1997 Rodeo Lugs and Lug nut Breakage

Seems everytime I have the wheels removed for for any reason, the lugs break off. Is there a design defect? or What. Does anyone know of a good after market solution?

From what I have read, the problem is that most tire places over-torque the lug nuts. It also helps to put some anti-seize goo on the lugs before threading the nuts on. Probably won't help you now but may help in the future.

I've got a 99 that I've had for about a month and I worry that I may have to same problem when I pull the wheels off to do a brake job.

JWS

From what I have read, the problem is that most tire places over-torque the lug nuts.
JWS

I sure have seen that. When I took my Trooper in to get new Cooper Discoverers installed, They torqued the lug nuts on so tight, I had to use a 2 foot breaker bar on the end of my ratchet to loosen them up. When I went back and complained, he said that they always use a torque wrench. I told him how difficult it was to remove the lug nuts and he looked at me like I was making the whole thing up. I never went back to that tire store again.

Dale

Same here. I couldn't believe how tight the lugs were when I had to change a flat on my wife's car. Way overtight. I had to improvize a breaker bar with some square tubing on the bottom of the arm pad for my bicep machine. I cringe waiting for the lug nut to break.

I just checked out alldata and there is a tech bulletin about a "tourque stick" being used for installation. Anyone have info for SB99-14-S008 MAY 99 Wheel Lug - Torque Stick Now Used for Installation ??

I also have a 97 Rodeo that I have owned for 6 years. Every single time the tires come off I would loose one at least. After the first couple of times I became really really bent out of shape over it. I started looking into the problem and found out that it is simply that Isuzu puts out some pretty crappy lugs. The Isuzu dealer themselves also told me this as they are charging me to replace the four that they broke off (and they were the last to touch it the previous time which was two days prior!!). If they had been so kind as to break one on each tire I would have brought it home and done it myself but they broke two on each side of the front and I can't safely drive it like that. I am seriously concidering changing out every lug and lug nut on this vehicle because I am sinking way too much time and money into replacing these stupid things. With mine you can't use aftermarket lugs with the existing lug nuts they won't come together correctly so you have to replace both then I need new lug wrench. I think it's worth it in the long run.

Luckily Isuzu fixed the lug nut problem by the time they assembled my '00 Rodeo. I took my car into NTB for a balance and rotation and the service manager told me of this notorious problem. He said he has seen rarely seen a Rodeo make it through the procedure without shearing a stud, so much so that NTB was once considering banning the vehicle. Mine went into service with explicit instructions to the mechanic to loosen and torque the nuts by hand to prevent exceesive torque. After observing that Isuzu had apparently corrected this issue, he was able to safely use the gun. I am not exactly sure when this issue was resolved by Isuzu, but I would assume that any '01 and later need not worry. Maybe I got lucky with my '00. Never-the-less, this can turn a routine visit into an expensive one: $3 per stud and $2 per nut to replace x 24 runs up a quick $120 bill for parts.

I too, so so so fear this everytime I get my tires rotated/balanced. I'm almost to the point of not wanting to rotate them, but I have to, a good set of LT245/75 16 Bridgestone Revo's aren't cheap by a long shot. Don't want to shell out another $800 for tires in the next few years at least. :disappoin

How many times can one be broke off and replaced before you have to replace the whole spindle :uhoh: (think that's the right part) ??

I too have had this truck since new, and I"ve lost count of the lug nuts that have been sheared/replaced.

The shop usually requests replacing them all at once once you've broken one off. Once they are replaced you won't/shouldn't have the problem again.

Ramblin Fever, how do you like those REVOs? Thinking of getting myself a set.

Love em dearly! I've had them since October 03, and have tested them out on snow, ice, mud, and heavy rains so far.

They cover a wide range of happiness in my book, and they've brought back the "can do" attitude of this 4x2 when a lot of other trucks/SUV's with 4x4 were sliding around.

I needed a set of tires that could take me everywhere, but still be suitable for highway as well - as we are very true to the call sign, Ramblin Fever, and in order to find places for sight-seeing, boating, etc the highway is our friend.

As a side note, Rheteric, I do not recommend Goodyear Wrangler tires.

Had them for 4yrs, first 2yrs were ok, last 1 1/2yrs they grew harder and harder to keep balanced, VERY picky on pressure, and just were total junk in wet situations. They had LOTS of tread left, even at 40K miles, but I just couldn't handle the headache anymore.

With the Revo's, they do sing just a slight tad, at least on my truck they do - but they've put the life back in the truck, I actually like driving again. No vibrations, corners VERY well, and very exceptional on wet surfaces.

I keep the pressure at about 38 on all 4's, but will probably put the rear at 40psi in the summer once the boat's back there.

That part you'll want to play with a bit to find out what you prefer, I initially had them at 35psi, however got a lot of what felt like tire rolling off rim during cornering.

Not sure if the 1st gen Rodeos required higher tire pressure, but my factory spec is like 28psi or something. I do like to run the OEM Duellers a little stiffer than that though. I have no desire to get Goodyears. Really the only other tire I'm considering are the Cooper Discoverer S/Ts or A/Ts. I'd just like to take a ride in something with the S/Ts before committing to such an agressive tread. Do you know if your REVOs are P-rated or LT-rated? Any opinions regarding that designation are welcome. Sorry about going on a tangent on this thread..... I'll start the topic on a new thread shortly for any follow-ups.

LT - but they come in different levels of stiffness, 6-ply or C; 8-ply or D; and 10-ply or E.

I chose the 6-ply LT's, as I drive a lot in the summer for traveling and usually have a full load in the truck.

My OEM tires that came on the truck were P225/75 16's, or 4-ply - they did last longer then I expected, but I didn't like the way the truck handled while pulling the boat with those, and I sustained a LOT of holes/patches. Needed the added strength of 6-ply.

If you don't tow a good load (for the size of vehicle) or do any mild/moderate trail riding where rocks (not boulders) could tear up the lugs on the tread or puncture the tire, then I see no reason to not go with a 4-ply.

However, I have many more reasons for a 6-ply versus just the obvious, I also like the 6-ply because the tread depth is generally deeper then 4-ply, thus giving longer life to the tire, even if it's solely used for highway purposes with no load.

My .02, spend a little extra and get the LT's, or 6-ply (C rated), they'll last longer. You don't want, or need 8 or 10-ply, they'll beat you to death. :banghead: :banghead:

Forgot to add, my door specs for OEM tire pressure is 32psi

That's what I figured. I saw some E rated ones for sale and although they may be a good deal, I think I'd better stay away as that'd be real overkill for my needs. Ride comfort is still very high on my list. Thanks for your .02..... I think I'm gonna wait and get the 6-ply's.