With Proper Tuning, What You Guys Think This Can Do?

Yes yet another one of those threads. :D

I'm actually curious because I'm looking at this one DSM and wondering what kind of figures I maybe hitting. I was told with good tuning mid 12's, with race gas perhaps 11's. Going off that, I'm guessing around 350-400whp?

Or I could be really off, but interesting to have a figure in your head on a car you may buy.

Also this may make me sound like a pussy, but I've never driven a car over 280hp before, so I have no idea what kind of power this is behind the wheel. I may need some tips. ;)

5spd
EPROM ECU (?)
ACT 2100 Clutch and Pressure Plate
Taylor 8mm Plugs
NGK BR7's
Greddy Auto TT
Apexi SAFC 2 Black ltd edition
PTE 660cc Ball style injectors
Walbro 255lph pump
t3/t4 manifold
t3/t04e .60 a.r. turbo
Tial 38mm wastegate w/ .8 bar spring
SS Dump Tube "Screamer Pipe
Manual Boostcontroller
RNR Turboback o2 Eliminator Exhaust
Dejontool 3.5" Intake
SBR Front Mount Intercooler w/ Short Route Piping
Greddy Type S BOV
K&N Filter
Autometer Lunar Boost Guage
Autometer Lunar EGT
Autometer Ultra Lite A/F

Talked to the guy on the phone just briefly and he's telling me this setup is set at 13psi because of the wastegate springs or something to that effect, could be off lol. Anyway he says it should handle 17psi though no problem, what do you guys think this is about? I'm a newbie hard to grasp all these concepts all at once. I just have the basic idea of how a forced induction system works, but nothing really in depth.

Also you guys think this is a deal? Says under 200 miles on the new setup, 95 AWD TSI, 70k milage, $10,600 obo. I'm wanting $10k shipped if possible, think that sounds fair?

jeez that sounds like a low psi setting for that turbo. it should handle like 20+ with all those other mods. i think you got it right about the #'s, i wouldn't think 12's to be unreachable as long as you pump up the boost

Your numbers sound accurate. I have a similar set-up and I have run low 12's, but have yet to dyno her. Your set-up will handle a lot more boost. I currently run 19 psi on the street and 24 psi with race gas, with no problems. The price sounds very good for the amount of work that has been done to the car. Understand that because you are buying a car with that much done to it, that it was probably driven pretty hard. When I purchased my 97 I spent around 1000.00 on general maint. parts to get it back up to peak condition, before I started driving hard. I replaced the Brake rotors and pads, Timing belt and pulley's, removed the balance shafts, Emptied, flushed and replaced the fluids in the Tranny, Center and Rear Diffs, Replaced the spark plugs and wires, and changes the valve cover gasket for good measure. I am not saying that all of these things need to be done, just don't get blinded by the big turbo and pretty exhaust.

Just some advice from a DSM'er who was once blinded by the big turbo and pretty exhaust on a previous car purchase. Do with it what you will.

Talked to him again some more tonight. Found out that he took off the AC because of the tight fit. Anyone know if I can have it put back in without many clearance problems? Would I have to reroute the hoses a bit or...? (dunno how the compresser even looks like lol, let alone where it's at in the engine bay) So thats something else I gotta keep in mind.

Another thing I don't like is that theres a tear in one of the seats, and their cloth. Looks like I'll have to shell out some cash to get them redone in leather.

But other than those things he said that the timing belt and everything else he replaced shortly after he bought it (@ 58k), so hopefully no more surpises.

Tips on lower the price? I wanna do the cloth seat excuse, cause really thats gonna run me around $700 to get replaced from what I've seen so far, so it's something I have to take into account. Also the body is faded some w/ scratches, but I'm redoing all that, so doesn't brother me much though. However guess I can use that to my advantage hehe.

PS: the guy is only a senior in HS, I'm really curious how he had the $6k+ to mod the car and the $6k+ to buy it to begin with @ that age

PSS: forgot... he said that if I switch to a Tial 38mm wastegate w/ 1.2 bar spring instead of a .8 that I should be able to boost to 17psi no problem. That sound right to you guys? I think he mentioned a price of around $170, although I'm not to certain on that. Oh and another thing he recommened was a datalogger w/ palm pilot to tune it. Are there good instructions on how to operate that sort of thing so that I may tune it myself or is that not recommened?

PSSS: hehe just checked my notes and also he mentioned the ABS light being on, says he didn't want to pay a dealer to check it out and so he's leaving it at that, claims not to be experiencing any problems. Your guys thoughts?

1. the AC... first off there should be no clearance problems that i know of, i know on my GST it has plenty of room, even with the 6 bolt motor! so i think he is givin ya a line of BS, but anyways leave it off, its just weight that you dont need anyways, AC to me is 80mph down the highway with the windows down and the sunroof open :p!!!

2. as for the seats... dont worry about the rip, if you can get it down in price go for it but its not a big problem!!! and for your "$700" recovering job on them, i'd say screw that and go buy some nice comfortable racing seats! check out Cobra, they are leather but still a very comfortable racing seat, i'm planning on getting them for my GST!

3. its not that uncommon to see people that are still in high school spending a lot of money on performance and nice cars, atleast around here... when i built my RST i was a senior, as a matter of fact i used it as a project in one of my large motors classes! 1/2 month later i bought my bike (2003 Yamaha R6), the bike is paid for, the car is paid for, and i even have my Project GST! (paid for) ;) although i work 4 jobs to support all my toys, its worth it in the long run! there are quite a few kids that have a lot of nice stuff around here... most of the time its their mommys and daddys that buy their stuff for them, plus they live with their parents thru high school so they have no bills to spend their money on, so why not put it towards your car!!!

4. instead of spending so much on a new spring get a electronic boost controller or crank up the MBC so that it doesnt allow as much pressure on the spring, that way your WG wont open until you reach higher boost! someone correct me if i am wrong but you should be able to run 17psi no problem right now! for the datalogger, its not really that hard to use, it just takes some getting use to, understanding all the numbers and certain curves on the charts... do some research about them, if i were you i would just get DSMlink right away instead of wasting your money on a different datalogger, exspecially if you plan to run 12's!!!

5. check the fuses and check the break fluid! i have seen dummy lights that come on before cause of the break fluid... also try resetting the ECU, pull the negative off the battery and let it sit for about 5 mins... put it back on and see if it clears it, if not either take it to the dealer or see if Autozone can check it!

Does the seller have the reciept to prove he had the timing belt and all of its related parts changed. I am sure he is a trust worthy guy, but I would want to see a reciept for the work before I felt comfortable buy not replacing it. I have seen too mony friends buy DSM's from people who have said they had this or that done and 2 weeks later the turbo blows or the timing belt breaks.

As far as negotiating goes, use everything to your advantage. The A/C not working, the rip in the interior, the faded paint. Do not let him know what your plans are. All of those aftermarket parts on his car are worth 15-20 cents on the dollar the second they go on the car. with that being said all of the parts should add 900-1200 dollars to the price. Remember this is business and do not be afraid to low ball him to begin with and point out what is wrong with the car to justify the price you are offering.

Alright I am done preaching.

As far as the Wastegate goes. I have the exact same wastegate and I am running 19 psi with my JoeP E-MBC with no problems. Just try turning up the boost with the MBC and see what happens. I would also recommend DSM Link. I use it and it is great. I have more flexability than the Apexi SAFC and I do not have to worry about the unit getting stolen.

There's my $.05 worth of advice, take it for what you will and happy motoring.

Just my opinion...........I wouldn't spend more than 8k on this car. I guarantee the owner has raced this engine and possibly ran it into the ground. You're going to be replacing all kinds of parts and spending a shitload of money to fix it when it breaks.........and IT WILL BREAK.