Tune up suggestions ....

Im wanting to due a "tune up" on my 1994 Z28 and I am unsure what type of plugs and wires would be the best..??? I also am wondering if a new distributor cap should be done at this time as well..?? I have heard that it is very difficult to get to the plugs on this LT1 and I am wondering if it is better to have a professional mechanic due the change rather than myself..??? I appreciate any and all help without my questions..!!! Thanx...

You could probably get to the plugs from under the car. But I'm not sure. And don't you have the opti spark thing? Isn't that self inclosed so you wouldn't need a dist. cap? I'm not sure. Anyway, bocsh platnum is a good plug.

Plugs 2,4: remove spark plug wire holder from cylinder head. Might help to remove middle inner fender panel as well and go at the plugs through the wheel well, but I can get to both from the conventional route w/o trouble.

Plug 6: not very difficult, and requires nothing be removed from car.

Plug 8: will help to remove plug wire holder from head to get this, but I have done it without removing anything from the car except the wire boot from the plug itself.

Passenger side should take 30 minutes.

Plugs 1,3: remove inner fender panel from wheel well. Go at plugs from wheel well with a 12" extension on your wrench. Should take about 40 minutes. Be careful!

Plugs 5,7: here is where the real fun is. You must partially remove the AIR system. Locate the T-fitting in the AIR system just above the exhaust manifold. Disconnect the rubber hose going forward out of this T to the metal pipe that goes into the manifold. Next, follow the hose out of the bottom of the T. Disconnect it at the fitting under the ASR box. Now, the AIR hosing will lift out of your way. Take off the wire holder from the cylinder head. You will now be able to change these two plugs. Neither needs to be accessed from below.

To change these plugs you must be patient and be able to thread plugs w/o being able to see what you are doing, just feeling what you are doing. Use anti-seize compound. I use a spark plug socket with a foam insert to protect the plug and with a 11/16" hex pattern on the outside. Then, instead of putting my breaker bar or ratchet into the plug socket, I put a 11/16" 12-point on the ratchet, and use that socket around the plug socket. This is of immense help. I hand tighten as far as I possibly can, then slowly wrench tigten.

Remember, If you get platinum plugs, dont gap them.. I hear way too many people saying that botch platinum plugs are garbage, but the only problem is that they scratched the shit out of the platinum gapping them..

Use MSD 8.8 super conducter wires

Man, you have more patients than I do, that's for damn sure.

before the N2O days, I had the best luck with AC Delco PLatinum plugs over the Bosch +4's....But if you do not mind changing them, NGK plugs work fine (I think stock for an LT1 would be a TR5 or something, TR6 is 2 stages colder). For wires, a lot of people use the Taylors, but the Factory Wire set is awesome on the 96-97 cars, so you can use that if you can get a good deal on it. I have the Acell Extreme 9000 wires on my 383 LT1 with no probs. You can get just a cap and rotor set for the Opti, but it is Expensive and you have to remove the crank Hub and waterpump to change it. If you are near 90,000 miles or more, I would suggest investing in a new opti, but if you are only at like 40k-50k, Dont waste your time and money yet.

deadcarny..lol
I love that nickname man...

I hate carny's

Ok, Platinum plugs only need to be changed every 100K miles, but aaren't plain copper plugs better... copper is a better conductor than platinum.

copper is a better conductor, but platinum has a lower temperature coefficient...

So which which provides better spark? I'd think copper

copper is better if you do not mind changing them on an LT1..... if you do not want to keepe chinging them, Platinum is the way to go. Since the original poster posted that he was doing a 'tune up', I translate that as somebody that does not want to do it every 15,000 miles or less.

if you can afford it take it to the dealer.
I did mine about 3 months ago
you do not have a distributor cap.
it is a sealed distributor.
and your distributor is behind the water pump.
the spark plugs on the drivers side can all be reached from under the car pretty easily.
the spark plug wires are another story.
one or two wires are run in a metal wire cover that is bolted to the block with 2 bolts.
the bolts are under the exhaust manifold.
the passengers side plugs are a real pain.
I had to take the exhaust pipes lose from both sides then drop the starter so I could get my hand to the plugs.
seams the wires were not as herd on that side.
if you do decide to go this rout when you drop the exhaust cover the pipes so you do not drop any bolts plugs or tools down them.

ok, well mine's an LS1 and so they are fairly easy to get at, so I guess I'm going copper

I run NGK V power plugs on my RS best plug I have used so far I like it better than the Bosch plugs. Harder to foul.

Are they Pltinum or Copper???
What would you guys suggest as a decent starter ignition set-up (wires & plugs)

Copper plug.
I dont mind changing my plugs every 10,xxx or so miles..

what wires?

Junk ones for now because I dont plan on keeping the 305 in there. After that prolly some nice Taylor wires.

LS1's are easy like pie! their literally right the. the lt1's man it took me 5 HOURS to change them all (plugs and wires)

I got these Bosch wires as a gift, but they were from autozone and to me seem no better than stock, i was think of going with an NGK set-up (can't hurt to match brands right)

i had fun changin the wires in my 91 z28. had to get under the car, did the whole thing in about an hour without removing anything. now im just wondering if i got em right, took em out one at a time and matched the sizes as best i can but ive done this before on a different car and it seems every time there are one or two that arent exactly the same size, and this was from their custom kit! ph

I used the Taylor 8mm on my LT1. I HAD TO WORK AT GETTING THEM IN THE METAL BRACKET THEY RUN IN, CUZ THEY ARE BIGGER THAN STOCK.
BUT I LIKE THEM.
THE STOCK ONES ARE SUPPOSE TO BE PRETTY GOOD THOUGH.
I USED THE AC DELCO PLUGS.
THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO BE 100K MILE PLUGS.

before the N2O days, I had the best luck with AC Delco PLatinum plugs over the Bosch +4's....But if you do not mind changing them, NGK plugs work fine (I think stock for an LT1 would be a TR5 or something, TR6 is 2 stages colder). For wires, a lot of people use the Taylors, but the Factory Wire set is awesome on the 96-97 cars, so you can use that if you can get a good deal on it. I have the Acell Extreme 9000 wires on my 383 LT1 with no probs. You can get just a cap and rotor set for the Opti, but it is Expensive and you have to remove the crank Hub and waterpump to change it. If you are near 90,000 miles or more, I would suggest investing in a new opti, but if you are only at like 40k-50k, Dont waste your time and money yet.