A few speaker / amp problems.

okay i have a few problems, i am sitting here with an amp and sub, i need to get an amp wiring kit, but from what ive read i need to connect it to the + battery cable, so what im wondering is, do i have to put it through my firewall or can i connect it to the + battery wire thats connected to my headunit.

my second dilema is my rear shelf speakers, they are 4x6's but the spot i put them into is made for a 6x9, since there were never speakers there before i just installed them into the shelf as they were, but the holes in the frame under the shelf are obviously bigger, im not sure if this is the cause of the problem or not but when i turn my stereo up all the way and open my trunk, just as much noise can be heard standing near my open trunk as sitting in my car. what can i do to kind of push that noise up or keep it from going to the trunk.

thanks for any help you guys can provide. its much appreciated

connect the positive power cable to the battery.

If you are good with wood working tools make your self a oval to fit the 6x9 slot then cut out the center for your 4x6

say if i just get that dynamat stuff and just wrap it around the bottom of the speaker, covering both the bigger hole in the frame and the making it so the bottom of the speaker isnt even visible from the trunk?

see the speakers are fit snugle into the back shelf, underneath is that carpet and fiberboard type material, so it is fit right... cutting out a wooden oval i dont think would help too much, i will see what i can do though

also... any idea on how i can get it to connect to the + battery cable, the + cable is nicely wrapped and such, i wouldnt know how to attach it and i wouldnt want to strip anything like that.

or further, what about if i just put the speakers in a box kind of, like have the screws from the speaker go down out of the shelf and attack the speaker to a sealed box, much like with a sub. would that push the sound up more?

you don't "push" up more sound. what is happening is that when the cones move from the rear part of the speaker, the air/waves of sound are interferring with the air/waves of sound being produced from the front of the speaker. if you put the 4x6 in a sealed box (w/ the correct amount of airspace for them) you will get the loudest, clearest sound out of them. if you don't want a box, you have to make sure that the back of the speaker and front of the speaker are separated completely from each other in means of airflow
as for the +terminal on the battery. you're going to have to remove the terminal and fit a ring terminal between the terminal and the battery. make sure you use at least 8 gauge wire

okay, you were rather helpful perna. thanks.
just a last question:
what type of material should i make the box out of? and can anyone suggest the correct amount of airspace for a pair of 4x6's that would be boxed seperately, max 360 watts i believe. also, the amount of airspace would just be the amount of area within the box? or is their some type of pressure deal i would have to deal with?

bah, i happen to have another question about my amp. at www.carstereo.com i read:
Power Wiring
Even though amplifiers are easy to install, a lot of things could go wrong. The most important thing to consider is where to get the power from: Straight from the battery. ALWAYS put a fuse as close to the positive battery terminal as possible. If the wire going to the back of the car shorts out, then the fuse will blow. If you don't install a fuse or breaker and the wire shorts out, then the wire will carry so much current that the insulation will melt and could catch your car on fire. The size of the fuse should be the same rating as the fuses used by the amp(s) or less. The ground (-) should be hooked-up to a metal part of the car. It is not necessary to run a ground wire all the way to the battery.

now what do i do about installing this fuse? i know my amp itself has a fuse sticking out the side, its green and says 30 on it. is this the fuse they are talking about? also if there is a short, will all that they said happen happen? i mean, i dont want a wire running from my engine to trunk to melt its insulation and catch everything on fire... help?

the fuse they are talking about is a safety measure. usually about 6-12 inches from the battery termainal they splice in a fuse holder into your power wire with a fuse so that if it shorts out somehow (example: screwing back in your trim pieces through the wire, wires coming loose hitting the trunk) it will just blow the fuse instead of heating up and melting your wire till it ignites your carpet and kills your battery. this fuse and holder is usually already included in most amp wiring kits. however, the fuse in not a neccessity but a precaution. mine, as well as all the systems i've hooked up don't have one and have never had any problems. it actually allows more current to reach your amp faster, just make sure your wire is a high enough gauge for your amp.
as for the 4x6 boxes, 6x6x8 will be fine. since they aren't high powered subs the airspace don't have to be perfect. you'll be amazed by the difference the boxes make. i'd recommend 1/2'' or larger particle board, press board, or plywood. (in that order)

you should not put boxes on your 4x6's, because all that is going to do is give better bass response from the 4x6's, which you should put a high pass filter on, because generaly it will give you a better high end from your 4x6's, if you have a sub you dont need the bass from the 4x6's. try to find a factory grommet to put your + battery cable through. the facory gromet will look like a large rubber thing in your firewall. just use a hobby knife to make a cut and shove the wire through.

hey drumer, what frequency you think he should cross it over at? 1000? ha! no matter what, he will get a better responce from all frequencies if he has them in boxes. not only will it add more midrange (200-700htz, deeper voices, low guitar) but it will also prevent the cone from fluttering even from deep mids since it's in a box and prevent distortion to other mids and highs. i do agree with the fact they should be crossed over, but they WILL sound alot better in boxes.

true, he will get better midrange response, but if you stick a box under the 4x6's you will probibly cover most of the 6x9 cutout. if he is running a subwoofer, covering those cutouts will drop the amplitude of the wave that gets trough to the drivers seat. unless he has got an open trunk. by the way you cant even set a cross over to 1000. moron.

When you buy the amp wiring kit it has the fuse already cut in and most quality kits come with the crimp rings. And some even have a nice little drawing to show you how to hook it up. And why not exchange those 4x6's for 6x9's. If you can. Good luck

wow drumer, you're not the brightest are you. the whole 1000 htz crossover was a cut against you but i guess it's over your head. maybe you should learn a few things for yourself before attempting to help others. hope the best of luck to you dann, any questions pm me. i'll leave "drumer the expert of his own world" to this thread. peace

yea i got your cut. but the gains he would get by puting em in boxes arnt enough to make his system sound signifiganly better. most speakers put out alot of midrange with crossovers and a box those midranges would be even louder. im most cases the midrange freqencies out-balance the high and lows, making the midranges louder will only further out-balance the highs and lows. just an example that proves my point, turn on your car sterio and turn the bass and treble all the way down now turn the volume up a little. does that sound good to you? it sure dosent to me. just my personal preferance, i dont think that alot of midrange sounds good.