Gauge cluster problems..

1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.
:banghead:

No one has any clues??

My 99 does this.
I have found out that I can get mine going again by pulling the 10AMP IOD fuse (from the fuse box under the hood) and putting it back in.
I have no idea what it does, or why it works, but it does with mine.
Scott

tried that. Doesn't work. Thanks for the tip though.

does this cluster have a tach? If so does everything go dead but the tach, trip, & gear selector?

yes it has a tach, but the entire gauge cluster goes dead. No fuel, no tach, no temp, no odometer, no gears and no speedo.

The check engine light goes on and the abs light. Code 66 (no signal from bcm if I remember right).

My 2000 grand caravan SE with 34k miles do the same thing, please keep posting I haVe tried all the previous tips with no help .

I am having the same problem with my 98 Caravan, but it has also began to start, run for about a second and die. Now it wont start at all. Have replaced Ignition switch and no improvement. Been to 3 different Dodge dealers and no one has a clue as to what is wrong, so any information given will be appreciated and anything learned on my end shall be passed along

Iam having same problem with a 1998 Gran Caravan no guages. Checked 10 amp fuse--same just got done changing the BCM no difference still no guages. Help!!!!!

Same problem here (among others) :-(


1996 3.3L Grand caravan.

Code 66 and 43 in computer. Intermittant gauges. Been going on about a month. Car runs fine when they go out. Reading other posts I figured it must be the cluster or the BCM. I understand the cluster is easier to replace (30 minutes or so) but the code 66 seems to point to more of a BCM issue.

Today it stalled on the highway with a code 11. 15 minutes later it started right up. I just had the crank sensor replaced 3 weeks ago. Another mystery. to solve.......Any Ideas?

I think there was a post on here about a month ago about the same problem and that person had to take the cluster apart and solder some thing on a little PC board. I think he said that he found a cold solder joint that came lose....??

Just got the word from my mechanic on the problem with my Caravan. Seems as though the Engine Control Module was not getting a good ground and burnt up. He also referred to it as the power control module, so it may go by different names. Anyway, we should have one here by Tuesday to plug in and see if this fixes the problem. All of the gauges are fed information and power from this peice and the dash is also controlled by it I am told. If this works we may be on to something. Keep your fingers crossed

Buddabelly, I've been fighting this for a little over a year, intermittent as could be, maybe ten times in the last year, same problem, when i dont have dash gauges the engine starts and dies, after a short time it wont even crank, come back in a while and all is better.
How did the PCM do ?, did it fix your problem?,
I have this problem posted on two other tech help forums and posted to Chryslers customer assistance site, if i find anything out i'll keep everyone posted
WHAT IN THE HECK IS THE FIX FOR THIS!!??
On the other hand it is very interesting to see how many people are having this problem! sounds like a design flaw,
If you are interested I can tell you what i have done to try to pinpoint the problem (currently driving with a scan tool connected)
Thanks in advance,
Bob White

We still dont know if the ECM will fix this problem as we are still looking for one. Think we may have one located but wont know for sure till they call me back. Seems as though this is quite a prevalent problem for Dodge. Makes you wonder why they seem to know so little about it. Anyway, I will keep everyone as up to date as I can on this. Again, keep your fingers crossed, this just might work

Things are looking better. Found an Engine Control Module Thursday, and it will be here Tuesday. We should know by Tuesday evening if this is the fix for this problem. After much discussion on the subject, the mechanic and I have pretty well come to the same conclusion. The dash gauges are more than likely fed info from the ECM, while the BCM controls other aspects of the vehicle, i.e. door locks, power windows, and other such controls. The no start problem was definitly the ECM and self diagnostics confirmed this. Will know more Tuesday evening and pass along news then

My 2000 grand caravan SE with 34k miles do the same thing, please keep posting I haVe tried all the previous tips with no help .
Here is what I been doing in order to get rid of this problem , replaced the BCM module, replaced the gauge cluster, and at this time it seems to be less frecuently or at les it recovers faster when the gauges goes out, by the way When i put it in reverse it does not change gear indication all other shifts displayed ok, Oh I forget also take it to a alarm shop to remove the custom alarm, If some body have info about the Gauges cluster PCB electronic print board conections who seem desoldered I seen cuople of them and for me it seems that where they make it they leave it desoldered on pourpose or for some reason. Would like some dodge engineer and or designer give us a clue on this, I mean it seems that dealers can not "deal" With this kind of problems, Or at least in a proper way $$ & time. One thing for sure my next car will not be a dodge vehicle.........

We have replaced the ECM and we still have no gauges. We are in the process of trying to check the BCM but can not get any voltage readings from the comm connection of the BCM. Next step is trying to read the resistance on all of the wires coming and going from it. This could take quite a while but will try to keep everyone up to date. We are determined to find this problem and fix it or I am going to roast that goat on the hood!!!

Another tidbit of information relating to this thread which may be helpful......

I will rehash the symptoms I have been experiencing first.

1) Instrument cluster gauges drop out occasionally but van was running fine when this happened. Not all of the gauges at the same time would go out but they each would drop out from time to time.

2) Van broke down on my wife about 3 weeks after Cluster symptoms. I was able to get it to the mechanic with it limping (and bucking) the entire way. Had codes 43 and 66.

3) Crank sensor replacement and van ran fine. Still had Cluster problems though.

4) A week later the van stalled on the highway and would not start. Car started 15 minutes later and ran fine. Again - codes 43 and 66.

5) Mechanic - to his credit - tried a CAM sensor, PCM and ECM. He drove it for the next two weeks and problems continued.

6) Mechanic decided to get a genuine Chrysler/Dodge Crank sensor and try that. He evidently used an aftermarket crank sensor in his original repair that he has used many times in other vehicles with success. Since then I have not seen the cluster go down or the codes return (crossing my fingers...). I have had the van now for two weeks. It does not seem like a crank sensor could cause a speedometer/tachometer to drop out but this has been such a bitch I am willing to believe anything at this point as long as it is working.

I hope this post is helpful to someone. It is interesting that so many people have had so much frustration over similar issues. Good luck.

An amendment to my last post....

We were seeing code 11 in addition to 43 and 66 when the van would break down.

Good Luck

I have a 93 honda civic with the same problem, the lights work and then they dont, if you bang on the dash for a while it will work, im wondering if its in the switch or in the dash? any one know?

Buddabell, any new developments? This is the same thing that is happening with my '98. Hard to gauge how fast, fuel left, etc. It is happening more frequently and for longer periods now.

Hello-

Intermittently, the gauges will die or it will only start momentarily and then die. Sometimes, it seemed to fix itself after a tow job. After several tow jobs, my wife refused to drive it. Spent a fortune on this with the dealer. Nothing showed up on the computer, they checked this and that, replaced the BCM, replaced the fuses and the relays, unhooked the battery, etc, etc and the problem kept coming back. It even acted up at the dealership and they could not figure it out. Basically, they said they would just keep replacing parts until the problem went away. I probably spent a couple of thousand with no success before I gave up. At this point, I am convinced the no start and the dead gauges are related and probably has to do with a loose connection or a bad instrument cluster.

I saw this in another post and it has worked for me repeatedly. I usually laeve the ignition turned on so I can see when the gauges come back and whack the top of the dashboard with the palm of my hands on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually, it only takes one whack before the gauges come to life and the thing starts. Clearly, this does not fix the problem, but it kind of narrows it down a bit. I really don't need to whack it that hard.

" have had this same problem for the past year. We have tried everything you could think of without much success. My problem is number two and don't have your other problems. When this happened one time, out of frustration I slammed my fist on top of the dashboard and all the gages came back up, you nshould try this with the key on. You have to do this on both sides of the steering wheel at the same time. Do this as soon as the car doesn,t start the first time not after the car goes dead. If the gauges come up the car will start. I can hit hard enough that it works, my wife can't. If this works your printed circuit board of you instument cluster has a short. The car will run without the cluster, but if you have a factory alarm the starter cut off goes into effect or the car computer thinks that the car is in gear. You can purchase a new on from the dealer for about 400.00. I took mine out and had it repair. I don't know if this is the cure as I only did it about a week ago, I saw your post thought this might help.

Good luck and let us know how you make out, remember hit it hard.
Paul"

Same problem here. New ECM made no difference. I replaced the cluster. The van now starts (and stays running) and all gauges work except the speedo and the gear indicator does not show what gear its in. It is now running in safe mode (2nd gear only). A dealer now has it and they say none of the computers are talking to each other.

They dont seem to think the starting and stalling, then not starting at all thing, has anything to do with the cluster. They seem to think its a security alarm thing. All I know is that when the cluster was not working and the van would not start I pounded the dash, the cluster started working and the van started and ran great. Thats why I replaced the cluster.

This is getting very frustrating and costly.

My 99 does this.
I have found out that I can get mine going again by pulling the 10AMP IOD fuse (from the fuse box under the hood) and putting it back in.
I have no idea what it does, or why it works, but it does with mine.
Scott


DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT I.O.D. STANDS FOR? I HAVE A CIRCUIT SHORT WITH THAT FUSE AND NEED HELP ON IT.
JJFURAY-USERNAME

Hello,

I have had many problems on my Dodge Caravan (1996). Wipers coming on (staying on), air conditioner/heater motor not working, engine light coming on and not going off, blown engine at 88k miles, and on and on!!!!!

I found that there are a few ways that the computer gets reset in this vehicle.

I started the car, and disconnected the positive side of the battery(while it was running) for 1 minute. Then I hooked it back up. This reset the computer much like a reboot on a PC. Check Engine light went away.
I later figured out that my battery was disconnected when the engine was replaced, it caused the check engine light to come on. Mechanics were baffeled, and gave up on getting this light to turn off, so they said it was something else. As you may be aware, a car will not smog unless this light goes away, so I could not just give up. The reset (battery disconnect) works.
This may help on the the gauge problem. I do not know, but it is worth a try.

My Air blower for heater and air conditioner was reset by doing the following:
Find the 4 row of bottons that control the rear wipers (lower 4 each).
The botton on the right of the 4 bottons is for turning the air conditioner pump on, the one on the far left is for the rear wiper.
Turn the engine off, but before you do this, put the air temp slider to the far right side (coldesst), and the fan motor on high. Make sure that the air conditioner pump is off, and then turn the car off, and then start the car up again.
Hold the 2 bottons down (far left, and far right). In other words, do not touch the 2 in the middle. After you hold these 2 outside bottons down for about 5 seconds, you will see that all the lights on the bottons will come on. Once this starts happening, you can let off, and you will see that the lights will go around and around, then the two bottons on the right side will start switching back and forth. Once this happens, it has been reset, and the blower fan will come on.

Every once in a while (progressivly getting worse) my blower fan will not work, and I repeat this process and it starts working again. I am sure it is related to the Body Control Module (BCM), but I don't want to spend another $300 or $400 dollars on this vehicle.

What I really want to do, is go far out into the Nevada Dessert and set up a tent with just me and my wife, under the Beautiful moonlight, and then start the car on file while we roast marshmellows on the burning fire of this vehicle!!!!!
(while the wipers are on!!!!!!)



1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.
:banghead:

I am having the same problem also, have taken it in to be fixed and they don't know what is wrong. I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager and it has been doing this for about a year. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't. I can't afford another vehicle at this time and need something reliable. I am going to try some of the cheap fixes I have seen on here and keep my eye on this site.

Have a 98 Grand Caravan with digital Odometer and "PRND3L". The digital display to those go blank and the van will not start. A quick whack to the top of the dash will relight them. After that the van will start. My thinking it that the reason it won't start is because the computer can't tell if the van is in Park or Nuetral when the dash lights go out. Therefore the nuetral-safety switch wont allow it to start. I'm not sure why the dash lights or the "PRND3L" goes out but should be a loose wire or bad cluster. Hope this helps.

I tried hitting the dash also and it really works. Thanks for the tip. There should be a recall for this problem with as many people that are having it.

Read this......

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166660

and this.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=285537

for the heating problem.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=301816

Has anyone found a resolution for the instrument cluster guage problems? We are experiencing the same symptons on a 1998 Town and Country van. Thanks.

1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.
:banghead:

lol..well now..don't bang yer heads for nuttin' hehehe
anyways..get a good electronics person get the cluster out and resolder the connectors and some of the power resistors and look for cracks around the solderpoints and resolder those..thats it..yer problem fixed and yer codes will go away..
chrysler should of used good quality solder like a Kestler instead of a cheap chinese version ;)
the repair should take about an hr total..so go have fun..seeyaz :)

1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.
:banghead:
okay, I dont get on the site real often...but, there was a time when I was haveing problems with my guages on my 93 gcaravan...I racked the brain and went thru several tries with the bcm...probly still have some laying around ...finally I disassembled the dash and guages, on the rear circuit board I found a bad diode..( easy to check) I cant remember the circuit position number....any way I replaced it with a radio shack stock,then I whet ahead and touched up the rest of the solder joints to clear up any "cold" joints . which can cause all kinds of problems ...because the power or signal being tranfered to or from their points are not getting their stable power or signal...some of the problems described in here is most likely that diode...being compleatly bad or defective thus intermittent...I dont know who designed these boards or who assemblyed them but dodge should have a recall on them
the other thing thats hard to trace down is " the bad ground" insure that all grounds are cleaned and secure...guage grounds ...dash grounds...inspect the terminal connection on the wires , the lugs to be sure there not "short Changed " on metal meat ...
hope I helped
Bill

okay, I dont get on the site real often...but, there was a time when I was haveing problems with my guages on my 93 gcaravan...I racked the brain and went thru several tries with the bcm...probly still have some laying around ...finally I disassembled the dash and guages, on the rear circuit board I found a bad diode..( easy to check) I cant remember the circuit position number....any way I replaced it with a radio shack stock,then I whet ahead and touched up the rest of the solder joints to clear up any "cold" joints . which can cause all kinds of problems ...because the power or signal being tranfered to or from their points are not getting their stable power or signal...some of the problems described in here is most likely that diode...being compleatly bad or defective thus intermittent...I dont know who designed these boards or who assemblyed them but dodge should have a recall on them
the other thing thats hard to trace down is " the bad ground" insure that all grounds are cleaned and secure...guage grounds ...dash grounds...inspect the terminal connection on the wires , the lugs to be sure there not "short Changed " on metal meat ...
hope I helped
Bill

you are right about those of course..
chrysler has used terrible quality molex connectors,solder and some of the additional parts are subpar..
as being an ee myself I could add that the overall quality of the elctronics is very poor , comparing to the standard what supposed to be in automotive electronics.lot of the intermittent instrument faliures is directly tied to the types of connectors they're using.some of them are lose fit, causing bad connections.looks like this is one of the area they are cutting corners, to save some dough.

addendum.. if you feel adventureous you might want to remove the gauges itself and spray some WD40 on the shaft until they are spin freely. the 2 coils in the gauge is supposed to move the needles up and down , but a lot of cases the grease is so hardened inside the meterbody that it would give you false readings ie..showing hot water when the engine is cold, or intermittent fuel levels ,sometimes half way or empty.
but prolly yer best bet is get some new ones, they are very easy to change and shouldnt cost much. for the most part (as on my 1994 caravan 6 gauge cluster) they are excatly the same and interchangeable.one more thing...make sure , when you remove the needles be very careful by not breaking the metalpins on the meterbody.you should be able to pull them srtaight off.
good luck :)

you are right about those of course..
chrysler has used terrible quality molex connectors,solder and some of the additional parts are subpar..
as being an ee myself I could add that the overall quality of the elctronics is very poor , comparing to the standard what supposed to be in automotive electronics.lot of the intermittent instrument faliures is directly tied to the types of connectors they're using.some of them are lose fit, causing bad connections.looks like this is one of the area they are cutting corners, to save some dough.

addendum.. if you feel adventureous you might want to remove the gauges itself and spray some WD40 on the shaft until they are spin freely. the 2 coils in the gauge is supposed to move the needles up and down , but a lot of cases the grease is so hardened inside the meterbody that it would give you false readings ie..showing hot water when the engine is cold, or intermittent fuel levels ,sometimes half way or empty.
but prolly yer best bet is get some new ones, they are very easy to change and shouldnt cost much. for the most part (as on my 1994 caravan 6 gauge cluster) they are excatly the same and interchangeable.one more thing...make sure , when you remove the needles be very careful by not breaking the metalpins on the meterbody.you should be able to pull them srtaight off.
good luck :)
I think you might be asking to much for the average guy or gal ...the insides of the guages are delicate any strain or flex could damage the for sure ....I think troubleshooting the grounds and diodes on the back of the guage cluster...theres not many componets...not overwelming...
I personallydont buy the bcm as being at fault on no guage or inermittent guages....fuel guage is different ....when connections are repaired it may still not work...dodge has fuel sender problems too....Ha if my van wasnt so dependable Id crap can it haha
Bill

I think you might be asking to much for the average guy or gal ...the insides of the guages are delicate any strain or flex could damage the for sure ....I think troubleshooting the grounds and diodes on the back of the guage cluster...theres not many componets...not overwelming...
I personallydont buy the bcm as being at fault on no guage or inermittent guages....fuel guage is different ....when connections are repaired it may still not work...dodge has fuel sender problems too....Ha if my van wasnt so dependable Id crap can it haha
Bill

well...the problem with mine was more of the cluster, since it caused a total panel faliure with the gauge check light coming on..eversince everything is looks OK for now..lol.
but you cannot be sure about it.
i dont want to sound as a pessimist,but chrysler's plug and play approach in their van building procedures is less than adequate for the most part.
I have ppl whos car or van haven't even hit 50K and having all kinds of electronic problems already...given most makes and models.
since I'm living here in windsor,canada(the automotive capitol of this country)we make most of these minivans here and I have a lot of friends working for the company and most of them drives other makes, mostly japanese or european.that should tel you something about their thrust in their own workforce and company and related policies.
I for one always liked chryslers for their compact and simplistic designs and a very comfortable drive.
on the other hand, their approach to quality solution and its execution of it leaves much to be desired.
I guess you just cannot have the old dogs without fleas ...lol
on the other note...working on the cluster and the meter bodies was intended for the more technically inclined personnel.hopefully, the less inclined person will get some ideas of our contribution to the masses and hopefully they won't get ripped off by some insanity oriented shop or person.
much to be obligated :)
p.s. a friend of mine(in a local shop)has redone a complete engine work with all new seals all around for $600 canadian.
its a 3.3 automatic. runs smooth as a babies bottom and the guy worth every penny ;)
thnx for your time and good talking :)

After extensive research I am happy to report the solution to the dead gauge cluster and subsequent engine dying. This occurred primarily every week in the summer months because of a dash circuit board's expansion and contraction from the heat and sun.

The instrument cluster's circuit board's connections to the primary cable interface is weak. One can attempt to reflow the joints. Instead, in June I purchased a $80.00 used replacement gauge cluster from an Ebay supplier. With the Hayes manual and about 1 hour of easy work (16 screws) the replacement cluster was operating. I am happy to report no fault reoccurence these past 2 summer months.

Just make sure to disconnect the battery so an airbag will not go off.

Relieved,
C.Hanau

Here's the how to on removing and re-soldering the gauge cluster. (http://www.ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html)

My 95 Voyager dash is totaly dead not lights or gauges