3000GT ?'s before I buy
GreekPower
04-12-2004, 01:17 AM
Ok heres my dilema. I'm goin to be buying a 91-93 3000GT VR-4 mainly cuz i like that style the most.But my questions are is there any real reasons y i would wanna buy a 94-up besides the 6speed and the 20 more hp?and if so what are they?Also when I purchase my VR-4 i heard the first main upgrades i should get are an intake,downpipe, boost controller, boost gauges well what are the best and give me the most power gains?and if there is anything else tell me cuz i have some money to spend i know vr-4's reach 400hp easy but i want to make a 500hp daily driver.and also i know vr-4s have active aero well ive never seen what it looks like while active...does anyone have any pics that shows with and without active aero? cuz my friend tells me his wing looks like a terminator 2wing when active aero is on.but the final most important ? and only 2 more ?'s for this style with the flip up lights is there a kit that has the lights being shown all the time with out getting a whole custom front end to fit special lights in? but the final most important ? is does anyone live near pittsburgh,pa selling a 91-93 vr-4 wit moderate miles?cuz im willing to buy one for cash.please email me replies are ljadx14@yahoo.com or my aim is wellhungfor16.Thanks for ur help guys
Igovert500
04-12-2004, 01:14 PM
Hey, first off, welcome to the forum
So i did a search because I didn't feel like writing a novel in reply, and I found 2 posts that will probably answer every one of your questions
First is from talskinyguy
"Listing the differences.
93 has 4 bolt main, 91-92 does not
93 has forged connecting rods, 91-92 does not
93 has forged crankshaft, 91-92 does not
93 has forged steel inserts inside cast aluminum pistons, 91-92 does not
93 has forged steal 25 spline output shaft, 91-92 have a cast 18 spline.
93 has stronger internals in the transfer case, and is a different design than the 91-"
2nd is from IkOnone:
"91-93 is the first generation. pop up head lights, different side skirts and back bumper, hood has the little blisters, front bumper is different. this is what you will probably want given your price range. you can get one for $6000 and even a decent one if you look real hard but to avoid getting a lemon for that price you will probably have to go get it from somewhere else or have it shipped and either way it is costly and a pain to do (i have tried several times, it sucks buying long distance!) i would save up some more money and get a good 93 if i were you. the 93s have the 25 spline output shaft on the transmition and that is a big advantage, they also have the forged crank (i think) and maybe the 4 bolt main but i am really unsure about that. the 93 was the last year with the first generation body style but they allready had a lot of the upgrades in there. they also have the OBD I computer which is a big advantage if you want to datalog. they are also much cheaper, as soon as you get into the 2nd gen range the price jumps. if i were you i would find a good condition 93 near you and look to spend more in the $10k range.
94-98 this is the 2nd gen. this is also when they started to have non popups but i think they did switch the headlight style slightly in 96 as well. they had the same active aero wing as the first gens (very cool) until 97 or so when they switched to the hoop (looks too much like an eclipse for my taste but whatever). they had a lot of the better parts (crank, tranny, 4 bolt main, etc) but the 94s and i think the 95s had a hybrid OBD I/ OBD II computer and it was OBD II after that. these are a lot harder to datalog (if you even can). the thing about the 4 bolt main is that unless you have the fastest 3kgt in the world, the older 2 bolt main should be fine, the crank is a little more worrysome but not a huge deal if you do not put down a lot more power than stock, the tranny issue is big but they 93s (and some later 92s) have the 25 spline tranny as well. also the first gens have a 5 speed that is better geared for drag racing unless you are again one of the fastest in the world and you are hitting trap speads above 120mph. the 6 speed trannys in the second gens have a higher theoretical top speed though.
99 some call this year the 3rd gen. other than having better lifters i do not think there are any non cosmetic changes but these cars look sweet, aggressive rear wing and the smooth almost shelby cobra esq front end make this a car to drool over. they did not have active aero either (i think they stopped that in like 96 or 97). the sl and base 99s have the hoop spoiler though. there are also other small asthetic differences but i won't bother with those. you will not be able to afford one of these though so you will just have to drool with the rest of us.
these cars KILL on the street due to AWD. i do not know what that first guy was talking about but if you take one of these to a street race a lot of people will not even race you because you have a huge traction advantage. they are also very very stable at high speeds due to the active aero and the all wheel steering ( i think they dropped this around 96 as well). 160 in these cars feels like 75 in a camero SS, trust me, i have felt both. they are the heavyest of the japonese supercars but they are really only a few hundred pounds off from most of them, this could be the difference between a tank of gas and laying off the cheeseburgers. they are also so heavy because of all of the goodies likeactive aero, AWD and AWS add a lot of weight, and things like the 70lb driver's seat that has power sliding, power adjustable lumbar support, power side thingies, this seat is awesome but if you really care about making the car lighter, replace it with aftermarket seats, that is a huge weight savings right there. the whole interior of the car is really comfertable (not the seats in the back that are made for parapalegic midgets though) and the outside styleing is borderline exotic. the 2nd getns have 20 hp more but that is just a boost issue (11psi rather than 9 in the first gens) if you really care, get a boost controller for $18 and you will have a (safely) 355 hp car (14.5 psi). get an aftermarket boost guage thought because the stock one is useless and it is no fun to blow up an engine. if you really want to go cheep you can have a reliable 400 hp car for under $100 in modifications.
ok, ok these cars are not perfect though. the transmitions are a big problem but mostly because if yours breaks, mitsu does not have the parts to fix it so you have to buy a whole new tranny for $4k. well you can get the parts and fix it for a few hundred if you are smarter than the people at the mitsu dealership (not hard to do). also the stock shifter shifts like a freekin truck, especially in the first gens, not a very appealing aspect. also they do not have the prooven super high horsepower potentials of rival cars such as the supra, that is mostly because no one has gon that far with them yet though. stock ecu kind of sucks... when you start modding, these cars start getting knock real easy and are quite tempormantal. they are heavy but they are not really as heavy as everyone makes them out to be. just know that if you want to go into corners fast, this is not your car, go get an rx-7 or miata, this is the car that comes out of corners fast, the awd bites in and you take off. also they do not hold their value nearly as well as other similar cars unless you buy a first gen, those prices have somewhat leveled off. this is good if you want to buy but bad if you want to sell.
all in all, i love them. they are relatively cheap, you can get them faster than just about anything on the streets reliably and for cheap (they are damn fast stock too), they look way cooler imho than any other car short of a viper, they have AWD which is great in snow (i live in boulder so it is good for our winter weather), they are very strong cars which is good in the event that you get into a crash (very much unlike a rx-7 here as well), and they are really an all around good car. performance wise, they are kind of a jack of all trades, master of none. they handel well, they can go real fast in the 1/4 or top speed, but they are not the fastest at any. i hope this all helps and if you need further info check out www.3si.org or www.stealth316.com , these are the 3kgt owners best friends and the community of people in the 3kgt world are also a huge advantage for these cars. we have a great group here in colorado ----> www.co3s.org we do lots of fun stuff and everyone is very helpful if you need a hand with something, it is a lot of fun. hope you can join us some time even if you decide to get a poopra... err, i mean supra or something else "
Just one thing I noticed in the last post, I think he said 1st gens are set at 9psi, and 2nd gens at 11. I believe it is really 10psi and 12psi...respectively. But the same holds true, that difference in psi isn't important because witha boost controller you can turn either one up to 14.5psi.
I personally am a fan of the 96-98s the most, but to each his own.
When you do start modding, intake, downpipe, gut your precats, get a boost gauge and boost controller.
So as far as brands, John Monnin offers some great comparisons, so that you can choose for yourself:
intake comparison: http://monninengineering.com/Intakes.html
downpipe comparison:
http://monninengineering.com/Downpipe.html
boost controller comparison:
http://monninengineering.com/Boostcontrol.html
boost gauge...just get a nice aftermarket one that you can read easily.
Personally, I have the K&N FIPK intake I am getting the ATR downpipe, and I will get an electronic boost controller, but you may want something different, to each his own.
500hp daily driver is not impossible. Lots of people are planning on that, myself included. First off, www.stealth316.com is a very informative site, read everything you can there. www.3si.org is another forum like this, that has tons of knowledgable people, so check that out
www.3sxperformance.com has great prices on parts for our car
www.3kgt.com has some cool stuff
www.vr4stealth.com is another good site
I would read alot and research to get to know this car better.
but to get to 500hp, after you get intake, downpipe, boost controller,
you can get larger fuel injectors, a new fuel pump, larger turbos and an air/fuel controller and then really start putting out some big numbers. go to www.3si.com and click on "mods" they have a pretty good mod upgrade guide for both power and performance. The only thing that I don't agree with them is that they tell you to get an aftermarket catback so soon. teh vr4 stock catback is damn good, you really don't need to replace it that early on, unless you like the louder sound of an aftermarket one.
As far as finding one near pitt, check out www.autotrader.com, and 3si.org has a for sale forum as well. Good luck, hope this answered all your questions.
Here are your pics of active aero:
http://www.crhhome.com/Garage/aero.html
So i did a search because I didn't feel like writing a novel in reply, and I found 2 posts that will probably answer every one of your questions
First is from talskinyguy
"Listing the differences.
93 has 4 bolt main, 91-92 does not
93 has forged connecting rods, 91-92 does not
93 has forged crankshaft, 91-92 does not
93 has forged steel inserts inside cast aluminum pistons, 91-92 does not
93 has forged steal 25 spline output shaft, 91-92 have a cast 18 spline.
93 has stronger internals in the transfer case, and is a different design than the 91-"
2nd is from IkOnone:
"91-93 is the first generation. pop up head lights, different side skirts and back bumper, hood has the little blisters, front bumper is different. this is what you will probably want given your price range. you can get one for $6000 and even a decent one if you look real hard but to avoid getting a lemon for that price you will probably have to go get it from somewhere else or have it shipped and either way it is costly and a pain to do (i have tried several times, it sucks buying long distance!) i would save up some more money and get a good 93 if i were you. the 93s have the 25 spline output shaft on the transmition and that is a big advantage, they also have the forged crank (i think) and maybe the 4 bolt main but i am really unsure about that. the 93 was the last year with the first generation body style but they allready had a lot of the upgrades in there. they also have the OBD I computer which is a big advantage if you want to datalog. they are also much cheaper, as soon as you get into the 2nd gen range the price jumps. if i were you i would find a good condition 93 near you and look to spend more in the $10k range.
94-98 this is the 2nd gen. this is also when they started to have non popups but i think they did switch the headlight style slightly in 96 as well. they had the same active aero wing as the first gens (very cool) until 97 or so when they switched to the hoop (looks too much like an eclipse for my taste but whatever). they had a lot of the better parts (crank, tranny, 4 bolt main, etc) but the 94s and i think the 95s had a hybrid OBD I/ OBD II computer and it was OBD II after that. these are a lot harder to datalog (if you even can). the thing about the 4 bolt main is that unless you have the fastest 3kgt in the world, the older 2 bolt main should be fine, the crank is a little more worrysome but not a huge deal if you do not put down a lot more power than stock, the tranny issue is big but they 93s (and some later 92s) have the 25 spline tranny as well. also the first gens have a 5 speed that is better geared for drag racing unless you are again one of the fastest in the world and you are hitting trap speads above 120mph. the 6 speed trannys in the second gens have a higher theoretical top speed though.
99 some call this year the 3rd gen. other than having better lifters i do not think there are any non cosmetic changes but these cars look sweet, aggressive rear wing and the smooth almost shelby cobra esq front end make this a car to drool over. they did not have active aero either (i think they stopped that in like 96 or 97). the sl and base 99s have the hoop spoiler though. there are also other small asthetic differences but i won't bother with those. you will not be able to afford one of these though so you will just have to drool with the rest of us.
these cars KILL on the street due to AWD. i do not know what that first guy was talking about but if you take one of these to a street race a lot of people will not even race you because you have a huge traction advantage. they are also very very stable at high speeds due to the active aero and the all wheel steering ( i think they dropped this around 96 as well). 160 in these cars feels like 75 in a camero SS, trust me, i have felt both. they are the heavyest of the japonese supercars but they are really only a few hundred pounds off from most of them, this could be the difference between a tank of gas and laying off the cheeseburgers. they are also so heavy because of all of the goodies likeactive aero, AWD and AWS add a lot of weight, and things like the 70lb driver's seat that has power sliding, power adjustable lumbar support, power side thingies, this seat is awesome but if you really care about making the car lighter, replace it with aftermarket seats, that is a huge weight savings right there. the whole interior of the car is really comfertable (not the seats in the back that are made for parapalegic midgets though) and the outside styleing is borderline exotic. the 2nd getns have 20 hp more but that is just a boost issue (11psi rather than 9 in the first gens) if you really care, get a boost controller for $18 and you will have a (safely) 355 hp car (14.5 psi). get an aftermarket boost guage thought because the stock one is useless and it is no fun to blow up an engine. if you really want to go cheep you can have a reliable 400 hp car for under $100 in modifications.
ok, ok these cars are not perfect though. the transmitions are a big problem but mostly because if yours breaks, mitsu does not have the parts to fix it so you have to buy a whole new tranny for $4k. well you can get the parts and fix it for a few hundred if you are smarter than the people at the mitsu dealership (not hard to do). also the stock shifter shifts like a freekin truck, especially in the first gens, not a very appealing aspect. also they do not have the prooven super high horsepower potentials of rival cars such as the supra, that is mostly because no one has gon that far with them yet though. stock ecu kind of sucks... when you start modding, these cars start getting knock real easy and are quite tempormantal. they are heavy but they are not really as heavy as everyone makes them out to be. just know that if you want to go into corners fast, this is not your car, go get an rx-7 or miata, this is the car that comes out of corners fast, the awd bites in and you take off. also they do not hold their value nearly as well as other similar cars unless you buy a first gen, those prices have somewhat leveled off. this is good if you want to buy but bad if you want to sell.
all in all, i love them. they are relatively cheap, you can get them faster than just about anything on the streets reliably and for cheap (they are damn fast stock too), they look way cooler imho than any other car short of a viper, they have AWD which is great in snow (i live in boulder so it is good for our winter weather), they are very strong cars which is good in the event that you get into a crash (very much unlike a rx-7 here as well), and they are really an all around good car. performance wise, they are kind of a jack of all trades, master of none. they handel well, they can go real fast in the 1/4 or top speed, but they are not the fastest at any. i hope this all helps and if you need further info check out www.3si.org or www.stealth316.com , these are the 3kgt owners best friends and the community of people in the 3kgt world are also a huge advantage for these cars. we have a great group here in colorado ----> www.co3s.org we do lots of fun stuff and everyone is very helpful if you need a hand with something, it is a lot of fun. hope you can join us some time even if you decide to get a poopra... err, i mean supra or something else "
Just one thing I noticed in the last post, I think he said 1st gens are set at 9psi, and 2nd gens at 11. I believe it is really 10psi and 12psi...respectively. But the same holds true, that difference in psi isn't important because witha boost controller you can turn either one up to 14.5psi.
I personally am a fan of the 96-98s the most, but to each his own.
When you do start modding, intake, downpipe, gut your precats, get a boost gauge and boost controller.
So as far as brands, John Monnin offers some great comparisons, so that you can choose for yourself:
intake comparison: http://monninengineering.com/Intakes.html
downpipe comparison:
http://monninengineering.com/Downpipe.html
boost controller comparison:
http://monninengineering.com/Boostcontrol.html
boost gauge...just get a nice aftermarket one that you can read easily.
Personally, I have the K&N FIPK intake I am getting the ATR downpipe, and I will get an electronic boost controller, but you may want something different, to each his own.
500hp daily driver is not impossible. Lots of people are planning on that, myself included. First off, www.stealth316.com is a very informative site, read everything you can there. www.3si.org is another forum like this, that has tons of knowledgable people, so check that out
www.3sxperformance.com has great prices on parts for our car
www.3kgt.com has some cool stuff
www.vr4stealth.com is another good site
I would read alot and research to get to know this car better.
but to get to 500hp, after you get intake, downpipe, boost controller,
you can get larger fuel injectors, a new fuel pump, larger turbos and an air/fuel controller and then really start putting out some big numbers. go to www.3si.com and click on "mods" they have a pretty good mod upgrade guide for both power and performance. The only thing that I don't agree with them is that they tell you to get an aftermarket catback so soon. teh vr4 stock catback is damn good, you really don't need to replace it that early on, unless you like the louder sound of an aftermarket one.
As far as finding one near pitt, check out www.autotrader.com, and 3si.org has a for sale forum as well. Good luck, hope this answered all your questions.
Here are your pics of active aero:
http://www.crhhome.com/Garage/aero.html
GreekPower
04-12-2004, 02:23 PM
jesus man u helped me out alot thanks now im gonna get a 93 vr4 and start modding it the day i get it. But anyone have any ideas on what insurance will be for a 17 with no acciedents in pa?
sLADe781
04-12-2004, 02:47 PM
jesus man u helped me out alot thanks now im gonna get a 93 vr4 and start modding it the day i get it. But anyone have any ideas on what insurance will be for a 17 with no acciedents in pa?
Umm...A LOT!!!
Umm...A LOT!!!
Igovert500
04-12-2004, 05:01 PM
yeah, Alot. When I got it with a clean record at 20, it cost me close to 5 grand, after alot of deductions I got it down to 3 grand a year. Take defensive driving, get your VIN etched into the window, get good grades and show them your report card, get a good alarm, pay in 6 month increments, not month by month. Just ask your agent how to get discounts.
Teazrsnow
04-14-2004, 06:02 PM
umm where do you have the cash for a vr-4 just laying around?
GreekPower
04-14-2004, 07:00 PM
dude ive had cars since i was 14 and i have been buying and selling even now i have a couple of cars.but my just want a vr4 now so thats what i will get if i can find one.the only one i found that was good was on ebay but its in seattle,washington which is to damn far.
BreakerZero0
04-23-2004, 07:53 PM
Which Model is the best to get?
GreekPower
04-23-2004, 08:45 PM
get a vr4 there the best twin turbo awd, aws and active aero plus its 300hp/307 torque which means ur damn fast stock
Teazrsnow
04-23-2004, 09:37 PM
stealth r/t TT is cheaper and is exactly the same as the vr-4 - the aws and active aero but that is also saved weight
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