95 4-cyl tranny band adjustment specs

I am sooooooooo peeved! I just posted a long one, and my connection burped and sent me to the ISP reconnect page... not recoverable! I could not get back and copy my text, grrr....

The 95 with 4cyl sat for a week awaiting tires, and now it is very slow shifting down to first gear, sometimes not at all, and it does not want to shift up until the revs are high. It does this until it warms up, then it acts normal. Since the vehicle just came into the 60,000 mile range, I figured it's a good time to flush and adjust. So, I'll be dropping the pan, replacing the filter, cleaning the magnet, and adjusting the bands. I have read that the solenoids can get gunked up, so I'd like to look at them as well. Can they be cleaned? Are there any gaskets involved?

So, I need to know the following:

What is the procedure for adjusting the bands?
What are the torque settings?
What is the torque setting for the tranny pan bolts?
Torque for solenoid bolts/nuts/pans?
Special procedures for removing/cleaning/installing solenoids?
Is there anything else worth looking at/doing while I'm in there?

Hopefully this will solve the issues. Could be a TPS or VSS, but those rarely die when a vehicle just sits for a short period.

Also, The wife lost a hubcap due to, well, her knowing not a damn thing about cars. They are silver 5-spoke with dark grey trim between the "spokes", for the 14" rims. I need one.

Thanks!
David

A simple bump since I've not had time to get to the tranny, and could still use the specs.

What did you flush the trans with?

What fluid did you use?

4 cylinder= 31TH trans. Band adjustment will not help. A service/pan drop/flush will not help.

This is how it works...Metal has intruded upon the governor valve...

There is a steel valve(lets say the size of a pencil eraser) that has to slide very freely within an aluminum bore. When the car is cold the aluminum is contracted(shrunk) so it holds onto the steal valve(as steal doesn't contract as small as aluminum) So when cold the car won't shift correctly. Ok, now, when warmed up the aluminum bore has expanded at twice the rate as the steal valve. Now the valve moves freely within the bore. This is a very precision bore. The foreign particles within the bore will "most likely" not leave with a service. I say "most likely" because anything can happen. The sky can fall, the sun can burn out, whatever...

Upon pan drop you will not see much in the pan or even on the magnet. You may see more once you cut open the filter. The metal comes from the differential side bearings(rivers of shinny stuff running through ATF) and the rear planet thrust washer and planetary pinions. For the most part.

Do you know if the valves can be flushed? I've heard of some having solenoids mounted externally or under an external plate that could be removed to access and clean. Is this a possibility? I am not afraid of the job, just not familiar with GM transmissions.

I am not afraid of the job, just not familiar with GM transmissions.

GM? This is a Caravan right? Just want to make sure...

GM? This is a Caravan right? Just want to make sure...

GM, Dodge, Chrysler, whatever make it is, they are all the same to me. It's says "Caravan" on the vehicle ;)

I've noticed that when it is trying to take off in second, if I shift to first gear, it immediately goes into first, so I am thinking the "valve" or whatever mechanism is not the fault, but maybe the input from the VSS or TB sensor is not right. Any way to pull the codes on these vehicles with a paperclip or something like the Fords? Is the 95 Caravan OBD one or two?

This transmission is hydralically controlled. No electronics, except TCC. I'm not sure about code retrieval w/o a scan tool on these. Maybe its same as early models....Cycle key withing 5 seconds three times. Codes should flash at Check engine light