egr

how do you take apart the egr valve

Take it apart or take it off?

As for taking it off it's just a couple of bolts with a gasket under it.

I tried cleaning mine out from the bottom the best I could and replaced it when it still stuck open. I don't recall seeing any way it could come apart- it looked pretty well crimped/molded/otherwise fastened into one piece. A good pic of one is here: http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=EGR1092&PartType=282&PTSet=A

I don't think it looks like it'd come apart.

yeah I just replaced it, I couldn't believe the world of difference that did to my car. yeah when I took it off I was goign to clean it out but the gasket was kinda broken and I didnt want to track down just a gasket so i just bought a new one for 100 bucks, but tracking a egr valve was a pain I had to go 45 min out of my way to go get it.

where did you get one for a $100 new?

autozone

Here is some good info on the egr and the link it came from. It's rare that they need to be replaced, usualy a good cleaning will do the job. I learned that the hard way. I paid the local mechanic $135 to do the job. When it happened again a few months later I did it myself after doing some research.

http://caddyinfo.netgetgoing.com/howto/egrvalvecleaning.htm

Two things can happen with the electronic EGR valve: 1. Deposits can build up and hold the pintle off the set. 2. The shaft can build up deposits that cause it to stick in the base of the EGR valve (between the EGR passage and the coil above) when the shaft gets hot and the valve is opened.



The deposits part is pretty easy. Just go in there with a small round wire brush and clean the passages and the walls of the passage.

The shaft can be cleaned with the carb spray...just hold the valve right side up so that solvent doesn't run down the shaft into the coil. The solvent will not hurt the "valve" part of the valve, just the coil windings in the can above.

Just get the big deposits out. The exhaust will cover the passages with soot soon anyway, so you aren't looking for squeeky clean...just get the major loose deposits out. If you hold the valve pintle open and bend a little "hook" on the rifle cleaning brush you can swish it around the seat from below. Getting the shaft clean is the most important thing I think unless you see some really big chunks of carbon in the passages.

Sometimes, if the valve hangs open on a piece of carbon, it really isn't from the valve itself, but came from the exhaust manifolds. I have even seen tiny bits of welding flash (or "grapes" from the sheet metal or tubular fabricated exhaust manifolds) caught in the valve. In that case all that is required is to remove the offending piece of debris.

wow, what great info. Im going to tear mine off tonight! Thanks!!!! :evillol:

When I had mine done the mechanic took this 3 foot long brush and gave the passages on either side a good ol' chimney sweep as well...

well i took the egr off the cleaned it with carb spray and wire brushes. it was working ok but very dirt. I used almost an entire can of carb spray on it. I put back on the egr with a new $2 gasket and i did notice a little smoother idling engine.