89 supar upgrades

I just got a 89 supra and was wondering if anyone had any input on what i should do to it.

Add a 2JZ-Gte engine into it.

LMAO, yea I can see that as a viable option. Spend atleast 7 grand swapping that into it, assuming you know how to, or do a quick search and find hundreds of mods to do on the 7m.

And since 2jz is _such_ a common swap in them :uhoh:

Stick with the 7m and don't try to swap in a 1jz or 2jz..and the 1jz is a lot easier anyway.

First I would have it checked out and make sure nothing needs to be replaced right away. These buggers aren't cheap. When I found out my clutch was going to be $1400 bucks to replace, I got rid of it. It is a lot cheaper if you can DIY but I don't have a place to work on it so thats why it would have been so expensive.

Second, is it a turbo or na? This is very important for the mods. I don't know too much aboout the NAs other than they have nice gear in the rear (4.11 compared to Turbo's 3.73) which can make them fun if you swap in a 7mgte.

If it a turbo, I would put in an apexi intake, and upgrade the exhaust to 3" mandrel bent. Next would be to make sure there is a Metal Headgasket instead of the cheap shitty stock toyota one that blows ever 5 days. Also when you change the headgasket, get some APR bolts or studs and have it torqued down correctly. After that, I would get a booster control and up the boost to more than 7.5psi..because well a stock ct26 in the supras are reliable to around 15psi I believe, which is also the fuel cut off. After that I would replace the injectors with 550cc and fuel rails and every other fuel delievery part. Then I would get a nice 60-1 performance turbo rebuild and run about 20psi of boost. Most stock bottom ends in the 7m I believe can handle around 500hp. And you'll most defintally need a nice clutch able to handle the hp as you upgrade.

Now if you have an NA you can't do most of that, and you wouldn't want that big of exhaust. And if it is an auto, swap it it a 5spd. The autos in the turbo models only handle up to 350hp.

Just a few small corrections in there, the n/a MKIII has a 4.3 rear gear (sport package got LSD), the JZA70 has a 4.10 TORSEN rear gear. Only 89+ Turbo's got the 3.73 gear, 87-88 Turbo's got the 3.909. Also there is nothing wrong with the stock HG design, the problem was the under torqued headbolts that allowed the gasket to float, expand, and degrade. :)

hmm are you sure about the gearing? i coulda sworn my 87t had 3.73...I wasn't sure about the gear in the NA but I knew it was close to 4.10 lol and thats what I most common see now with Jeeps soo yeah thanks for the corrections.

I've heard many people blowing stock headgaskets after torquing down the HG to the correct specs. The best bet is shall out the $150 bucks for the metal one now and don't worry. If you blow the metal headgasket, you are boosting way too high. :) Although both ways have been agrued so many times that who knows who is right anymore. I wouldn't think TRD would be selling a MHG is they didn't think there was something wrong with the stock one. Just if I ever get another MK3, I'll use a MHG just for the fact that I know I would be safe.

Well, of coarse a MHG is better than a composite HG anyday, it can hold higher HP and just take more overall abuse, but the surfaces have to be prepped right or it will fail just as easy. If you don't plan on high HP, a composite is fine and will last 200K easy with the 72ftlb stock bolt torque and good care, and being $50 new from toyota doesn't hurt either. If I was rebuilding another one though, no doubt I'd spend the extra $150 for ARP's and a MHG, it's just not for everyone's needs/goals. :)