Update on my POS

Go a lot of work done last week. The car should run by thursday if all goes well. :D This will probably get long, but it may be good reading if you're really bored :lol:

So I had pulled the tranny after snapping the input shaft in two. Shepperd said he has never seen that before. SWEET :lol: There was some other wear in there as well including but not limited to 3rd gear, 2nd gear synchro, 3rd/4th hub-slider-synchro assembly, billet forks (replaced with stock), and the speed design center diff was trashed again. SO, 1000 bucks later it came back to me, I still had to assemble it, and its now in the car. In place of the 4 spider diff is a TRE spool, so the car is now 4 wheel drive, not all wheel drive. Unfortunately the gear on the outside of the center diff is missing half a tooth. I bet its no coincidence that its the reason 3rd gear had to be replaced. I asked the local group if anyone had a center diff with broken spider gears, so I could use the case, but i got no replies. I dont know how long that busted one will last, and wether or not it will take out 3rd gear again rquiring yet another rebuild. :banghead:

While the tranny was away I pulled the motor to change the tbelt. Since my motor comes out in about 20 minutes when the tranny is out, its faster tht way :) Installed one of those new blue super stron tbelts. Which is good, because the one that I took out had low mileage, but was significantly stretched. This one didnt break between the teeth yet, which I've seen on he last few belts. While I had the belt off, I also decided to install a set of cam gears that have been collecting dust since I scored them in a 6 bolt swap i did for someone. With all the maching done to my head and block, its impossible to get my cam gears lined up proerply. All of the geometry is thrown off. Since I ave been getting very high airflow numbers, but not the power to match it (1 lb/min airflow is toughly 10 HP), I suspected I had too much overlap and all that extra air was just getting blwon out the exhaust when the intake and exhaust valves were both open at the same time (hence the term, overlap). Sure enough, both cam hgears are rotated inwards, and always have been since I did a 6 bolt swap, which increases overlap. So I just adjusted thegears to put the cams where they should be if all marks lined up properly. I'm hoping for a nice drop in airflow. It wont affect power though, since it was all wasted air anyway. But it will be less work for my turbo.

Speaking of which the new turbo is in. But I couldnt install it fully since AGP welded the O2 bung in such a way that the sensor hits the electrical connector on the back of my alternator. Doh! I'll fix that this week. So to recap this is a large turbo. Its known as a TO4R, or GT67. MAny supras run it (www.to4r.com) and make sick pump gas HP. The wheel is in a TO4S cover with 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet. So I have to redo the whole intake pipe and lower intercooler pipe setup. The hot side is a t3 housing, .82 AR, and a T4 O trim turbine wheel. Cant wait to see if this thing spools before redline or not :lol: ITs a dry center, so there are on water lines to the turbo. I swapped out my 90 turbo water parts for 1g NT parts. Tstat housing, water neck, and water pipe are all NT. Fewer lines, more reliability. Of course it came with the SFP tubular t3 manifold, and a 3" O2 housing as well. The WG dumptube is stainless, and I'll be using my trusty old Tial 38mm from before.

Once hte car is back together I have to trailer the car to my favorite exhaust shop to have the DP modified so its a true 3" DP all the way to a 3" flange at the O2 housing. Unfortunately you cant buy such a thing, it has to be custom. While its there they can move that O2 bung for me. Man I'm getting lazy in my old age...

I also upgraded to a 3.5" GM MAF to go with the MAFt I've been running. Which I probably dont need now that airflow should come down from the cam gear adjustments. That required a 3-3.5" UCIP. So to avid nekingback down to 2.5' at the throttle body I adapted a NT throttle body for turbo car use. Mainly the turbo shaft seals. I also eliminated the FIAV, which I have had (the coolant hoses) bypassed for some time. So this will give the BISS control again. I am also elimiating the ISC. The throttle closed switch will set idle in the ballpark (like an old school carb with the screw that piushes on the throttle to set idle) and the BISS will be the fine control. If the idle is erratic and changes with the weather and the alignment of the planets, I will reinstall the ISC. But I know it works without the FIAV, so that at least is gone. The NT TB has a 3" inlet, so that works perfectly with my huge UICP. I still need to modify the Tial flange so I can put the BOV on the 3.5" section of UICP pipe.

I also relocated the battery to the hatch, but still have toseal and vent the box so it will pass tech. I welded up a mount for the box where hte spare tire was. The positive cable runs though a 140 amp breaker, to the external cutoff switch mounted on the rear bumper that is required by NHRA/IHRA, then goes up to the engine bay. The switch has an extra set of contacts that i ran the fuel pump wiring through, so it kills the motr when you hit it. It then comes in to a 4 way fused distribution block. A 4 guage line dropes down (unfused) to the starter, which I harness to use the stock trigger wire and stock red rubber boot at the starter. The two ring terminals that go to the battery on a 2g are each bolted to a fused output on the block. I removed the set screw and found a boltwith the same thread. This way I can easily go back if I have to ;) The negative side was redone as well. There is a 4 ga ground wire from a starter bolt to the shock tower. I cleaned all the paint off of the stud where the stock battery hold down mounted. There is another going from the head to the firewall, and a braided strap from the block to the head. Hopefuly this will help with my starting issues (bad positive starter wire) and ignition troubles (head ground). Pretty clean setup, I'll post pics on my site later on.

I have been having trouble keeping electric oil pressure guage senders alive, they dont like high vibration. Autometer sells a kit, but I made my own with some adapters and AN line/fittings. Its now remote mounted on the drivers side fender, where all the AC crap used to be. Grounded it drirectly to the guage so it should be very accurate as well. This one should last longer.

My flywheel was all cracked to hell as well. IT was cracked up last time but machined out. Its only been ~2k miles though, so I no longer trust that flywheel. I bought chads old one off him and installed that with my old cutch. The pressure plate has been overheated as well. I dont expect it to last long. IF the car runs 11.5 as it should, I'll have to replace the whole thing anyway. NHRA/IHRA require SFI approved flywheels and scattershields (clutches too, but ACT are sfi approved) once you need a rollcage. So I'll replace the cluthc then as well. Clutch, flywheel, and scattershild will cost me a grand. Cant wait :lol: Not to mention ~800 for a cage...

So aside from the clutch being beat, and the issue with the center diff, the car should finaly be ready to do its parts some justice. I will probably dyno on a dynojet (thanks to 4 wheel drive I Can now) ASAP just to get a number before I break it at the track. I'll be trailering it up just so I can open up a can on it and not worry about getting it home. Time to get serious. :D Hope it all works out well. I'll be putting the rest of it together wednesday, and trailering it to the exhaust shop thursday. With any luck, I'll run it friday night. IF not, I'll take the cummins turbo diesel to the truck only event saturday :D

Ahh yes, the joys of a DSM. I hope all works out well for you, and you can lay down some sick HP numbers. :)

Stutter box + antilag + 2.3 = spool goodness. Few questions for you, like always:
1. Where did you get your stroker crank?
2. What's going to happen with the 3''MAF?
3. TRE spool means switchable 4WD? How long does it take?
4. 11.5 pump gas?
5. Did you get banned from the track yet? You only need a roll cage AFTER you run 11's :)
Good luck with that turbo, I saw some 700whp supra dynos with the 'HKS TO4R' that were spooling until 4500-5000. Go 2.3!

1) SBR built this motor.
2) already sold :D
3) Spool isnt really switchable, not like a VC eliminator
4) yes, Should be doable on pump gas. If not, race gas it is... Maybe just a gallon or two to take the edge off ;)
5) Not yet. NHRA tracks require a cage and all the SFI BS from 11.99 and quicker. My track is IHRA, which requires it all at 11.49 and quicker. But if you run a 11.49999 they are all over your ass.

IF this thing spools by 4500, I'll be very happy. That was what I gave for my maximum lag tolerance when we speced out this turbo. But its not a huge deal, since I finally hooked up the antilag feature in DSMlink (full throttle shifting = no lag or respool between gears).

Who helped decide the turbo?

Damn DSM Link is getting more tepmting by the minute.

Who helped decide the turbo?

I sent out my "request" to a couple turbo companies. SBR built the last half dozen for me, so I wanted to try something different, just for the hell of it. AGP came up with a great option, and I liked the sound of it. We worked together on the specs, and this is what I ended up with. I have to get AGP as much info as I can on this turbo. I dont think anyone else is running it, but I keep meaning to ask. The kit took forever to arrive, but Kevin at AGP was great about getting back to me when I inquired about it, which is ALL I ask for. Apparently .82 turbine housings were a rare commodity at the time, and there was no way I would go smaller. When the O2 bung ended up in the wrong place he said I Could return it to get it fixed, or I could move it myself. He seems to know me well enough, something so small I'll just take care of myself. ;) There are a few other details I have to take care of, but thats the way it is with something as custom and unusual as this. For example, the turbine wheel is so big, I have to enlarge the gasket and the O2 housing flange to match it. :biggrin:

Once its in and running and I have some data, I can put up a review on it.