual. What section would the codes be under?

If you've got the same book, it starts on 6-3

if not, its in Emissions control

I am not a mechanic by any means, but i really would like to learn from from all of this. thanks very much dude. I will have to try this out tomorrow.

If anyone else has suggestions, it'd be greatly appreciated.

lol.. I aint no mechanic either.. im self taught..

Good luck, let me know what ya pull up

no one mentioned that there might be a throttle cable problem... if your cable is broken when u step on it the engine will recieve alot of gas but no air because the throttle body isn't opening that would account for the bogging. that would also acount for the dying because it is gettin hardly any air. also accounts for the not starting because the engine would be flooded. just my :2cents: i think that really could be the problem. plus sometimes a broken cable isn't visible because the break is inside the rubber housing. i may very well be wrong but i think that's a place to check

if its temperature related, sounds like an engine misfire, or crossed plug wires, make sure you have the firing order correct, and that the correct wires go to the correct cylenders, cannot count the number of times i have diagnosed this same problem, to wind up swapping the 6 and 8 plug wires. this will cause the jumping tach, only noticeable at higher rpms. but should do it regardless of temp.