Timing belt change/Interference ??

Curious as to when this should be done.

Truck is 1997, 122K miles, on 3.2L V6; I purchased new at 11K. First timing belt, water pump and tensioner were all replaced at 59K, at that time, the belt and other parts didn't show any kind of wear.

So, I'm curious if I could go a bit longer this time; and, is the '97 3.2L V6 an interference or NON-interference engine?

Thanks!

I'm in nearly the same position...bought it at 30K, first changed at 60K, now at 124K. I want to try to do it myself, but I keep putting it off. I hope to drive this vehicle for another 100K...

Some repair manuals state that they are an interference type engine, but they are not.

Several owners have posted that the T-belts looked new at over 100K miles. I'd only do'em every 100K miles on the 3.2L, 1992-1997 or the 1998-2004 version.
G/luck
Joel

Good news for us procrastinators!

I just purchased a used 98 with 100k and was thinking of changing the timing belt but the local service guys want over $600 to do it. Firs I am wondering how difficult is it to do myself, I am pretty mechanicaly inclined and can do most things myself. Second should I do it at all, don't know the history and if it is ever been done or not, should I wait until it breaks since it seems that this motor is not the interference type? Let me know what you think.

I'd never recommend waiting for it to break. I'm going to try to stretch the lastest change to about 80K, but if I wait much longer than that I won't be able to sleep at night.

I did mine myself @ 135,000 miles. First change. Changed the belt, tensioner, pulley and water pump. The belt was a little loose, but not overly so. With the right tools, impact wrench, etc. it took me around 4 1/2" hours. Now keep in mind I am mechanically inclined and had a Haynes manual and several pages printed out from the internet and it went extremely smooth. Plus it didn't hurt that the guys on here helped steer me in the right direction. I do suggest you do like I did and remove the radiator for more room. I went to a local parts house and rented a puller which turns out I did not need. The crank pully slid off with one good rap of a rubber hammer. I used all OEM parts bought from St. Charles Izuzu. They give a good discount compared to your local "stealer". Also intalled 3 new belts for the AC, PS and fan.

Thanks guys, I am going to buy myself a manual and give it a try.