92 wagon just stop running

K here what happen was on a trip and it just stop while going down the highway. took th fuel line off and turn the key no gas flow. Replaced the fuel pump,filter and screen. Ran for about thirty minutes then stoped again. So I changed the fuel pressure regulater and that did not work. Got a code scanner and it give me the pass code of 111. It is getting spark the injectors are getting power but not sure they are pumping gas. Any clues of what this might be before i shell out anymore money of parts that don't need replacing. but still thinking the EEC has gone bad. Any help will be most greatful.

when your car dies out does it lose total power from the battery? The reason I ask is because I had a similar problem my car completely quit after running a short while. I found out that the battery wasn't making a great connection and when it warmed up it would totally lose power because the heat from the power loss opened the connection on the terminal so there was little connection with somethings working and others like power windows dead.

It may not be a fix to your problem just a suggestion

No Battery runs down after trying to start it. but thanks anyway.

I have taken the fuel rail off. the repair manual says that when the key is turned on that it is supposed to spray three times per injector but nothing happens when key is turned on.

All injectors fire when you turn the motor over. Any one wheather it may be possiable that it jump timing?

1st I would check ALL of your fuses, it may sound silly but always K.I.S.S (Keep it simple stupid) you would be amazed at how many times crazy problems like this are caused by a bad fuse or relay.

2nd I would check the Fuel pump relay. Make sure there is power and ground going to it when the key is on.

3rd I would check for power in and out of the Inertia switch (should be located in the trunk on the pass side of the car). It should have 2 wires going to it (Red and Green). Make sure the red button is depressed all the way and check for power on both wires with the key on (must be connected to inertia switch).

If this doesnt help, its time to get under the car with a DVOM (Digital multimeter) and check for Batt voltage at the fuel pump with the key on.

have check the inertia switch and all fuses. Not sure where the fuel relay is located. I have the tank droped from where i rechecked the wires for a short. The fuel pump wil prime itself eveytime the key is turned on. And there is good pressure at the fuel rail. Have check all hose that can be seen even under the battery. I have ran out of things to check. Just don't understand how when I change the fuel pump out it started running for a few then stoped again. what should the volt meter read at the pump? I will give that a shot. Want to check all areas before buying a new EEC to see if that will work.

Check your throttle linkage and throttle position sensor for looseness or up and down play. If this sensor is bad or giving an incorrect output it can shut down your injectors. :sunglasse

have check the inertia switch and all fuses. Not sure where the fuel relay is located. I have the tank droped from where i rechecked the wires for a short. The fuel pump wil prime itself eveytime the key is turned on. And there is good pressure at the fuel rail. Have check all hose that can be seen even under the battery. I have ran out of things to check. Just don't understand how when I change the fuel pump out it started running for a few then stoped again. what should the volt meter read at the pump? I will give that a shot. Want to check all areas before buying a new EEC to see if that will work.

Thought you said in the original post you had no fuel flow? If you have PSI at the rail, you should check to see if your injectors are getting a pulse. Hook a test light up to ground and check the injector for power with the key on. Then hook the test lead up to battery power and check to see if your getting a pulsing ground signal to the injector (with eng cranking). If your not getting a pulsing ground signal I would suspect a faulty CAM sensor.

When you hook up the DVOM at the fuel pump you should see battery voltage (12.6). It should come on for about 10 seconds to prime the system and cut out. Have someone cycle the key on and off for you.

the fuel pump will prime itself and the injectors are getting a pulse. I've checked everything i could think of. the coil. distribitor cap plugs and wires. All are fine. Damn I miss my 78 olds cutless. LOL If it was a cam senser wouldn't I get a code with the code scanner.

If there is pressure in the rail (30-45psi), Power and a cycling ground (pulse) to the injectors, and it isn't starting...........your problem isn't in the fuel delivery system.

Have you tried spraying Ether down the air intake and seeing if it starts?

Have you checked for spark?

have not check the psi trying to get a gauge. But when starting fluid is spay in the the intake manifold it starts right up.

one more thing my brother told me it might be my map sensor. Went looking for it and there is not one where the book says it should be. Book is a Haynes repair manual. Starting not to like this book. Can anyone tell me if I even have a map sensor?

I believe your car is only equipped with a MAF (mass air flow). If you suspect the MAF you could disconnect it and see if the problem clears, I highly doubt this is your problem though. Usually when MAF/MAP sensors go, the car will still run. Try and find out what the PSI is at the fuel rail..... this is pretty important. You may have 6lbs there..... not enough to run that car.

K finally got ahold of an guage. And there is no pressure what so ever. The guy a got the guage from said it might be the relay. but thew manual I have does not show where the damn thing is located. Any ideas where it is located and if that is the problem?

take your air idler senser off and clean it with carb cleaner

your maf is located on the outside of your air cleaner the beather hose is conected to it

I have already replaced the MAF sensor

bump

I think I have it narrowed down to a bad INTERGRATED RELAY CONTROL MODULE(IRCM) as soon as I save up the 150.00 bucks dealership only to buy it. Then will post back results.

Hey before you cough up the dough do what I did.

I had the same problem. I have a 1992 wagon. I was able to drive it fine, but when I would idle it would just die on me and would not turn on until half and hour to one hour later.

Open up your hood and follow the ground wire from your battery and look for an adapter that has two wire that is grounded to your car that connects the ground to your engine and other grounded parts. Mine was toast. The thing that would happen was that when it would heat up, it would become loose and i would loose ground. When it would cool off, I would be able to start then engine again.

If you really want to buy a new one, I have a new one that I got form the dealer and found out that I didn't need it at all.

But check the ground cables first. Have someone try to fire up the car while you are under the hood looking for a buzzing sound coming out of your relay. If you hear it or don't, whiggle the cable I mentioned and see if the car attemps to start.

thanks for the advice, will try that...still trying to get it running

No problem. The most trouble that you will have in finding what is wrong in a car is on it's electrical system.

another quick ? Is 9 volts at the fuel pump on the relay side good. I get 12.25 on the relay line coming out of the IRCM.

I'm WAG'ing that it should be atleast 12.

the ground line is good. And 12 is what i thought as well. going to try and jump both hot wires together and see what happens

cool. Just don't make a short near the gas tank.

If this is still occuring you need to get a good debug session going.

It seems to me that you have no idea where the problem is. An gas engine needs 3 things to run - gas/air, compression and a spark. Rather than blaming fuel, maybe it isn't getting a spark. This is easy, if you have a spare spark plug, keep it with you. Then when it fails pull a wire off the front, put the plug in and put it against the block. Have someone turn the engine over or if you are by yourself you might be able to get it on top of the engine enough to see if it is sparking or not. Your engine you may also be able to put the spark plug in where the coil wire connects to the distributor an put it where you can see it there. Be careful to put the spark plug on something very solid and not near or on some other electrical component. There is somewhere between 30,000 and 100,000 volts being sent to the plug depending on the ignition system. That can nuke solid state circuits! Don't worry, I do this all the time. Just be careful. BTW be careful how you hold it if you are holding it. If you get shocked, you will remember it. It is very unlikely to kill you but it will get your attention.... Not that this has ever happened to me... much.

If it is electrical, it could be the bundle of wires that go over your transmission. There is a sharp edge there and it is known to rub right through into the wires and short or break them. This can be intermittent as you describe. Maybe one of these wires goes back to your fuel pump!

Sometimes it can be the distributor. I don't see this much anymore, it used to happen all the time with points ignition systems (up to years 1975 in most cases, GM started putting electronic ignitions in cars as early as 1967). The darn distributor would get a crack in it, sometimes you couldn't even see it and cause trouble like this. Distributor and rotor are cheap. Take a look at the inside and see what it looks like. Sometimes just cleaning the crap that builds up in there can do wonders.

You may also be suffering from a bad sensor. Cars this day in age are controlled a great deal by a computer. Bad input, bad output. I had one car that it turned out to be the sensor in the arm of the air intake. When they work, they work great. When they don't, you need a diagnosis computer to tell you what is wrong.

Armonica