Changing spark plugs

I'm thinking about changing the spark plugs on my 3.1 L v6 Malibu, but need to know how difficult it is to change the rear spark plugs. Any advice is appreciated.

I've done it once (about 6 months ago) on my 99 Malibu...
If you have a good set of tools with a decent selection of extensions then you should be fine...
The only painful experience was the removal of 2 of the spark plug wire boots. It took me forever... there's just not enough room to maneuver your arm to an efficient angle as to apply max pull.
So my advice to you would be to first (before you even bother buying spark plugs) try to remove those 3 boots in the rear. Should you not be able to remove all of'em then you may have to let a mechanic do the job.

It really isn't all that hard but then again I am a mechanic. But I still don't recall having to use any special tools. A swivel and a longer extention (18" or so) works good.

I had to use a universal joint and a couple of extensions to do the job. I suggest you wear a glove or wrap a towel around your knuckle when you do it though, because when you go to pull the boot off its on there pretty tight - same with the first turn of the spark plug.

I second that! Btw update a shorter extension 3" or so would be a good idea for the #3 cyl (middle rear). Just did one yesterday...

If your car is a '96 or newer, you should have 100,000 mile plugs. They do last that long, too. A 5-inch extension and a flex head ratchet make easy work of it. The only problem is the boots. The best way for them is to twist until the entire boot comes loose from the plug and gently pull. It is real easy to yank the boot off and leave the terminal on the plug.
Also, check all the plug wires at the coils. They tend to micro-arc (rust) on the terminals and give you all kinds of little gremlins. If you find any, replace the coil and wire.

It really isn't that hard. You can't see them but u can go off of feel. The worst thing is leaning over the motor it is a back breaker. I changed mine at 68K and it was time. 100k my ass. Maybe under perfect ideal conditions not the real world. I didnt need a universal or anything. Just take ur time and all i needed was a 4 inch or so extension. I went one plug at a time so i didnt get the boots switched.

True that, gapboi210. 100K and mine were little nubs. Reaching back there is not too bad. I did it with a short extension and great "feel".

What plugs do you guys recommend?

What plugs do you guys recommend?

AC Delco, 41-979

you'd better change the wire set as well if it is original. It is also easy to destroy the old wire while you're trying to pull off the plugs.

I highly recommend a spark plug boot puller. Also if you can blow out around the plugs before removing with air. a section of gas line cut about 8 inches and slipped over the new plug makes easy instalation. Never remove a plug / bolt from the engine while hot.

I highly recommend a spark plug boot puller. Also if you can blow out around the plugs before removing with air. a section of gas line cut about 8 inches and slipped over the new plug makes easy instalation. Never remove a plug / bolt from the engine while hot.

I agree with all of this, good advice, stone cold engine is a must.

delco or delco plats only!!!!!!!!

I would definitly say go Ac-Delco! I went with Bosch Platinums and had a rough idle and a "miss" in high rpms. Switched to a set of Bosch Platinums +2. Same problem, finally got some Ac-Delco even though they seemed of lower quality but the car ran smooth at high rpms and did not shudder while idling anymore. They can be hard to find outside of the dealership though.

If your car is a '96 or newer, you should have 100,000 mile plugs. They do last that long, too. A 5-inch extension and a flex head ratchet make easy work of it. The only problem is the boots. The best way for them is to twist until the entire boot comes loose from the plug and gently pull. It is real easy to yank the boot off and leave the terminal on the plug.
Also, check all the plug wires at the coils. They tend to micro-arc (rust) on the terminals and give you all kinds of little gremlins. If you find any, replace the coil and wire.

Exactly! The plugs are actually a relatively straight shot, but facing the firewall. The flex-head ratchet is ideal with a 5-6" extension on the right (rear) head, and a 3" on the left (front) head.

I would add that all these suggestions for OEM dual platinum plugs are right on. They are definitely worth the extra dollar or two apiece.

You will very likely have difficulty with the plug wires, and twisting them prior to removal to make sure the terminals are free will help immensely. I've had several that I've just ended up pulling off, then replacing or repairing (strip and crimp) the plug terminal back on. If you DO replace wires, stick with the Packard Electric sets. You can very frequently remove, clean, and inspect the wires, then measure overall resistance. Expect about 3,000-5,000 ohms per foot of wire length. If there are no burns, cuts, or other damage to the wires, they can be re-used with no problem. The factory wire routing is very good, and usually prevents any of this damage, but you must inspect them.

Regardless of whether you replace or use the old wires, you MUST apply silicone dielectric grease to the boots on both ends to assure a watertight and gas-tight seal. After struggling to remove the wires from the plugs, you'll appreciate one of the reasons why.

Inspect the spark towers on the coil packs for signs of arcing, carbon streaks, or flashover. Clean away any contaminants, and you should be all set.

Whatever plug you install, get a small bottle of antiseize compound and apply it to the threads on every spark plug before installing them. Keep the compound off the ends and on the threads only, and brush it well into the threads. You don't want to have to pull a head the next time a plug needs to be changed.

You MUST check the gap on the plugs, and set it as close to the specification (0.060" IIRC) as possible. Don't assume the plugs come out of the boxes with the proper gap - They're usually close, but not close enough. Wasted spark systems require correct gap to provide adequate spark energy on the "active" plug. Impoprer gap will lead to misfire on these system much more easily than a coil-on-plug or more conventional ignition system.

Some V-6 engines you can unbolt a front engine mount and pull the engine forward to make it easier. Lilse makes a tool for this. It has a couple of l shaped ends threaded and when turning a turn buckle you pull the engine forward.