clean key wait 3 minutes

just about every time i get in the car the darn light comes on the dash and doesnt let me start the car up..the security light comes on the dash 2....i waith about two minutes and when the light goes away the car fires right up.....can anyone help with this..do i really need a new key or is something else going wrong here....

ignition switch gone bad?

Clean the resistor in the key with alcohol first. Another thing I've heard on here is that a large ring of keys might put pressure on the ignition switch and lead to it loosening up enough to make poor contact with the key. You might try keeping the key angled upwards as much as possible when putting it in and see if that helps at all.

It could be a bad key, but it's not too likely as long as the resistor is still in place. There just isn't much to them. A locksmith shop can make passkey 1 keys for your 95 easily though (cheaper than the dealer usually). A new key will have the ideal resistance if your old one is somehow worn. There are something like 6 choices of resistance values with a reasonable gap in between each, so they should be able to figure out the correct blank to use.

If you still have trouble don't spend a fortune having the dealer fix anything. A car stereo shop has to bypass those things everytime they do a remote starter install- just have them rig it up.

stop picking your ear wax out with it.

I had the same problem a couple years ago...follow the D.I.C. statement to "clean the key". Prior to trying the "cleaned" key I used my other (seldom used) key and it worked fine. Then I tried the "cleaned" key and had no problems. I took the added step of using a can of compressed duster (like you might use on your PC keyboard) to blow out the ignition switch.

My recollection from reading the Service Manual is that there are 13 unique resistance values for the anti-theft interlock module so any one of the 13 may be the one on your vehicle. There is very little that should interfere with or cause the resistor itself to go bad. However, if it is somehow physically damaged from wear or other reason then you may have a problem. If you examine the resitor does it appear undamaged? Does it look like its contacts are clean and shiny? Do the contacts appear raised and un-damaged?

I am not sure how one would by-pass the interlock, although it sounds as if it's possible. I wouldn't want to by-pass anything but rather obtain the correct key, with the correct resistance. The dealer has a testing device that they plug into the ignition switch, it tells them the module's resistance (or rather the key number required). I wouldn't think it the expense of this would be too outrageous to ensure that my electrical system's integrity is maintained.

I had the same problem a couple years ago...follow the D.I.C. statement to "clean the key". Prior to trying the "cleaned" key I used my other (seldom used) key and it worked fine. Then I tried the "cleaned" key and had no problems. I took the added step of using a can of compressed duster (like you might use on your PC keyboard) to blow out the ignition switch.

My recollection from reading the Service Manual is that there are 13 unique resistance values for the anti-theft interlock module so any one of the 13 may be the one on your vehicle. There is very little that should interfere with or cause the resistor itself to go bad. However, if it is somehow physically damaged from wear or other reason then you may have a problem. If you examine the resitor does it appear undamaged? Does it look like its contacts are clean and shiny? Do the contacts appear raised and un-damaged?

I am not sure how one would by-pass the interlock, although it sounds as if it's possible. I wouldn't want to by-pass anything but rather obtain the correct key, with the correct resistance. The dealer has a testing device that they plug into the ignition switch, it tells them the module's resistance (or rather the key number required). I wouldn't think it the expense of this would be too outrageous to ensure that my electrical system's integrity is maintained.
These VATS systems have serious problems. The 2 biggest are the dirty keys and broken wires. Cleaning like what was stated may work if it is indeed dirty but not if the system is damaged. See, there are little 24 gauge wires that run up into the ignition switch. These wires have to move each and everytime you turn the ignition. Well, we all know what happens to wires that move too much, they snap or wear out. When they either break or ground out, the car will not start. An easy way to temporarily bypass the system is to turn the car on for 10min. and then it will start. Usually the next time you try to start it again, it will do the same. The only real fix is to replace the ignition switch. The permanet fix is to install the required resistor value in between the VATS wires going to the BCM. I guarentee that each and every GM car with VATS will eventually fail. Both of mine did!!! :banghead:

[QUOTE= The permanet fix is to install the required resistor value in between the VATS wires going to the BCM. I guarentee that each and every GM car with VATS will eventually fail. Both of mine did!!! :banghead:[/QUOTE]
Which is what car audio shops do. Sorry I didn't esplain...

i've found that if i put the key in the ignition in an upwards way and turn the two nobs on the side of the key instead of the actual keit it turns right over.....kinda weird..but it works every single time..before i started doing this it was making me wait 3 damn minutes everytime i tried to start it up.....

..side note...

think ima need a new muffler in a minute seems to be hanging down a bit....how much something like that gonna cost a poor college student..lol..

thanks in advance

It may not be the mufflers. Possibly just one of the hangers has gone bad. See if it can be put back in place.

If indeed you do need new mufflers, the OEM versions are very expensive. You might consider an aftermarket option. *coughMagnaflowcough*

hehe

Interesting how you got around the ignition problem ;)