Crank bearings

has anyone ever had to replace the crank bearings before. if so how did you know it was that? i have this knocking sound coming from the timing belt area, i replaced the head, checked the valves, checked oil pressure, done about everything to the head possible and the sound is still there. i replaced the head with a newer one and still there. could it be the crank bearing or a wrist pin? plz help i don't know what to do.

i had a 94 with the same problem. i changed the oil pump pickup and it went away

can i ask how you did that?

update on what is going one. i was driving down the road yesterday when my car made this metal grinding, whining noise and stalled right there. i pulled over onto another road and tried to start the car again. it started up fine and sounded fine at idle. so i pulled out onto the road and it did it again. so i pulled into someone's driveway and tried to start it again. it made that noise while tring to start it. and it kinda felt like someone was holding the crank shaft trying to keep it from truning over.
can someone please tell me what the hell could be wrong. everyone i talk to right before was telling me valves. when i had just replaced them. i have no clue if it could be a crank bearing or something much worse now.

It is possible that you had a spun bearing, but it would have made noise in any rpm range, and I remember you saying that it only did it in a full throttle pull, so it sounded like ping to me, but now it sounds like a possble bearing problem. What you need to do is drain the oil into some kind of a clean container, then strain it with chesse cloth or something and see if you find any little pieces of metal.

just so you know for future reference you can usually determine if there is something wrong in the head or the block by the speed of the noise coming from them... something in the block is going to make a faster sound while something in the head will make a slower sound cause the crank turns at twice the speed of the cams... this will save you some time if this happens again that way you won't have to go through the hassle of working on the head and then finding out the head is fine and the problem is in the block or vice versa.

It is possible that you had a spun bearing, but it would have made noise in any rpm range, and I remember you saying that it only did it in a full throttle pull, so it sounded like ping to me, but now it sounds like a possble bearing problem. What you need to do is drain the oil into some kind of a clean container, then strain it with chesse cloth or something and see if you find any little pieces of metal.
how funny that you say that. my friend just told me that i spun a bearing and my motor is now crap. is that true? if so now time to look for another. if anyone knows of a good motor to put in my ls for under $1k and lives in the southeast let me know. like whtteg in know you live in atl.

and ill check on the metal in the oil. if i don't find any is that ok? just replace the bearing. or wht happens if i find metal in the oil.

how funny that you say that. my friend just told me that i spun a bearing and my motor is now crap. is that true? if so now time to look for another. if anyone knows of a good motor to put in my ls for under $1k and lives in the southeast let me know. like whtteg in know you live in atl.

it doesn't necessarily mean your engine is crap... it depends on the extent of the damage... if it is a spun bearing you're gonna need to have the bottom end inspected along with the crank depending on the extent of the damage that was done will determine if your engine is junk or not... as far as finding metal in your oil that is an indicator to a spun rod or crank bearing because the bearing is essentially getting shreaded by the crank and when this occurs it leaves metal flakes in the oil... if you don't find any metal in the oil just to be on the safe side you might want to drop the oil pan and physically inspected the bearings just to make sure... good luck.

If it turns out to be a spun bearing I would just order a B20 and drop that in there it is a direct swap all you need to do is save your LS intake manifold and exhaust manifold. I know a guy who got on for $700 I will have to see if I can find out where he got it. But also if you do the swap keep the LS motor, you can tear it down and learn some things and not have to be worried about messing something up. ;) And like casperGSR said a spun bearing does not mean the motor is crap, in a lot of cases you can have a machine shop turn the crank and fix the journal, then use a thicker bearing. But it can get expensive to do that, especially if you don't know how to do any of the work yourself. But if you can get a B20 for under $1000 than I would say that is the best route.

If you still want a B18 though I have another but I don't want the bottom end... if you need parts or something let me know.


BTW I'll be back in the south east next week... South East GA. I'm leaving my block here for now... I might ship it but I'm bringing my heads if you think you MIGHT want something from the bottom end I'll load it up next week. I don't have much shit so I can carry almost the entire engine in my teg :P

damn guys thnx alot for all of the input. the way that it felt is the i heard metal on metal grinding and it shut my engine completely down. and if anyone knows of a b20 that would be great. and i will definately keep the old intake and other goodies. and whtteg i would be more than willing to drive from tallahassee to atlanta for an engine.

and whtteg i would be more than willing to drive from tallahassee to atlanta for an engine.

Let me do some searching on the local boards and see if anybody is selling one, or has one they would like to get rid of.

great i will be checking back on a very regular basis today then:bigthumb: thnx for the help. and jsut a quick reminder which car did the b20 come out of again. :shakehead

CRV is what the motor came out of ;) You may not hear back from me until late tonight or tomorrow though.

thnx alot

ok, i've done some research onthe b20. forgive me but, i don't know much about it. now the research i did find was saying that the b20 came with the i-vtec, seemed to be the newer model crv. and then i have also been noticing the b20 in non vtec form, mainly the b20a, and the b20b. from what i noticed. and which one are you talking about whtteg?

B20b or B20Z are the ones you want. Perferably the B20Z. I did some looking around here and have found nothing so far. This is where the guy who got his for cheap got it from. clicky (http://www.junkyarddog.com/)

thnx alot, i'm currently checking everywhere. if i do end up finding a b20 is it possible to keep my ecu too?