302 upgrades...

My pops gave me his old 73 Mach 1 Fastback (with the cool sportsroof) but out of respect for him I don't want to change the 302 it came with. Does anyone know the HP the stock 302 has for a 73 Mach 1?... and can anyone give me ideas on what I can add to it to increase the HP, aside from adding a supercharger?

210. If you'd take it to a dyno right now you'll likely see a lower #. when you say change you mean you dont want to swap in another motor, right?

210. If you'd take it to a dyno right now you'll likely see a lower #. when you say change you mean you dont want to swap in another motor, right?

So 210 is the HP right?... oh and what's a dyno?... and yeah I mean I've been told to swap to a 351 but i don't want to... and thanx for the info.

The dnyo is what you use to find out what horse power have. you can have a chasis dyno or at the crank.

Yea, its rated at 210 hp, if it was tested with a dyno it'd be a little lower. I think in 72 they went from messuring the power from gross to net. Net is what you have after all is said and done going to the wheels.

:smokin:

Yea, its rated at 210 hp, if it was tested with a dyno it'd be a little lower. I think in 72 they went from messuring the power from gross to net. Net is what you have after all is said and done going to the wheels. Actually the 73 Mach 1 came standard with a 302 2-bbl, that was rated 140 bhp at 4000 rpms.

There were other motor options for 73, such as the 351 2-bbl, rated 177 bhp at 3800 rpms, or the 351 4-bbl, rated 248 bhp at 5400 rpms.

Actually the 73 Mach 1 came standard with a 302 2-bbl, that was rated 140 bhp at 4000 rpms.

There were other motor options for 73, such as the 351 2-bbl, rated 177 bhp at 3800 rpms, or the 351 4-bbl, rated 248 bhp at 5400 rpms.
you're right. not sure where that came from now, must have been thinking about another year. I decided to look it up to be sure, according to this site, http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/ford-mustang/ford-mustang-history-1.shtml , those #s you have are for 72, in 73 there were less engine choices
250 I6 95 bhp.
302 V8 136 bhp.
351 V8 154 bhp.
351 V8 156 bhp

lol, I was way off, sorry man

Any ideas on how i can upgrade the engine then without having to swap to a 351?

you're right. not sure where that came from now, must have been thinking about another year. I decided to look it up to be sure, according to this site, http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/ford-mustang/ford-mustang-history-1.shtml , those #s you have are for 72, in 73 there were less engine choices
250 I6 95 bhp.
302 V8 136 bhp.
351 V8 154 bhp.
351 V8 156 bhp

lol, I was way off, sorry man Well you are right about 73 having less engine choices, but those are the correct engines I listed.

72 had these for choices.
L-250 cid 1-bbl 6cyl 145hp
F-302 cid 2-bbl 8cyl 210hp
H-351 cid 2-bbl 8cyl 240hp
M-351 cid 4-bbl 8cyl (though may 1971) 285hp
M-351 cid 4-bbl 8cyl (Cobra Jet after may 1971) 280hp
R-351 cid 4-bbl 8cyl (Boss) 330hp
C-429 cid 4-bbl 8cyl (Cobra Jet) 370hp
J 429 cid 4-bbl 8cyl (Super Cobra Jet) 375hp

Now I think Muscle Car Club is a nice place, but I find from time to time that some of the info there isn't totally correct according to the books I have on specifics details.

Ok, thats highly possible. I have some good books too but they are at home so I couldnt look it up in them.

Whats your budget? 302's have good potential. port and polish, valve job, better heads all together, new intake, 4bbl carb, headers, better exhaust, upgrade the ignition.

i have a budget of about a thousand... any ideas?

$1000 is kinda a tight budget, lets see cheap or free upgrades hmmmm.... If the engine is in good shape, consider switching to synthetic oil, it cost a little more but you'll pic up a few hp (not much mind you). Down side is that if you have a leak, synthetic will make it worse. They say to never break in an engine with synthetic.
My sure its well tuned and timing is right.

I'm not sure what carb you have and therefore no idea what it flows, but you can step up to a 2bbl carb that flows more. Are you could get a new 4bbl intake and a small 4bbl carb (I say small because if your heads arent upgraded) . A more agressive cam but this is a bigger job.
I would start out with a set of headers. duel exhaust
heads can be expensive, but you may be able to do something with the valve train. You can take your stock ones off and port and polish them yourself (or if you dont feel comfortable get a machine shop to do it).

If it were me, I'd do the exhaust, port the heads (or you might be able to hunt down a cheap set somewhere), and step up the carb. It should be a good improvement.

Cam/Carb/Intake/Exhaust/Windage tray, and port and polish the heads yourself. If you do your research and match your parts well, you can gain a lot of HP.

How do you do the port n polish yourself, what tools do you use?


:smokin:

You need a 1/4" die grinder with a good deburing bit, some different shaped grinding stones and small flapper sanding wheels. They also offer an attatchment that I don't know the proper name of, but it is multi layers of abrasive and you keep peeling it down as it dulls.

The trick is if you hit the wrong spot near the valve seats you can ruin a head. You have to remove the valves first. The intake runners are good enough for street use. The exaust are very poor. Take a header gasket and bolt it to the head. Paint around the inside of the port so it shows how far is to far to go. On your heads there is probably a cast hump where air injection would have been if you had an air pump. You can completely remove that and shape that corner like the gasket. The other thing to try and do is make the floor flat as you can and remove some of the arc so it's a straighter shot to the valve. When that is done take the stones and blend all the sharp edges inside the runner and valve pocket. The smoother the better. I put a few layers of masking tape around the edge of the valve seat to protect them from harm. After that shine it all up on the exhaust side with the flapper wheels. Clean it good and take the heads to have the valves done. If you have rail guided rockers I would think about installing guide plates and the early style rockers. I lost one engine because of those rockers, won't ever build another with them in it. Might want to ask the machine shop what it would cost you to go up to 1.94/1.50 valves also. Stock are 1.74/1.45 I believe.

Hope this helps.

The multi layer bits you mentioned are called sandpaper rolls. Its just sandpaper thats been rolled up and glued together to make a tight cylinder. The layers wear away as you go. You can get a kit which consists of a bunch of different grit and size sandpaper rolls, and also some flap wheels from a company by the name of Standard Abrasives. Summit sells it... They also sell their own generic kit, which doesnt include the flap wheels, but its much cheaper(i think the SA kit is 40 bucks and the summit is 20). I got the summit one and bought the flap wheels for my dremel.