Z24 88 won't start!

Hi there
Just wondering if anyone can give a hand. My car won't start. I know is not the battery as all the lights and stereo are working. I was tiold to tap the fuel tank maybe the fule pump was't doing it's job. So far no luck. Tried looking for lose connections and as far as I could tell there were none. I could find a wiring diagram for this car? If you got any suggestions they are more than welcomed!
Thanks for your time.

'K. First-remove the gas filler cap and listen in the hole for a whirring or humming noise when someone else turns the ignition key to the "RUN" position without cranking the starter.
No noise means no fuel pump.
Could either be a fuse (located in the fuse block), bad wiring or bad pump-in which case you have to drop the tank (the fuel pump is in the tank) to get the pump out to replace it.
If you hear the pump noise-remove the air cleaner and look down at the throttle plate (TBI).
If fuel is reaching the injector-you'll see it hitting and spreading out on the plate. You may even see the spray pattern if the light is right.
If it's port-injected-crank the engine over for a few seconds and then remove a spark plug. It should be damp with fuel.
This then probably means there's no spark.
Check the electrical connectors at the distributor/coil pack(s) to make sure they are tight.
If you have a 2.8L V6-check the negative coil wire right where it enters the plug that connects to the coil-it is known to break here causing intermittent stalling-no start condition. Bending the wire one way or the other may enable the engine to start. Then all you gotta do is cut the old plug off and splice a new one on. (junkyards are full of them).
Check your distributor-make sure there is no moisture/carbon tracks inside the cap. Check the rotor and the point it rides on to ensure that it is making contact.
Check the plug to the ignitor module inside the distributor-the plugs on these sometimes get brittle and crumble-causing the module to short out and destroy itself-requiring a new module and plug.
Same thing can happen to the integral and non-integrated coil packs/ignition modules on distributorless ignitions.
Check all grounding points on engine block for tightness and corrosion.
Check for broken crankshaft position sensor-no reference pulse=no ignition.
Finally, check for voltage at the coil power leads. No voltage=bad wiring, burned fusible link or bad ign. switch.
Chilton and Haynes both have manuals with schematic diagrams for this car.

thanks for the info

Do you know where I could a free diagram for negative coil. One more question if I take it to a shop how much should I be expecting to pay?

it needs a new ignition control moduel.....its the rectangular 1/2" thick board under the coil packs....this piece is known to go...it has three plugs attatched to it and 3 bolts quite easy to change a little dip into the pocket but its worth gettin ur car running isnt it????

do no go to a shop!