Glue for clear parts

Hi!
I', looking for some clear glue (for windows, lights, etc). I already have one from Revell but it sucks :disappoin
What are you using and it works the best? Testors? Tamiya?
Thanks!

Well, they told me at the LHS that most of the white moisture is because of the fat of your fingers. Not because of the glue. Make sure you clean the clear parts before attching. that would work a lot better. Unfortunately I can't advice you about the glue as I work with glue from my LHS.

I'h having problems with glue. It's all jelly whichs makes gluing difficult - it streches to infinity ...

Microscale Kristal Klear (the same makers of Micro Set and Micro Sol) is specifically made for gluing clear parts. It dries super clear.

You should never use super-glue/cyano with clear parts.

The finger print that shows on the clear part is when the cyano reacts to the amino acids, glucose, and other proteins left behind when you touch something. The fuming of cyano can be used to find fingerprints of criminals sorta of like the ever popular Beverly Hills Cop 2 scene.

If you use cyano on clear model parts your fingerprint will etch the plastic and now the clear piece is garbage.

how do you apply it? It doesn have fine tip :screwy:

Use a toothpick or something similar......

OK, I'll order one bottle of this glue. Is it drying fast? I guess overall it's better than testors?

hmmm i dunno i use the testors clear glue package that came in the starter kit that i have, (came with paint, knife, sand paper, etc) and it has a fine tip and i have had absolutely no problems with it so far other then its not the fastest drying glue, say maybe 30 mins or so, it dries VERY clear, other then that i highly recommend it

I use white glue (like elmers) for windows that stay in place by themselves. For tougher ones I use 5 minute epoxy.
Both dry clear.
:p

i was just going to say...elmers white glue works pretty well...

For very small parts I use enamel paint or "Future" style floor polish. For larger parts "Araldite" two part epoxy.

The Testor's white (read Elmer's) glue in the "kite" shaped bottle with the needle-like tip applicator. It dries clear and provides a decent bond. You can also use a clear (or black) acrylic such as future or X-18.

hth,
Bill

The Testor's white (read Elmer's) glue in the "kite" shaped bottle with the needle-like tip applicator. It dries clear and provides a decent bond. You can also use a clear (or black) acrylic such as future or X-18.

hth,
Bill
:iagree:
hehe almost same thing i said

If you are in the USA ask your LHS about Formula 360 Canopy Glue it works better than Micro Krystal Klear and you get more glue for your money. It also seems to last longer. Squirt some out on an old CD and use a toothpick to apply it, wipe of the excess with a damp Q-tip or tissue.

hmm, dilema :smile:
I found this on internet:
Testors clear parts cement - built-in thin applicator, thin consistency, must scrape paint or plating before use, will not fill in gaps, may craze.

Microscale Micro crystal clear - no applicator included, medium consistency, may fill in small gaps, will not craze parts.

I think I'll go with Microscale.

Renegade:count me in.

D.J. will tell you the details,i spoke to him about this today.

i noticed tesors white glue seems to yellow over time, i have tons of old models that have yellow around the headlights.

Hey guys, go to your local Mercator and on the shelve with pens, papers and other school stuf you will see botlles of glue (I can't remember the name right now) that dryes clear and can be washed with water, it works very good with clear parts, not strong as super glue but it works fine with lights.
Rgds,

@sjelic: bom pogledal ;)

@jdmhotrod: yellow around the lens could come from dust and 'dirt' that settles down through the years.