97 4Runner Wheels Seem to lock when cold

I have a '97 rRunner Limited with automatic transmission and V6 engine. Lately it has been acting as if the wheels are "locked" (i.e. the brakes are set, or some mechanical locking mechanism prevents them from turning) when I first start to drive. This seems to happen only in when going forward, I don't notice it in reverse. As I step on the accelerator the car doesn't move, then there is a clunk, and the car jumps forward. If I step very gently on the brakes it slows down, then suddenly jerks to a stop. After I've driven about a mile this behavior goes away and everything seems fine. Initially, this only seemed to occur on very cold mornings, but yesterday it happened in the afternoon after the car sat for a few hours when it was about 60 degrees.

I'm guessing this is in the drive train as opposed to the brakes, but I don't know where to begin looking. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Do you have it in 4WD all the time? If so, this is your problem. Your truck is not meant to be kept in 4WD. Put it in 2WD and leave it there unless traction requires 4WD.

Have you greased the drive shaft? If not, try putting moly grease in all the drive shaft grease fittings.

I only use 4WD when I truly need it. This seemed to begin after I put it in 4WD, then took it out. Is it possible that the light indicates 4WD is turned off, but it's actually still on?

I'm about to get the oil changed, so I'll ask them to be sure to grease the driveshaft.

Thanks.

Change the differential lube also, front and rear. Also, change the transfer case oil. Something there might be contaminated and sticking.

Check the rotors anyway. If they show any sign of blueing (I don't even know if that's a real word), or if there is any sign of heat damage. The calipers may be sticking. It's unlikey, but at least you can rule it out.
Also, I use to have automatic locking hubs on mine, I took them off and installed some Warn manual hubs, much better. The factory ones were trying to engage when it was cold and it did make clunking noises.

I hope that helps.

How much did the Warn hubs cost you?

The Warn hubs cost approximately $130.

Another thing, manual hubs almost always work.

Automatic hubs have been know to "not work" when you need them the most.

Another thing, if you're too lazy to get out and lock your hubs you shouldn't be off-roading.

Did you have ADD? If so, how did you deactivate this and keep the front propellor shaft engaged?

No I didn't have Attention Deficit Disorder!

I let my 4X4 mechanic do the work. I didn't feel like figuring that one out.

Before, when I engaged 4 wheel drive, the hub's clutches went to work.
The front drive shaft only engages when in 4 wheel drive. So in other words, nothing in the front has power to it unless I have shifted into 4 wheel drive.
Another cool thing is, when I drive out for a weekend off-road, I maintain the manual hubs disengaged; when I get there, I lock the hubs and they stay locked the whole weekend whether or not the transfer case is engaged or not. When it's time to come home I disengage the hubs. You can drive around with the hubs locked and not be in 4 wheel drive, that just means they're ready to go as soon as you shift the transfer case into four by.

ForrestGreen,... I have exactly the same problem you did... could you please tell me how did you do solving the problem? The first time I took it to the dealer they replaced the ATF and it helped for 1 week and then the problem came back..now I am taking it back to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.

pac02,

I took it in and had the oil changed in all the gerarboxes (front and rear differentials and transfer case) but not the transmission. I don't know for sure if I've solved the problem or not, but it hasn't occurred again since I did this last Spring. Unfortunately, it always seemed to be associated with cold weather, so I'm sure I'll find out very soon whether that fixed it or not. I'll update this after a few very cold nights when I find out.

Forrest

If you see the same problem, lube the rear brake mechanism with high temperature grease. Your rear brakes may not be retracting. They are different going forward than backward also.

A few points of interest...We have a 96 with 2 wheel drive and live in Fla, so no chilly weather. We have the same problem described above, and it started on a trip across country...ironically enough in Colorado. So our 4Runner caught this "flu" in cold weather and has imported it to Fla.

Our mechanic said it was transmission "issues", and we ripped into it inspecting and replacing any components that appeared suspect (read diagnostic surgery). This seemed to help for the required week and the symptoms returned.

From my experience, I thought brakes. Either the calipers or shoes were not releasing off rotors and/or drums. After more bangs and over time I determined it was localized on the rear end. So my plan of attack is to replace drums, shoes, springs, etc to remedy this headache once and for all (I hope) Any ideas would be appreciated, and if it works I will get back with more info.

ST

Thanks everyone for all the help... Forrest thanks for answering my call for help....

...I had the car under further observation over the weekend and noticed that the trans seems to be shifting ok... the "hard kicking" release noise did not happen this time..typical behavior now is that the car moves softly in drive but if I apply the brakes then the car locks in a "soft lock" (releases with slight pressure on the accelerator)... Given the above it seems that the problem is a mild malfunction in the rear brakes... I also recall that the whole problem started right after a very hard break on the highway to avoid a collision... Thanks again for sharing your experience(s).... I will report on further observations and posible trips to the dealer until the problem is fully resolved.... by the way I am very happy with the overall reliability of the car ..by now it is approaching 100K.. it is a '98/4WD.

SAME PROBLEM HERE... soundz exactly like my issue..rear wheelz lock in drive, or even "power brake" if i'm on ice..but it'z just fine in reverse. Checked the brakes on a car lift and everything seemed to be fine but i DID find this on another forum:

If no oil on the driver side, you have a locked up parking brake pivot. Follow the park brake cable to the inside plate of the rear wheels. on the outside, where the cable connects, look to see the position of the visible mechanism connected to the cable. It probably will not match the side that is not locked up. This is a very common problem; you need to replace the park brake pivot. Additionally, you are going to need to remove the other side axle shaft and get the leaking oil seal replaced. Replace the brake shoes if they have oil on them.
i havn't tried it yet, but it seemz like the most logical answer.. hope this helpz!!

Did you have ADD? If so, how did you deactivate this and keep the front propellor shaft engaged?

Didn't Toyota discontinue ADD after the 95.5 model change?

No, some if not all 3rd gen 4WD have ADD.