Car Sputtering in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th

OK, when i step on it and once the car starts to boost @ 3500 all the way to redline it sputters and backfires. It will only boost to like 8-10 psi ( i think thats about .7 BAR)

96 GST, HKS BOV, Greddy 18G setup, 3" Cat-Back Exaust, 255 Fuel Pump, Apexi FMIC.

550 injectors on the way aswell as DSMLink. Also coming 3" Downpipe.

Battery is almost dead, could this be it, or stock injectors, maybe plugs & wires?

Thanks

plugs

well, just put in new battery and new spark plugs but no wires, no one had them. but it is doing it much worse than before. it has even started it to do it in 1st gear, and now it wont boost bast .6 bar and it starts to sputter/backfire as soon as the turbo starts to spool.

I did take it to somewhere to get an oil leak diagnosed and they said that it was the oil cooler. could this have anything to do with it?

check all your upper and lower intercooler connections for a leak somewhere.

ok, will do, i did notice that when i was putting in the new plugs that one of the wires wouldnt really go onto the plug that well... was thinking that this could be the problem.

OK, while i was replacing the wires i had to unscrew some of the bolts by them because the old wires were Nology wires and had grounds to each wire. So when i was screwing these back in, i heard a loud "Pop" noise, im guessing that I messed up some kind of a gasket. But now it sounds like its running on 3 cylinders and is idleing really really bad. PLEASE HELP ME. what did i break, or what did i do wrong?

When you put in the new plugs, what kind were they and what did you gap them to?

The loud pop was most likely the valve cover cracking. Torque on those bolts is in the inch-pound range. I think it works out to 2-3 foot-pounds. Very common thing for people to do, crack that valve cover. But that wouldnt cause the symptoms you describe.

Toss those wires and pick up some stock wires or NGKs. Everything else is too risky in my opinion. Pull those plugs and throw them out if they arent NGK BPR6ES (stock). If they are, gap them to .028 to .030 inches. Reinstall with the wires I mention above. If this doesnt fix the problem go to www.vfaq.com, intake section, and build the leak tester shown there and fix any you find.

If all of that still doesnt fix the problem, we can get into some more serious troubleshooting.

got some new stock wires and the plugs that i put in are Bosch +4 Platinum and they say that they are already gapped to stock still same problem. building leak tester, will see if i can find anything.

Bosch +4 Platinum

That just could be your problem :uhoh:

Yes. Pitch those plugs in the barrel, where the belong :) And I've never seen a plug come gapped right for our cars. They usually asume its the same gap as the NT cars, and that couldnt be further from the truth.

You can't gap the x4, at least that is what i was told. Unless there is a special gapper for that.

he's right i cant gap them. and after a little investigation i realized that my friend did the wires wrong like a moron. he had it 1234 t0 1234 instead of 1234 to 4132.
thanks fo all you help, looks like it was just a user error. gotta love it.

Hey, it happens :) I would still toss those plugs though.

yea im going to they are still doing it a little when i really step on it. any recommendations for what kind to get?

NGK's are popular.

BPR7ES

i just got some new iridium plugs, NGK's, supposedly better than the BPR7ES. time will tell.

I believe the Iridium plugs are Densos. If NGK now makes them as well, let me know. And let me know how they work out! I go through a set of plugs in a few thousand miles, so something that lasts longer but will still fire under 30 pounds of boost would be nice.

yea, those Bosch things are POS, i still cant boost over .8 bar even with them. going out tomorrow to get something nicer. Looking for either of the ones you described. Thanks alot guys.