Low as a Mutha

HAHA got ya.:D
My oil pressure at idle is non-existent. This only really occurs after I've been fanging it for a bit. I run Elf synthase 5w-50w fully synthetic. Is this normal or do I need a new oil pump ? :(

Originally posted by NA Racer
HAHA got ya.:D
My oil pressure at idle is non-existent. This only really occurs after I've been fanging it for a bit. I run Elf synthase 5w-50w fully synthetic. Is this normal or do I need a new oil pump ? :(

If I have understood your question right, then TURN OFF YOUR ENGINE. I takes a LOT of damage if the oil pressure is NON existent.

I don't know how long your engine has been running or how old it is, but even though your choice of oil is very thin (if it is an old engine) then it should still be able to hold pressure, so if I were you I would have my engine checked out in a hurry.

You have changed your Oil filter right!?*LOL*

How low is low as a mutha? like 15psi, or 0psi?

LOW! Just on or slightly above the 0psi mark, increases according to revs. When I first start car in the morning it's just below halfway mark. Is this normal too?!
And yes I changed my oil and filter 3 weeks ago, every 4-6 months.

Curious...does ur car come with an oil pres gauge stock...or was this something you put in?

I'm pretty sure that all g20/primera's come with oil gauge stock. Only difference between mine and yours is it is measured in kg/cm2 vs psi.

Would u mind posting a pic of what it looks like? Cuz I only have a temp gauge :)

my oil pressure is just under half when hot

We don't have oil pressure gauges as stock here in Europe!?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/289155MaxSpeed2People250Kgofluggage.JPG

Allright I'll shut the hell up and put a picture up as soon as I can steal a digital camera. Must just be th JDM models with oil pressure!! OOOOPS:o
Interesting to see that Team Nissan your car redlines around 6500rpm, mine does at 7500rpm.

Originally posted by NA Racer

Interesting to see that Team Nissan your car redlines around 6500rpm, mine does at 7500rpm.

My car is stock and SUCKS!!*LOL* It redlines at 6835rpm!! But sooooooon to be over because I have just bought a SR20VE he he he

SR20VE is all good!!!! You have done well my son. Post some pics of it before and after it is in. This will be my next mod after saving heaps of money!! HOw much was yours?

Originally posted by NA Racer
SR20VE is all good!!!! You have done well my son. Post some pics of it before and after it is in. This will be my next mod after saving heaps of money!! HOw much was yours?

You don't want to know........... he he he

1850NZD

Engine 5000-10000Km
Wiring harnes
ECU
MFA
Exhaust system ;)

I had budgeted $2k NZ. SO I wasn't far off. Post those pics!!

OKI here is a couple of pics......



http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/805195Exhaustside&Top.jpg

One more.......


http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/784519Intakeside3.jpg

and the last one....... :)


http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/873201IntakesideTop.jpg

Mmmm, yummy! :flash: :flash:

A little elbow grease and you'll have that puppy shining like a gem. :D

I want one! :)

Looks like most everyone here is leaning towards SR20VE instead of SR20DET?

HMMMM........Damn that looks good!
Please tell me that we can put one in my P10, PLEASE!!!

Looks like most everyone here is leaning towards SR20VE instead of SR20DET?


GO the NA race cars!!!

lucky you :D quick get it in there and dyno it for us. :D

Thanx all, :frog:

I'm also VERY fund of it!! It is kind of my new baby, but don't say it when my girlfriend is listening!!*LOL*

G-Forces> Trust me it is going to get the whole package

V_Knot> In Denmark it is because of the very strict regulations concerning what you can do to your engine. It is VERY difficult to cheat, because from when the cars are 4 years old they have to go to something called Periodic view (Think it is called MOT-Test in some countries) every second year. And it is a little difficult to hide a complete turbo set-up rather than a NA tune up!

NA Racer> Thanx! ;) Actually it is Sandy which has helped me.....!! He has done ALL the research, made the contact and got answers for ALL my questions!! He has REALLY been a GREAT help! Couldn't have done it without him! He is cool........:sun:

AznVirus> I PROMISE you that the second it is in and running as supposed to then I will put it on the Dyno and scan the graphs for you guys! :)

You guys have temperature readings!? All we have is the odometer lol :)

Originally posted by TeamNissan


You don't want to know........... he he he

1850NZD

Engine 5000-10000Km
Wiring harnes
ECU
MFA
Exhaust system ;)
OK guy, time to let us poor souls in on it!....

1st, is it 1850NZD in Denmark or NZ/AU?????

2nd, where in NZ you got it for 1850????

3rd, 5-10K!!!!! Man, this is as low as it gets!!! I do not want to be a devil's advocate, and in the pictures it sure look terrific, but how can you be sure the Km are so low???

4th, do you know what car it came off??? There were some SR20VE equiped models in Japan (including an all-terrain) and VEs were different among them.

5th, what about the transmission??? Is it included, available as extra item, not available, 5 or 6 gears???

6th, pleeeeeasee, answer all of the above!
I could really use :flash: one of those for NZD1850!!! The fact that I live in Greece is irrelevant at this point!....

Chris

A guy I know sourced one in NZ for $2k from a new primera with the cvt gearbox. I forget which model.

DAMN!!!!! I just did the conversion... $1850NZD is like $791 USD. YOU LUCKY BASTARD!!!! I am soooooo jealous! :D Congrats!

Originally posted by hpro123

OK guy, time to let us poor souls in on it!....

1st, is it 1850NZD in Denmark or NZ/AU?????

2nd, where in NZ you got it for 1850????

3rd, 5-10K!!!!! Man, this is as low as it gets!!! I do not want to be a devil's advocate, and in the pictures it sure look terrific, but how can you be sure the Km are so low???

4th, do you know what car it came off??? There were some SR20VE equiped models in Japan (including an all-terrain) and VEs were different among them.

5th, what about the transmission??? Is it included, available as extra item, not available, 5 or 6 gears???

6th, pleeeeeasee, answer all of the above!
I could really use :flash: one of those for NZD1850!!! The fact that I live in Greece is irrelevant at this point!....

Chris

hi hi OK sure!

1: Yep 1850NZD

2/4: From Graeme It was from a 99 Station Wagon with a CVT tranny - He hasn't shipped it yet, so please don't steal it from me..... ;)

3: I can't be all sure, but T4 Primera (Sandy) had the valve cover and oil pan of the engine, and he says that it really looks fine and new!

5: The transmission has been taken of and sold to someone else 9 month ago!

6: Sure, but I have already ordered one more for one of my friends!! But I will let him know that I have one more, which is interested! :)

Originally posted by NA Racer
A guy I know sourced one in NZ for $2k from a new primera with the cvt gearbox. I forget which model.

Hey NA Racer!

I bought it from Graeme with a LOT of help from Sandy! :-)

Originally posted by JustinP10
DAMN!!!!! I just did the conversion... $1850NZD is like $791 USD. YOU LUCKY BASTARD!!!! I am soooooo jealous! :D Congrats!

Thanx Justin

Yep I was VERY lucky!! :frog: he he he

Have you just put a VE in your G20!? - Because then I know who I have to irritate with AAAAAALLLLLL my questions..... he he he :devil:

Originally posted by TeamNissan


Thanx Justin

Yep I was VERY lucky!! :frog: he he he

Have you just put a VE in your G20!? - Because then I know who I have to irritate with AAAAAALLLLLL my questions..... he he he :devil:

If someone would sell me a SR20VE for that price, I would be more than happy to be the guinea pig, with perfect documentation about the install. I'd also do my best to get all the US aftermarket companies to make parts for the motor too :D

Originally posted by NA Racer
HAHA got ya.:D
My oil pressure at idle is non-existent. This only really occurs after I've been fanging it for a bit. I run Elf synthase 5w-50w fully synthetic. Is this normal or do I need a new oil pump ? :( My car has been doing exactly the same - for the last 3 years and 30 000 km (Mobil 1 5w-50). However, I have NEVER had the red warning light come on.

It only seems to do it on the warmest of days. Perhaps the engine bay temperature is affecting the resistance in the wiring from the sender. I have a good Stewart Warner mechanical gauge in my V8 to test it with, but just haven't got around to doing it.

Let me know if you find out anything. I think the senders are around 80-90 bux.

Originally posted by A380Driver
Would u mind posting a pic of what it looks like? Cuz I only have a temp gauge :) Here's a scan of a P10 Te/T4 instrument diagram. Apologies for the poor image quality.

D:\Rally\Instruments1.jpg

Originally posted by T4 Primera
Here's a scan of a P10 Te/T4 instrument diagram. Apologies for the poor image quality.

D:\Rally\Instruments.jpg

cant see it! :)

Originally posted by hpro123

OK guy, time to let us poor souls in on it!....

1st, is it 1850NZD in Denmark or NZ/AU?????

2nd, where in NZ you got it for 1850????

3rd, 5-10K!!!!! Man, this is as low as it gets!!! I do not want to be a devil's advocate, and in the pictures it sure look terrific, but how can you be sure the Km are so low???

4th, do you know what car it came off??? There were some SR20VE equiped models in Japan (including an all-terrain) and VEs were different among them.

5th, what about the transmission??? Is it included, available as extra item, not available, 5 or 6 gears???

6th, pleeeeeasee, answer all of the above!
I could really use :flash: one of those for NZD1850!!! The fact that I live in Greece is irrelevant at this point!....

Chris Just thought I'd add my answers as well. Been away for a week hence the late reply ...

1. $1850 New Zealand Dollars not including shipping. It is in NZ.

2. From a Wrecker or Automotive Dismantler. I won't be more specific than that until the deal for Carsten has been finalised.

The car had a frontal crash in Japan, was written off and imported to NZ. It doesn't take much to write off a car in Japan because any car over 2 years old has to undergo the "SHA KEN" which involves very strict and expensive inspections. Lucky for us because we get all their cast-offs.

3. How do we know?? Well we don't. That was the guess of the guy selling it. I did look at the car but the dash had already been removed.

Considering the car was a 1999 model, and that the wrecker had it for approx. 10 months, add time for shipping/sale/purchase transactions, and it is likely the car was taken off the road near the end of 2000 beginning of 2001. Therefore the car was a maximum of 2 years old when taken off the road.

I didn't actually remove the rocker cover, just peeked in throught the oil filler cap. I did remove the oil pan and peeked up through the baffle into the crankcase and under the pistons. Everything I saw indicated an engine in excellent condition.

4&5. The engine came out of a red 1999 P11 wagon with 6-speed auto (CVT). The transmission was sold last year to somewhere in Christchurch.

5. You might be waiting awhile. Graeme only has the one VE and I don't know if he'll get more. However he did say that wrecking this car has been quite profitable for him, so that may encourage him to find more.

Originally posted by A380Driver


cant see it! :) Sorry A380, I can't seem to attach the file as normal - the attach file function on the forum will only allow .txt files WTF. Never mind. If you want, PM your email addy and I'll send it that way.

Hey Sandy, I've never had the oil light either but the pressure is way down. If it was the sender then wouldn't it be screwed all the time! My oil pressure rises if I blip the throttle or if I hold the revs higher than idle. I don't have a clue but I do know that underbonnet temp is high, even though the temp gauge is just below half! Is there any point in taking off the heat shielding on top/bottom(depends how you look at it really!) of bonnet.

Originally posted by NA Racer
Hey Sandy, I've never had the oil light either but the pressure is way down. If it was the sender then wouldn't it be screwed all the time! My oil pressure rises if I blip the throttle or if I hold the revs higher than idle. I don't have a clue but I do know that underbonnet temp is high, even though the temp gauge is just below half! Is there any point in taking off the heat shielding on top/bottom(depends how you look at it really!) of bonnet. I don't think removing the heat sheilding would help much. The temperature thing is just a guess, since driving around town on a hot day seems to lower the reading, while cruising on the open road doesn't lower it so much, when it's dropped back to idle.

Yes, the oil pressure should rise, up to a point, with revs. On the worst days, mine settles a little below 1. The way to confirm if it is genuine is to attach another oil pressure gauge. I still haven't done it in 3 years so don't hold your breath. That's why I say let me know if you find out anything.

Believe me, if I thought it was anything other than instrument error in my car, I'd have that engine shut down faster than a ... er ... really fast thing.:)

Even with 'low' pressure there are no other signs that would signify a problem. What is your oil pressure first thing in the morning?

Originally posted by NA Racer
Even with 'low' pressure there are no other signs that would signify a problem. What is your oil pressure first thing in the morning? Just under 4kg/cm2. You're getting me all worked up about it now. I might just have to hook that gauge up or talk to an instrument technician soon.:p :p

Thanks for the email T4. Wow thats not fair I want a oil press gauge too :) hehe

Wonder if the US P10 has the hookups for this....if you could swap out the instrument cluster for the other one?

Originally posted by A380Driver
Thanks for the email T4. Wow thats not fair I want a oil press gauge too :) hehe

Wonder if the US P10 has the hookups for this....if you could swap out the instrument cluster for the other one? Don't forget all the units are metric. km, km/hr and kg/cm2. And I don't think the instruments are that accurate either. If I remember, next week I will price a second-hand one just in case they are cheap.

Sorry to scare ya! My oil pressure is exactly the same!!!

O.K. NA Racer, I'll try to set you at ease a little.

My Haynes manual for U.K. Primeras lists minimum oil pressure at normal operating temperature at idle as 0.78 bar which is about 0.79 kg/cm2. So taking instrument inaccuracies into account, we're not far off.

I also called Jim Wright Nissan here in Hamilton last year to get the specs for the JDM P10 oil pressure as follows.

78-85kPa at idle which is 0.8-0.87 kg/cm2.
316-349.73kPa at 3200 rpm which is 3.2-3.57 kg/cm2.

I get very close to these figures on a cool night with the engine warmed up. When everything is stinkin hot, they come in lower.

Have a look at where the idle pressures are on your gauge (5/8ths of F.A.) It doesn't take much inaccuracy in the gauge, due possibly to temperature induced resistance in the wiring, to make it look like no oil pressure.

Lets say 0.8 kg/cm2 (which is only 11.4 psi) is minimum. It would make sense to have the warning light operate below this at say .6 kg/cm2 or 8.5 psi (I don't know what pressure it is actually). Therefore if your gauge reads 0 but the warning light isn't on, then either your gauge is out by at least 8.5 psi, or your warning light is not working.

Hope that eases your mind a little,
Sandy

Thankyou that was a most informative post;)
I didn't really think that I had big problems, but another thing I have noticed is that when I start up in the mornign oil warning light stays on for about 1 -1.5sec accompanied by a rattle from engine. Ratlle stops = light stops?!?! What is this? Is it oil pump trying to pump highly viscous oil? Once again, do I need a new oil pump?

Originally posted by NA Racer
Thankyou that was a most informative post;)
I didn't really think that I had big problems, but another thing I have noticed is that when I start up in the mornign oil warning light stays on for about 1 -1.5sec accompanied by a rattle from engine. Ratlle stops = light stops?!?! What is this? Is it oil pump trying to pump highly viscous oil? Once again, do I need a new oil pump? Mine is the same. Overnight, oil drains down from the galleries and it just takes a little time to fill them up again on start-up. The rattle is just from the timing chain and rockers, while the timing chain tensioner and hydraulic lash adjusters are pumping up with oil (not a problem) and that is why it disappears once the oil pressure appears.

Nissan did make a modified timing chain tensioner which may help get rid of that rattle. Just stay off the gas pedal on start-up until the oil pressure stabilises.;)

Originally posted by JustinP10


If someone would sell me a SR20VE for that price, I would be more than happy to be the guinea pig, with perfect documentation about the install. I'd also do my best to get all the US aftermarket companies to make parts for the motor too :D

Don't worry!! I will take lots of pictures and write a lot of notes so I can help the rest of P11 owners with the swap! ;)

Here's a pic of mine (ok I know its dirty, I just got back from the beach)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/263794T4AWDinteriorinstrumentcluster.jpg

Hey Sandy,

NEWER seen that before!? :confused:

Damn your G redlines at 7500 my G redlines at 6500!?*Grrrrrrr*
Is it because your's a GT engine!? :)

Mine is as you know standard with GT mods, same as Neil! :)

As far as I can determine, I have the same engine as the Te, Ts, Tm and yes the 2.0e GT which is 150PS @ 6400rpm and 19kg-m @ 4800rpm.:D

Could you please translate 150ps for this dummy.
Thanx

150PS = 148HP = 110kW
19kg-m = 137.4ft-lb = 186Nm
;)

Originally posted by T4 Primera
As far as I can determine, I have the same engine as the Te, Ts, Tm and yes the 2.0e GT which is 150PS @ 6400rpm and 19kg-m @ 4800rpm.:D

It is sooooo unfair............*LOL*

But soon to be over..... he he he ;)

Originally posted by T4 Primera
150PS = 148HP = 110kW
19kg-m = 137.4ft-lb = 186Nm
;)

Thank you i am now enlightened!!!!:angel: What is the formula for working that out? I know the fomula for converting HP to KW and vice versa.
Thannks

Originally posted by Primal SMX


Thank you i am now enlightened!!!!:angel: What is the formula for working that out? I know the fomula for converting HP to KW and vice versa.
Thannks I'm not sure of the PS - HP or kW conversion, I use this nifty little conversion tool. I think PS is within 2% of HP.

If the forum allowed it I'd post it here, but it doesn't. So instead ..... you have mail.

Originally posted by Primal SMX


Thank you i am now enlightened!!!!:angel: What is the formula for working that out? I know the fomula for converting HP to KW and vice versa.
Thannks

Use this page! :)

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

Thanks guys!!:D