tranny problems

I'm posting this here to hopefully get more info.

I have a 94 Merc Sable 3.0 w/ AXOD trans.

My problem is when the car is in OD and you come to a stop, you have to wait about 10 sec. for a big bump before you can go again. The car won't move at all and you can rev the engine all the way up but no go. This doesn't happen in standard drive. This is a very annoying bump.

This might be related, if you start the car and want to go forward. You have to put the car in reverse, wait for a bump, and then shift it into drive/OD. This is also annoying.

I've been turning a wrench since I was five, mechanically adept, and not afraid to take on a challenge.

BTW: this is my wifes car. I don't like her barge on wheels but it was free. I changed the ATF and found some metallic sludge on the magnet.

Any suggestions including dynamite will be accepted

Sounds like it is time to rebuild the trans..........I have seen them go with as little as 50,000 on them.

I'm looking into that.

How difficult is it to rebuild the tranny, a time frame would be excellent too.

I can p/u a rebuilt one for $800, any pros/cons/horror stories?

I answered this, over in the Mercury section. But I don't know how to drag the post over here.

BTW; that manual I was referring to was published by Haynes, not Chilton's. My bad.

I just finished an AT Class. Your problem is probably in the valve body. And you may be able to idetify it with a pressure test. If you rebuild it. I would plan at least $300 for parts. How good are you with a wrench. There is a lot to get into there. I suspect if I were faced with that I would go for the rebuilt one. And do the torque converter at the same time. Not cheap but better than a new car.

Russell

I'm looking into that.

How difficult is it to rebuild the tranny, a time frame would be excellent too.

I can p/u a rebuilt one for $800, any pros/cons/horror stories?

sounds like the valve body is sticking, if you want a real challenge rebuild it (you would be nuts, you would have to tear it down clean and check all the parts replace worn bands ,clutches ,o-rings gaskets, reassemble, and if you fuck up you will not know intill you get it back in then guess what, dynamite of do it all over agian) get the rebuild from a decent shop with some kind of warrenty and new torq converter and blow out the cooler lines.

I think i'm going for option 2.

I bought the Haynes manual, saw all the bands, clutches, valves, springs, rods, bolts, you name it.
No, I love working on cars, but no.

thanks to all who helped.

I think you choose wisely.

Russell
I think i'm going for option 2.

I bought the Haynes manual, saw all the bands, clutches, valves, springs, rods, bolts, you name it.
No, I love working on cars, but no.

thanks to all who helped.