Crank walk!?

Well, i recently went to a mechanic when i noticed that when i push my clutch in there is a ticking noise in the front right corner of the engine, and he gave me the bad news that i have a case of crank walk. their has been no problems with anything at all besides the clicking noise so i figured the bill to fix this would hopefully be under $1,000. does any have any idea about the cost to fix crank walk if caught at an early stage??? and is it best to have a Mitsubishi dealier fix it? PLEASE HELP

your repair bill won't be under $1,000.....i had crankwalk and my bill was over $7500 for everything...that included the short block, trannie (you probably won't need a trannie), clutch, some other stuff and labor...crankwalk is no fun :( you sure that you just don't have a bad case of lifter tick? because from my knowledge, when you hear the CW tick (the trigger plate scraping against the sensor) that usually indicates that your engine is on its last leg and won't last much longer. a better way to check for CW is checking the end play.... here are instructions on how to do this
http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/crankwalk/

hopefully you don't have CW

but i thought u can hear lifter tick all the time. u can only only hear the noise when the clutch is in and gets louder as u push it in farther.

I was reading one of the CW links on that one page that 97GSTspyder posted, and it seems that they think loss in oil pressure at the oil squirters (as well as a crappy fuel pump) could be a main cause of extensive wear on the thrust bearing. I was wondering if there is any way to monitor the pressure at the squirters? I've never looked into oil pressure gauges, so I don't know where they read from. Any information about this would be great, thanks.

an oil pressure gauge can be made to read from just about anywhere. but the oil squirters are supplied be internal passages in the block and putting a oil pressure sender ther would just block them up more

So where would the BEST place to put the oil pressure sensor be? Also, would the oil pressure gauge's purpose even be worth the money? (I'm on a relatively tight budget)

hey n8s95gsx check your private messages... just wondering if you need some help, if ya do let me know! if you need to know if i do good work or not there are 2 people on here that i have fixed their cars for them!

So where would the BEST place to put the oil pressure sensor be? Also, would the oil pressure gauge's purpose even be worth the money? (I'm on a relatively tight budget)


If my opinion counts for anything, boost and oil pressure are the two most important guages you can buy. They are the only 2 I have in fact. I sold all the others. You put it in te stock location on the filter housing, takes pressure right after the pump.

Well I'd say someone who's running (or has run) 1/4 mile times at 11.84 has an opinion that counts very much =) Thanks for the info, it's just what I was looking for.

Oh yea, and what's the difference between Mechanical and Electrical gauges?

The biggest difference is price. A cheap autozone mechanical gauge is like 14 bucks, and autometer or similar electric guage is usually 45-50 bucks. The advantage to mecahincal is you dont have an oil line running into the passenger compartment of the car. You also dont have to worry about that line failing and pumping all your oil out onto the highway. If you ask me, the convience and lower risk make it worth the cost. You just have to do up a little more wiring, rather than run the plastic line into the car. If you dont have cams, solid motor mounts, and 8250 rpm redline like I do, you wont have to worryabout remote mounting the sender or anything. Just remove the stocker and screw it in there. The idiot light will remain functional. When you get the guage in I can tell you exactly where to screw in the sender.

Id definatelly get a second and third opinion unless you really trust the guy. To easy for someone to label it crankwalk to make tons of cash off you..

yea i could look at it if you want me too! i'll give ya a straight honest answer!

yea i could look at it if you want me too! i'll give ya a straight honest answer!

hey just sent ya a pm

Yeah.. i think im going to take it to a couple more mechanics just to be sure. because today 2 mechanics told me that they are 90% sure it is a throwout barring. which wouldnt be so bad

naa thats not too bad... but if its your thrust bearing, thats crankwalk!

hey just sent ya a pm

check your PM's... i replied!

yeah dude...just hope it's only your t/o bearing. those are pretty cheap. i believe they're like $30 or so. yeah just hope it's not your thrust bearing...because if it is, they would probably try replacing only the bearing (which is still a lot of work and money) and if it does have CW then replacing just the thrust bearing won't do much good. the whole short block will need replaced...i've already been through that all. my mech was only going to replace the bearing till he got it all ripped apart and noticed that there was a lot more damage. having the whole SB replaced isn't cheap at all...here i'll get you my prices that i had to pay... (this is exactly how is look on my receipts...keep in mind that i also had a new clutch and trannie installed too)


Labor---57.50/hour

Receipt 1
DISC, CLUTC 1 90.48
COVER ASSY 1 106.65
BEARING, CL 1 25.12
FLYWHEEL 1 317.35
CLIP, CLUTC 1 1.22
MANUAL TRA 1 1832.43
ADHESIVE 1 4.50
TOTAL--- 3148.62 (w/ tax & labor)

Receipt 2
CYLINDER A 1 58.95
CYLINDER 1 124.00
FLUID 1 6.75
COVER, FR F 1 16.43
TOTAL--- 402.35 (w/ tax & labor)

Receipt 3
GASKET KIT 1 229.77
ENGINE A 1 2035.71
CASE ASS 1 198.43
BELT, VALVE 1 75.97
OIL FILTER 1 5.75
BLADE, CRAN 1 44.90
SENSOR, ENG 1 64.80
BELT 1 19.38
BELT 1 15.93
BELT 1 18.16
TOTAL--- 3654.23 (w/ tax & labor)

Receipt 4
BELT 1 8.28
BELT 1 11.80
BELT 1 12.60
BELT, BALAN 1 29.02
PULLEY, CRA 1 123.67
BELT 1 86.35
SPROCKET 1 45.75
COVER 1 63.35
NUT 1 1.75
DYES 1 6.70
TOTAL--- 562.84 (w/ tax & labor)


THEN after i got my car back, my NEW oil pump blew...which ruined my turbo! it looked like someone threw a damn smoke bomb under my car...luckily they called Mitsu and they replaced my turbo at no charge.

no fun huh? :(

^^^ Man you should have bought a new car. That sucks.