Ghetto fab that works...

OK all, I wanna know about ghetto tricks you guys have used that actually work... Here's my contribution: Get a couple or 3 washers, some longer 10mm bolts, and put a couple of washers between your hood and hood brackets. It lifts your hood up just a little and increases air flow. I saw some "kits" for it on ebay and decided to give it a shot with washers I had at home. I did it a couple weeks ago, and since then my temp needle deflects just a little bit down, maybe by 1/8th or 1/4. It's cheap and easy, works ok. Lemme know if you guys have done anything like that at all that worked.

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so wtf did u post for then :roll: Whore

Heres a couple more...
-High beam headlight in low beam's place
-90-91 civic clear bumper lenses (just pop out orange plastic piece)
-Headlight buzzer from home depot.

you can also use a longer bolt and some washers to fix rear camber :thumbsup:

there are a lot of "tricks" out there. let's hear some good ones i can add to the how-to section :naughty:

Ami, what length bolts and how many washers? Where can you get the bolts at? I need to do that one soon!

all we ended up doing was adding a washer or 2 to the stock bolt. i originally heard you needed a longer bolt. i would say to pull the stock one out and take it down to an automotive store and ask for a longer bolt.

it's always been a very general how-to. there never was an exact science of specific length bolt or number of washers. it's more a trial and error process depending on how low you are.

Yeah, I've heard about that one for a long time, just forgot about it, I guess. I am down about 1.7", so I guess I'll just try throwing on a couple of washers and seeing if that straightens it out some... How much are you lowered on your car?

removing key switch for buzzer-remove plastic covering ign assembly. under ign cyl there is a little black box with 2 blue wires, cut one or both wires and ur buzzer wont work with door open and key in ign.

brighter dash lights-remove guage cluster, remove front cover from cluster, remove individual guages. use rubbing alchohol on Q-tip and rub off all the black stuff off the back of the guage.

short shifter-buy a universal shifter handle(the kind with the 3 set screws), hacksaw about 3-4 inches off of shifter itself. install new shifter handle.(shortens throw by roughly 10-15%)

Yeah, I've heard about that one for a long time, just forgot about it, I guess. I am down about 1.7", so I guess I'll just try throwing on a couple of washers and seeing if that straightens it out some... How much are you lowered on your car?
i have coilovers so i dunno exactly. but i can say it's much more than 1.7"...1 washer should do you fine. if anything i would try to find a washer on the thicker side. that way you get the difference of a washer & 1/2 with just 1 washer :naughty:

Why use washers, use the rubber wide washerlike things..? Ya kno the stoppers.

when u use the washers ur ur rear chamber you need to get 3/8 washers and ever washer u add gives you a 1/2 degree. 1/2 inch = 1/2 degree. 2 washers are good for the stock bolt. 3 is pushing it but will still do. nething more than that you need to get a longer bolt. with ur car bein lowered 1.7 in the rear you will be fine with 3 washers. i have mine lowed 1.5 in the back just for suspension reasons and 3 is workin good for me. and LadyNRedSi, if you wana know how low u are just jack ur car up and messure the amount from the top tread on ur coilover to the bottom of the metal washer (or whatever the piece is that ur adjust).

good to hear somebody has figured out a science to the bolt & washer thing! mind if i add it to the how-to section? even if your numbers are slightly off (not saying that they are) it's still better than the general answer of a bolt and some washers. :grinno:

OK all, I wanna know about ghetto tricks you guys have used that actually work... Here's my contribution: Get a couple or 3 washers, some longer 10mm bolts, and put a couple of washers between your hood and hood brackets. It lifts your hood up just a little and increases air flow. I saw some "kits" for it on ebay and decided to give it a shot with washers I had at home. I did it a couple weeks ago, and since then my temp needle deflects just a little bit down, maybe by 1/8th or 1/4. It's cheap and easy, works ok. Lemme know if you guys have done anything like that at all that worked.

old air cooled VDub trick ;)

Heres mine:

use 6ga battery cable for lawn mowers from walmart ($2.50 ea.) for grounds in your engine compartment. I have 4, ($10 total) one to the trans (for starter), one to the alternator, one to the head (spark plugs), and one to my trunk mounted battery. Much higher capacity than stock 8ga, and cheaper than ebay ground kits.

use 6ga battery cable for lawn mowers from walmart ($2.50 ea.) for grounds in your engine compartment. I have 4, ($10 total) one to the trans (for starter), one to the alternator, one to the head (spark plugs), and one to my trunk mounted battery. Much higher capacity than stock 8ga, and cheaper than ebay ground kits.

damn man thats pretty sweet, i thought that maybe i had been having some grounding problems but it was just that my spark plug wire boots were loose so its all fixed now. But thats a pretty nifty trick.

Oh yeah make your own custom intakes with the shortest tube possible. They beat all other intakes else with gains in my experiences, just make sure you have alot of airflow into your engine bay so that your not sucking too much hot air.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/140601engine_bay_updated.JPG

I'm curious as to what the advantages of the 6ga. ground wire are over 8ga, I haven't had any problems so far with mine.

As for my contribution, for all those guys out there with a squeaky hatch or what you think is squeaky rear suspension, just put a rag over the latch and close your hatch, no more squeaks!

Also on those little bolts that hold the brake lines to your strut body you can replace with a zip tie for a weight savings of .000000000000182 lb.

Take the power wire that goes to your fuel pump (located underneath the little cargo box) and splice in a switch, that makes for a good anti-theft/fuel cutoff switch.

i have one its not ghetto at all though go to a welding supply store and buy #2 wire then solder the ends on and you have just brought your battery/ground cable about as good as you can and thats what most people use in race cars

I'm curious as to what the advantages of the 6ga. ground wire are over 8ga, I haven't had any problems so far with mine.


My stock ones had coroded pretty bad (so bad that they fell apart), so I found a cheap substitute. IDK if there would be any difference compared to stock ones in good working order.