Engine Preparation for Turbo

hey,

i've got a 2000 civic si w/b16a. i'm getting to put a turbo on it, but haven't really decided which one to get. i'm leaning towards a turbo that runs at around 13-15 psi. which internals would i have to upgrade/replace to give my engine the strength to handle that much boost. what are other upgrades i should do to make sure i get maxium hp out of the turbo. thanks

Lance

How about a horsepower goal instead of some arbitrary useless boost goal.

boosted is right.. he's the man, he sure helped me out with turbo stuff

i'd like to get atleast 260 but 275 would be great.

i'd like to get atleast 260 but 275 would be great.

I'm going to assume you're talking wheel because you have noway of measuring crank HP without pulling the motor. For 275 I would leave the motor bone stock and invest any money you might have put into internals towards hondata. Stock honda blocks are much stronger than you think, but the horror stories you hear of people blowing motors comes from those who try and run 14 pounds on a stock motor with an FMU and the hack.

if you want 260 at the crank you'll be looking at about 10-11 psi. You will need to get forged rods and pistons, head studds and low compression head gasket, boost controller fuel rail, fuel pump, huge injectors, beefy clutch, a very nice fuel soleniod, and fuel managment unit. :2cents:

how much am i looking cash am i looking at for all that stuff? i'm sure there are abunch of places on the net to get that stuff, but does anyone know any really good places? thanks, and sorry for the lack of knowledge.

well if you build the block alittle it would be easier to reach, like upgrade the valve train and run like skunk2 stage 2 cams, keep the compression the same or lower littel just alittel, upgrade the pistons and rods, get a type r or skunk 2 intake manifold, and a turbo kit and up the boost to about 9 or 10psi and you shoudl be at 260whp.

well if you build the block alittle it would be easier to reach, like upgrade the valve train and run like skunk2 stage 2 cams, keep the compression the same or lower littel just alittel, upgrade the pistons and rods, get a type r or skunk 2 intake manifold, and a turbo kit and up the boost to about 9 or 10psi and you shoudl be at 260whp.


What the fuck are you talking about? I have an idea, if you dont have any clue what you're talking about DONT GIVE PEOPLE ADVICE. Skunk2 stage 2 cams for turbo? Shit. New pistons and rods? Dont need em. new intake manifold? Dont need it. Christ, if everybody listened to the people on this board we'd be running around with toda VTEC killers, 8:1 compression with new rods, a stroker crank, thicker headgaskets, LS transmissions, an FMU and a T25 at 10 psi.

In your shoes I would leave the motor stock, run an inlinepro manifold, precision SC61, hondata, a PTE intercooler, and a walbro 255 pump. I have a friend who made 333 WHP on 91 octane, stock B16 at 11 psi from an SC61. You don't need any other shit.

hahaha boosted you crack me up.. but you're right about all the shit that flies around on this forum.. every thread turns into an arguement or a flame fest, rarely is an answer given and that's that.. don't those stage 2 cams have massive overlap?? not good for turbo..
anyway.. after reading this over and over, i'll just keep my mouth shut, except for recommending to listen to what boosted says, he probably knows quite a bit more than everyone else in this thread ~no offence~

it dont matter what your friend did, if you want to talk about friends power, we can talk about my friends motor whom i helped build that puts out 450whp at 15psi, crvtec.

if you dotn know what your talking about dont give advice. you know what my setup leaves, it leaves room for more boost. people get greedy with boost, you give them a stock block and 11psi of boost and of course what do they do, they up the boost more. if you build it alittle, there urge to up the boost wont result in a blown engine.

and those stage 2s, dont have massive overlap, maybe alittle but not alot, again this is all rumors. wouldnt hurt at all, it would only help the overall hp.

do you know that if you up the stock hp number when you start to boost, thru more flow for example with intake manis and cams, you will rise the amount of hp per psi. with my setup, you would reach the desired hp with less boost then with your stock setup.

yeah you dont need the rods and pistons but at 11psi i wouldnt feel safe runnin stock parts.

Most Skunk 2 products, such as the cams and intake manifold, are researched and designed more for N/A motors. The skunk 2 intake manifold is modeled directly after the ITR manifold, so you won't really see that impressive of a gain from it as you would from the JG Edlebrock Victor X or something along those lines. Listen to Boosted, he knows his shit.

i listed those parts because the skunk2 intake manifold is better for the street and would make the power in a more usable power band then the victor x manifold.

so what are you saying 95teg, na parts shouldnt be used for fi ? if thats the case then you shouldnt be using a honda block or head because its designed for na, and shouldnt be used for fi.

all cams are designed for na unless they are turbo cams, so whats yoru point with this. so your saying that all the high hp racers out there use turbo cams or stock cams, because if they use something else, then i guess your theory about not using na parts in fi would be wrong. so either everyone out there uses turbo or stock cams or your wrong and people do use na parts in there fi buildup.

again all these parts are going to be used in a low boosted motor. the idea is to get as high hp as you can stock so when you boost, you make lots of power with little boost

I'm not saying you shouldn't use n/a parts. I'm just saying you'll see better gains from those that are researched and designed specifically for forced induction.

for him to reach his goal of about 275whp he will not need to upgrade his internals at all. You can leave the motor bone stock and boost 10psi no problem with proper tuning on a stock b16, you can even go higher then that it just depends on the tuner. A Properly sized t3/t4 will get you to your goals no problem at about 10psi.

I would go with something like a precision sc34 or something likea t3/t4 .63 a/r for the fact of that matter. If you need help with any parts by all means PM me

look at the last sentence in his post, what other things should i upgrade to get maximum hp out of the turbo, what will get him maximum hp out of the turbo, a intake mani and cams. with the cams and the intake mani he could run less boost and it would be overall safer on the motor.

and look at the sentence in my post, it would be easier to reach with the intake mani and cams, and if you think other wise then you dont know turbo motors.

and again the rods and pistons which are only about 800 would ensure he doesnt break anything.

he didnt say hes low on money and needs the cheapest way, by the sound of his post it looks like he has the money so if you got the money why wouldnt you use some of it to ensure you dont blow your motor. its only common sense. i hate cheap engine builders

yeah i'm pretty good on funds right now, i just don't want to blow it on parts i don't need.

now if you're pointing fingers at me then here we go.

Aftermarket Rods & Pistons or not doesn't mean shit. You can have all the aftermarket shit you want in your motor, and if it isn't tuned right you can blow that shit with only 5psi and how do I know because I have seen it happen. PSI has nothing to do with anything, you need to look at the CFM's buddy. 10psi on a mitsubishi 14b is not the same as 10psi on a T3/T4 turbo.

You don't need an intake manifold, and cams etc . . . but you can get them. Don't expect to see a huge amount if power gains from that. if you want the most out of your turbo setup and money is no issue you can do a lot of things. I"m not saying that using a aftermarket intake manifold, and cam shafts won't benifit, but it's not gona do a huge amount. If you're dead set on making a really good setup and $$ is no issue then get some:

Rods & Pistons
and make sure that you get a proper sized turbo, and a good fuel managment setup and you'll be in heaven, but if you're only planning on running like 10psi then there's no need for aftermarket rods & pistons.

i didnt say you need anything, i jsut said it would be easier and safer to run the things i said to get the desired hp.

if you run the hondata, then you gotta convert to obd 1, then buy the hondata unit, then pay a tuner to tune it. so its gonna be alot anyways.

and you say if untuned aftermarket rods and pistons dont mean shit, well just because you tune soemthing really good, doesnt mean stock rods and pistons will handle it.

so psi doesnt matter, so your saying if for some odd reason i run 30psi on my stock b16 and only made 280whp, it should be fine since psi doesnt matter. psi has alot to do with it, also the right tune has a lot to do with it too.

so your saying i dont look at flow, why do you think i suggested a intake mani and cams, because it flows more so you would get more hp, i know about flow. but getting hp from the motor before you boost it has a great affect on the hp per psi