95 Blazer 4.3 V6 Serious Issues

Ok heres the deal it has 112,000 miles I noticed for about a month it was taking it longer and longer to start. Well on a camping trip the check engine light came on. Well we made it to where we were heading 3 days later tried to start my truck again and it would try to start but wouldn't so I had someone jump me and it started almost right up well I got it home but on the way the check engine light stayed on and it wouldn't accelerate at all it would but really slowly and when I put the pedal on the floor the check engine light would flash. Well in the owners manual it said that it was a misfire so I go and buy spark plugs and wires and change them all out. So I tried to start it and it started right up but then the check engine light came on again and was flashing. So I checked the fire order those were alright now I don't know what else to do. I thought maybe it was the ignition coil but I don't have an ohm meter and autozone won't test it. Maybe the fuel pump but don't have a tester for that either or maybe the starter but I don't know where thats at and how to get to it. Or maybe the distributor so can someone offer me some advice. Before I trash this hunk of junk and go buy a ford.

does your oil smell like it has gas in it?

Well I'm not sure I just changed the oil and it didn't smell like gas but then again I really did smell for it.

i have another thought after thinking about it a little more.

check the ignition timing, you'll need a timing light, or someone that has one.

you engine should have a crankshaft sensor mounted in the timing cover, and while im not sure that the sensor will work on a limited basis without complete failure, i know that its operation is critical for ignition- the motor WONT run without it. i know before the original one died in my truck, it would ocassionally take a little longer to start. it could be that yours has a problem and the ignition timing is way off. maybe someone else here knows whether a partial failure of that sensor is possible.

as for the reason for the gas smell in the oil, its very possible that it could be the CPI unit is failing. these motors require high fuel pressure to operate correctly and the regulator/fuel feed lines are prone to leakage.

with a fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve at the back of the intake, turn the ignition key to the run position but dont start it. the gauge should read 58-64psi. when started and engine running at idle, the pressure should drop by 3-10psi.

i would look in those directions first.

Ok I got it started but I had to use starting fluid to get it started in runs really rough and it backfires what causes this to happen? And it doesn't accelerate at all.

Ok I got it started but I had to use starting fluid to get it started in runs really rough and it backfires what causes this to happen? And it doesn't accelerate at all.


see my last post, its most likely one of the two issues i posted.

Run fuel system cleaner, and you may need a new starter or Alternator.

And also check your distributor crack. A misfire could be stopped there.

Well got my truck back from the mechanic it was the fuel pump so 426 dollars later it runs good now.
But he also said my belt tensioner is going bad is that easy to replace or should I take it back to the rapist and have them fix it.

$426 for a $150 pump and <2 hrs labor is pretty good for the mechanic.

anytime the check engine light comes on, you HAVE to scan the motor for codes before you go replacing parts.

the 95 W motor is OBD1.5 so it actually holds quite intelligent convos with the scan tool.